TS6

iTrader: (41)

Just thinking about it for now, but since I have the engine, space, and fuel system to handle a larger blower it seems like an easy way to up the power. I run only pump gas, 93 octane, and do have a meth kit but don't rely on it. I just use it as a safegaurd, I could turn it off and run safely on my tune. As it is I only have it on the lowest possible setting, it has barely changed the AFR maybe .1 or .2.

So just running pump gas, what kind of gains would I see making the switch? My current setup dyno'd 730 RWHP, 13-14 psi. I'd really like to claim 1000 crank horsepower, its always been a goal of mine. Right now those numbers are through a 4L60E and 12 bolt with big MT's. I figure I'm making in the neighborhood of 825 HP at the crank. I also have the "little blue pill" (spray), but I do love the way an F1 blower sounds. Just evil.......

Drewstein

I would like to know this too.

And why not go with an F1-R?

HUNTER02SS

iTrader: (24)

Maybe KP will chime in. He run's both blower's at the track.Which one depend's on the weather.He can tell the pro's and con's!

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

your bigger blower will not like a FMIC in hot weather... you'll need race gas more than likely... whats your CR right now? what heads are you using?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

It depends on how much boost you want to run. The D-1SC typically maxes out for us around 16 psi on larger cubic inch engines. The F1A is merely at a job at 16 psi and is ready for more boost. If you engine combo can handle 18 psi of boost (or more) you should see your 1000 hp without a problem. I would run Torco octane booster as a safeguard with your 93 octane, and monitor knock. Bob

kp

iTrader: (34)

My experience with the F1A so far is it will make quite a bit more boost then the D1, the D1 maxed out is about the same as the F1A 10k under max.

Thats the good news.

The bad news it even at 10K under max (7.25/4.25) its still hotter then the D1 maxed out. After staring at the boost graphs between the two the D1 maxed will have a bigger 'hit' in the midrange though until I pulley up the F1A to 7.25/4 but then the IAts really go up.

But the biggest issuie I'm having is with belt slip, the F1A with 7.25/4 is slipping pretty bad in 1st gear, it catches up in 2nd and 3rd so for most people on the street or dyno racing it will be just fine and wouldnt be noticed. Most guys dont accelerate in 1st gear as hard as I do and its pretty obvious by a cup full of belt dust after 10 passes and looking at the logs its slipping. OTOH the D1SC doesnt slip at all maxed out with a 7.25/3.4 so obviously the F1A is taking more power to drive.

Either way you are limited by the amount of air either can flow, bigger engine and bigger power goals need a bigger blower. Problem is bigger bowers take more HP to turn and make more heat so you have to deal with that, no free ride.

With the SDCE you are limited in pulley size so if you went with an F1R a 4.25 blower pulley is about the biggest that would fit and that will give you all the boost you want plus the bigger pulley would help with the slippage. I'd like to maybe try an F1R but unfortunately two head units is all I can afford rght now

Drewstein

What about the F1-C, same belt slip issues?

In this case why not keep the D1 and run a 100shot instead? The cooling effect would be huge too.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Could the heating issues with the F1 be eliminated with the use of meth?

kp

iTrader: (34)

I'm perfectly happy what my car runs with the D1 (or the F1A) without a 100 shot, so why bother. But nitrous works well and its a viable option for picking up more power if you can control it well.

The F1A works as I expected it would, F1C may be better but an F1C moves a lot more air then a F1A so I dont know how the drive will handle it.

The F1A on my car with the 4.25 pulley is probably the best way to go overall but the D1 maxed is quieter and hits harder off the line so until fall comes I'll just leave the D1 on. If I had a big cammed/low compression 408 or something I wouldnt hesitate to try an F1A if you have the money. F1R/C is gettig up there pretty good in blower size. I would go one step at a time.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

you say belt slip is a large issue right now at the starting line?
is there a BP size limit on the stock tensioner?
i'd like to try a 4.5-4.75 with a larger CP to compensate

i'm gonna call danny miller at rear gears to get him to see if he will make me a 4 series 3.50 gear here soon... it will be more fun on the street now and will cooperate easier at the strip later on when it's making more power... a higher ratio gear may help your 1st gear belt slip since you moving out @ a 1.28-1.30 60'

would you be interrested in a higher ratio gear that will fit a 4 series spool? or maybe a 3 series spool?
J/W

i think that the power steering is causing belt slip... you need to get rid of that

keep us updated on your runs (like you always do )

kp

iTrader: (34)

8 rib is just only going to handle so much no matter what you do. These things are pretty dynamic so your results may very, only way to find out is to try and see for yourself.

I have a 9" so I can get a 3.50 pretty easy, I like the gearing right where it is though with the 3.70 - works for me.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

What about a cog drive or 12 rib setup?

kp

iTrader: (34)

Sure, you can do it anything with custom brackets/pulleys. Just like anything else it all depends how much money, time and effort to want to spend to achieve your goals.

As of now there is no simple bolt on cog or 12 rib LSx setup out there that works well that I'm aware of, could be out there somewhere but I havent seen one.

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

I havent seen one either (cog/12-rib) but that would be a big time help in eliminating slip.
It almost seems you'd have to own a Stang in order to get things like that lol.

98transguy

iTrader: (7)

i was looking at the ati performance web site and found this under

Supercharger Conversion Kits for Chevy LS Engines


"ATI Performance Products, Inc. is proud to introduce a line of supercharger conversion kits for the ATI Super DamperŽ. If you are making more than 8 lbs. of boost and have belt slip problems, ATI has the fix for your LS-X based engine. ATI is now offering 8, 10 and 12 rib kits and even an HTD cog drive blower driver kit for your Super Damper and all of the accessory drives! Stop worrying about belt tensioners holding up and small belts pulling their weight. If you need to make real boost, then check out the supercharger drive kits from ATI Performance Products. "

Dubnali

LOL your not kidding, I built a 4.6L 32v engine and had an F-2 w/ cog setup back in 2002!!!

kp

iTrader: (34)

Cool, try it out and let me know how it works

The pulleys have been avaiable for years from several sources, several have tried using the ATI brackets with little luck. Anything can be made to work, just depends how much time and money you want to spend (I've heard that somewhere before). At 50.00 a belt things get real expensive real fast if it doesnt work

I'm not trying to discourage anyone from doing a cog or 12 rib, its just not as easy as it appears.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

im pretty sure the guys from dezracing have some tricks or secrets... they have a long list of big procharged guys in lsx cars.... but they tend to not post much about there little secrets...

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

hmmm... i thought you had a 12bolt in that thing... ah hell.... the first few things i did to the car are now kicking my ***..... slp headers and a 12 bolt

kp

iTrader: (34)

Hard to beat physics with secrets lol, an 8 rib is just going to drive so much HP and thats it. I'm sure with a reichard 4" pulley on the F1A it would work for me, but also TS6 may just be able to bolt an F1A on with the 4" or 3.7" pulley on his SDCE and never have an issue for what he is using it for.

Sometimes you just have to shut off the computer and spend the money on what you feel will work for you. Personally I have no desire to make any more power, making the power is the easy part..