Gears & Axles - Potential with a 4.10 gear?

I know this question is really vague, and it all depends on traction, and driver ect. But through a guess out at me. I have a 98 Trans Am.

The car is a ls1 t56.

Mods are

Slp Lid
K&N Filter
Ws6 Air Box
Vfn Functional Ws6 Style Hood
Flowmaster Exhuast
Centerforce DFX Clutch
Hotckis Springs
Bilstein HD Struts.

The car ran a 13.6 at 105 with this setup. Since i got the car, i have added Ported Tb, Pacesetter longtubes to a td 3 inch exhuast dumped at rear end, Slp Smoother Bellows, and The next to mods will be an ls6 intake manifold, and probably a 4.10 gear

With a 4.10 and more or less a full bolt on car what kind of times could the car run if it has a good driver and hooks up. Sorry for the super vague questions ive tried to search about 4.10's but search doesn't seem to work. Im trying to decide if going with the 4.10's in a manual car is really worth it, and if it will make the car noticable faster. The headers, PTB, and SLP Belllows have really made a differeance in the car and i wouldn't be suppirsed it if ran a low 13 now.

Thanks, Chris

im glad and almost supprised to hear the bellow gave you a noticeable difference haha but 4.10s will really wake up your car and put you in the back of the seat. but why would 4.10s in a manual car not be worth it, i mean would you rather have it in auto

they will drop you 2 tenths with a good launch and good shifts.

4.10 would make an awesome difference !!! Let me know where you live cuz I have one 10 bolt rear end with the 4.10 gears already mounted...
So let me know. I'm located in miami.

im glad and almost supprised to hear the bellow gave you a noticeable difference haha but 4.10s will really wake up your car and put you in the back of the seat. but why would 4.10s in a manual car not be worth it, i mean would you rather have it in auto

Sorry for the confusion, i said the ported tb, bellows, and long tube headers together have given a noticeable difference.

The reason i was hesitant on the 4.10's, im not even really hesitant, as much as confused. I read the sticky on the gear swaps, and someone was stating if you have a good stall in an auto car gears dont really make a big difference, if at all. Im really hoping for more then .2 tenths of a second with a 4.10 gear. With full bolt on's intake manifold, longtubes, td exhuast, tb, maf, lid, filter, 4.10's and a tune id hope to be a mid 12's range. The car will be getting a cam and heads of some sort over the winter, but i bought it like 2 weeks ago, and have already done full bolt ons, and want to drive the car as long as i can, and then store it for the winter and do the cam and heads. Anyways, thanks for the info. Chris

4.10 would make an awesome difference !!! Let me know where you live cuz I have one 10 bolt rear end with the 4.10 gears already mounted...
So let me know. I'm located in miami.

Im near chicago. Shipping would be way more then i would want to spend otherwise i might be interested in an extra 10 bolt. Thanks though. Chris

Sorry for the confusion, i said the ported tb, bellows, and long tube headers together have given a noticeable difference.

The reason i was hesitant on the 4.10's, im not even really hesitant, as much as confused. I read the sticky on the gear swaps, and someone was stating if you have a good stall in an auto car gears dont really make a big difference, if at all. Im really hoping for more then .2 tenths of a second with a 4.10 gear. With full bolt on's intake manifold, longtubes, td exhuast, tb, maf, lid, filter, 4.10's and a tune id hope to be a mid 12's range. The car will be getting a cam and heads of some sort over the winter, but i bought it like 2 weeks ago, and have already done full bolt ons, and want to drive the car as long as i can, and then store it for the winter and do the cam and heads. Anyways, thanks for the info. Chris
Yes is is very worth it. You will notice a huge difference.

I have a friend that runs 12.3's with basically the same car as yours on MT DR's.

just make sure you include some DR's with your 4.10's. 2.5 60' times suck

even if you have a 6spd

your daily drivability will suffer from the hi gher gear ratio despite what people say

stick with the gear god gave ya!!!! and make horsepower!

even if you have a 6spd

your daily drivability will suffer from the hi gher gear ratio despite what people say

stick with the gear god gave ya!!!! and make horsepower!

The car is not a daily driver. I have an acura cl for that. I drive it around town, maybe to the store, or when im running around with the gf. M-f all the commuting and rush hour traffic is all done in the acura. Thanks everyone for there advice. Chris

I know this question is really vague, and it all depends on traction, and driver ect. But through a guess out at me. I have a 98 Trans Am.

The car is a ls1 t56.

