JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

So i was searching for one of those husky air/oil separators for my PCV line and stumbled upon this:




Its a larger version of the husky oil sep. It has two 3/8" openings. One inlet and one outlet. The canister easily disconnects but it still has a peacock valve on the bottom. So do you guys think this one would work as a regular catch can?

Here is how my PCV is setup:
-TB is plugged
-Intake > Mini Oil Sep > PCV > Check Valve > Pass. Rear Valve Port
-Front Pass valve cover and Driver side rear port merge together with a "T" hose barb and fit into the bigger husky unit which has a breather on the other port.

Heres my question:
-will that PCV setup work?
-is it ok having the 2 lines merge
-how big of a breather do I need on the husky unit because my 3" filter is a bit big.

so watcha think for $20?

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

that setup looks good, and a big money saver!! i was debating on merging the two valvecover ports into one line that goes to the catchcan, but i figured 2 lines would flow more than 1, so I added the other one just because. i dont see why your setup wouldnt work though... its pretty similar to mine, and mine is working good so far!

one question...

which check valve are you using between the front valvecover port and the intake manifold? i am thinking of going that route instead of dealing with the STS switch to block the boost from entering the crankcase

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

I used something similar on my Cobra and it worked great!

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

I can't say it won't work, but make sure it can handle everything a car will throw at it, like high temps, large temp swings, vibration, getting washed, etc. before you use it. If it will handle all that, the piece looks like it will do the job.

If it fails - fire potential. Those are the stakes.

Jim

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

I tried something similar several years ago: An air compressor air/oil separator. The engine oil and evironment ate it alive within a few weeks.

Not saying yours won't work, but mine was toast in a relatively short time.

6techniques

iTrader: (7)

After thinking about it, the one I ran had a metal body w/ a glass tube...and those temps can get high so MAKE SURE that if its plastic, it will be able to handle the temps thrown at it. I ran mine on a 03 Cobra for months w/o any problems what so ever.

Sabre_Logos

I am using the same Husky oil/water separator on my car.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

What kind of car is that looks like a Nissan? I know i have used ome small plastic ones like this to find out where oil was coming from never more than a few weeks though I don't think it will be a problem as long as you keep them away from the exhaust or other extremely hot things. Most are designed to hold oil that might escape from the compressors.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

sabre logos thats a nice looking install. Where is the outlet port running to off the can?

What do you guys think about things like T'ing the lines into the can and running the breather on the other side of it? Do I really need a big 2.5-3" breather or will a mini one work?

This is really pretty temporary (as in a week or two) because I'm working on machining my own can at home but I need something by next tuesday because the car will be up and running and getting tuned out of town.

Im also mounting it next to the battery away from most of the hot stuff. Hopefully this will work.

part # 7775k52 Brass Spring-Loaded Piston Check Valve 1/4" Nptf Dryseal Female Connections, Viton Seat

from mcmaster carr. Im going to mount everything in this order:
coming off intake manifold > oil sep > PCV > check valve > to rear pass port
do i really need that oil sep? seems like boost or vacuum would suck that oil. Do the STS "switches" have built in oil seperators?

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well I really don't understand exactly how you are saying you are going to install it probably cause I am working night and I am Really tired, but I ran mine from the intake to the check valve and from the check valve to the catch can so that it pulls a vacum under non boost conditions and then the valve keeps the boost from blowing into the crank case. And I installed a single breather worked well and kept the oil out of the intake of course I think the best way is to have it hooked up to the intake of the turbo so that it pulls a vacum under boost conditions. Good luck I am sure you will figure out what works best for you.
Jeff

Sabre_Logos

Inspector12, the car is my 94 Infiniti Q45 that is now packing a T76 Thumper. I've got a write up on my site but I don't know if it is cool to post the link on here so I'll just show you guys the pics. I installed the catch can on the fresh air intake hose for the original PCV intake.

From the catch can, the hose goes to the air filter. When the car is not in boost, the air will be drawn towards the engine thru the catch can and air filter. Under boost, the system operates in the other direction and any blow-by will be sucked in by the turbo thru the catch can.



This is the plastic hose barb that was installed on the filter.




A hole was drilled on the air filter and the plastic fitting glued on.








I ran a hose from the drain so that I don't have to remove the bottom of the catch can to empty it.




You can see the drain valve on the air/water separator in this pic.

Sabre_Logos

If you could run the outlet to the turbo inlet, then you'd be set. The turbo will provide the necessary vacuum to keep crankcase pressure down under boost, plus you wouldn't have to smell the fumes. Even though your system is a rear mount, I think that it can still be done this way.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

thanks for all the info. I can try to run a line back to the turbo for the vacuum.

kaos_

iTrader: (12)

i used to use a homemade one from home depot using those parts. it worked well but not as well as one of those custom catch cans you can buy.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

That explaines it Infinity and Nissan are basicly the same co.. I just reconized a few things. Is the 76 on the 3.5L or what? Looks good anyways.

Sabre_Logos

Yeah, under the hood Nissans and Infinitis are going to look the same depending on the platform. My Q45 has the VH45DE engine, which is a 4.5 liter DOHC V-8, produced from 90-96. It's a bit small on displacement but it is way overbuilt for it's job of pulling around a 2 ton luxury car. The bottom end is forged except for the pistons so it seemed like a good candidate for a turbo project. It also comes with 6 bolt mains like the LSx and has a ladder frame that connects all the main caps together.

Here are some pics:

VH45DE block with aftermarket sleeves bored out to 98mm. Not mine, belongs to gearhead in the UK.



Pentroof combustion chamber



Here's description from Road & Track's Guide to the Q45. Remember that this engine was designed somewhere in the late 80's and showed up in the first gen Q45 in the fall of 89.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Not sure if it was mentioned, but please note that the valve on the bottom will NOT hold vacuum. It has to be blocked off. I have been running this setup on my car for a little over a month with great results. The brass element seems to be much better (I use the Lowe's version).

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the tip. What do you mean brass element and is the lowes version any different? who makes it?

OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

I have been following just about all the PCV threads trying to decide on the best set up for my vehicle, and still have a question about the routing of the hoses.

If you ran with the Husky way, how would you route the hoses from the back of the D/S valve cover, front pass. valve cover, intake, and TB. I know on almost all set ups you want to block the TB off. I've heard that using a T to connect the D/S rear cover and the P/S front together doesn't allow max. flow.

OreoLt1

iTrader: (11)

n-e one else have any input?