Mods are

Slp Lid
K&N Filter
Ws6 Air Box
Vfn Functional Ws6 Style Hood
Flowmaster Exhuast
Centerforce DFX Clutch
Hotckis Springs
Bilstein HD Struts.

The car ran a 13.6 at 105 with this setup. Since i got the car, i have added Ported Tb, Pacesetter longtubes to a td 3 inch exhuast dumped at rear end, Slp Smoother Bellows, and The next to mods will be an ls6 intake manifold, and probably a 4.10 gear

With a 4.10 and more or less a full bolt on car what kind of times could the car run if it has a good driver and hooks up. Sorry for the super vague questions ive tried to search about 4.10's but search doesn't seem to work. Im trying to decide if going with the 4.10's in a manual car is really worth it, and if it will make the car noticable faster. The headers, PTB, and SLP Belllows have really made a differeance in the car and i wouldn't be suppirsed it if ran a low 13 now.



Thanks, Chris

the car will be in the 12s i promise, i got the same car even down to the color, and it FELT COMPLETLY differnet with the 4.10s

I ran my 12.9 @ 110mph with a 2.05 60ft on street tires and that was with the stock 3.42's and no lid at the time. You have more mods than I have now so I say with my sixty or a 1.9x your car has 12.6 or 12.7 like lightemup said...

Josh

The person i bought the car from ran the 13.6, so im not sure if i will be a better driver, worse driver or what. I like to think i can drive pretty good so only time will tell. I want to get this car to the track pretty bad. Id love to be low 12's without a cam or heads. Even better would be to whack my buddies 01 z06 with bolt ons, but thats a little ways off still. Thanks Guys.

I ran my 12.9 @ 110mph with a 2.05 60ft on street tires and that was with the stock 3.42's and no lid at the time. You have more mods than I have now so I say with my sixty or a 1.9x your car has 12.6 or 12.7 like lightemup said...

Josh

Screw stock gears, they suck. 4.10's They kick ass! I actually get better mileage now with 4.10's,. ANd yes I reprogrammed the pcm. I got 29.6mpg the first highway trip with the 4.10's. T tops out too. And it's just badass how easily it will lite the rear tires up

You have a higher potential to break your rear.

Really though, with traction and such you should see .2, maybe more. YTour shifts are going to come up fast, so I hope you are ready. For a M6 you might be better off with a 3.73, although it isnt much different than stock.

well i dont think a 13.6 is a very good time at all with those previous mods. An LS1 trans am with a 6 speed can easily run a 13.2-13.4. I got a 13 flat outta mine with just and intake and loud mouth 2 exhaust. If you drive it right, youll definately be comfortably in the mid 12s after the gears and everything else. hell, these cars can get into the high 12s with JUST the intake and full exhaust.

even if you have a 6spd

your daily drivability will suffer from the hi gher gear ratio despite what people say

stick with the gear god gave ya!!!! and make horsepower!

What makes you say this? I had an auto w/ 3.73 and daily drove it all throughout highschool with zero drivabililty issues. Not trying to start nothin but it just makes sense that rear gear ratio would have no effect on drivability whatsoever (until the pinion stripped at the track) but thats the weak 10 bolts fault not the gears. IMO gears only effect driveability as far as mpg and what rpm you turn on the highway.


i gained a full half second going from 2.73-3.73 in my old z on the same crappy tires both times. In an m6 id expect about the same maybe a little less (not as drastic of a drop). I now have 4.11's in my SS and i love them, at 70 mph i am just under 2000 in 6th. Thats a whole lot better than the 60's cars did it, they didnt have overdrive and still ran 4.11 no problems (except mpg)

When I put the 4.10s in, I actually lost power but with how much shorter the gears are goes a long way. Granted it was only a 5-7hp loss at thw wheel. I raced my buddy's Z06 after the swap and ate him up pretty damn bad. I'd say go for it, I ran 12.7 @ 111 with 4.10s on street tires.

well i dont think a 13.6 is a very good time at all with those previous mods. An LS1 trans am with a 6 speed can easily run a 13.2-13.4. I got a 13 flat outta mine with just and intake and loud mouth 2 exhaust. If you drive it right, youll definately be comfortably in the mid 12s after the gears and everything else. hell, these cars can get into the high 12s with JUST the intake and full exhaust.

When i bought the car it only had the clutch, suspension, lid, k&N, and crappy flowmaster. Ive added longtubes, ptb, smooth bellows. And ls6 intake manifold, and 4.10 gears will be done soon, and then probably a tune. Again i dont know what kind of tire, or how hard the car was drivem to hit the 13.6 time, but its on a decent street tire now, that seems to hook ok, so we will see. Thanks everyone. Chris