Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Well we pulled one header off last night and it was bad, exhaust had blown past it almost everyplace and it was totally destroyed, also put in the 13.9psi springs, so there is still one leaking header gasket left.

Took the car out for a test drive and it jumped up to 9psi on the gauge fast, before it would only go to 7 and even that took too long, so tonight I will fix the other header and we are hoping for a full 13psi

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Exhaust leak.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/741083-still-cant-make-boost.html

RW99

Good luck... always nice if gaskets are all that's required!

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

no doubt...ill take that low buck fix any day!! When mine is low boost its usually cause its missing a piston and/or valves

mahhddgtp

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

nice!! i solved my boost leak dilemma and then ended up with an oil problem...

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I had the same problem with my old setup...

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

The other gasket was leaking bad on 2 and a little on 1 other, seems to be fixed now but I've only made one test pass.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Ha Ha! You nailed it right off the bat LOL! Good call! Glad you got your boost issue fixed.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Its not fixed, it makes a little more boost now but the gates won't open.

But we have a few theories as to what the problem is.

1: Too low comp ratio (7.9:1) and too little timing (18deg in boost)
2: Bad coil packs
3: Overall timing is off or timing is walking, I'm not logging cam sync errors though so this is not likely from what I understand

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

i had quicksilverado running only 12 deg of timing with his 7.9 c/r 370....no probs with boost and that was an sts

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

On my current setup I found a major boost leak around my BOV's. My car felt way down on power and my Blitz Boost Gauge was still reading I was getting good boost via the recording, but it was coming on slow. Turned the boost gauge completely off and noticed I was getting 10psi of boost but it was stressing to make that. We put the car on the dyno and realized I was down by almost 200rwhp. Pulled the car off the dyno and put the car up on a lift to see if we could find a visual break in one of the hoses or lines. We did not see anything. Decided to pressurize the system and wallah. The air was blowing out of the BOV's. I replaced them with the recommended ones per my tuner in Michigan and put the car back on the dyno and picked up my missing rwhp.. Now I am back to troubleshooting my possible valvefloat issue..

kp

iTrader: (34)

Simple enough to log cam syc errors, make sure and double check your timing mark is correct and use a different light to verify. Most cars I have seen have the crank reference around 350*

Cam sync error is like a rev limiter, the engine just stops at whatever rpm. If you suspect that turn it off in the config menu and seee what happens.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

The car revs high as I want, and there are no boost leaks as we have pressurized the intake pipes to 40psi and they hold pressure.

We have used a timing light to verify the timing, but not under load. Might have to put it on a dyno and check that

kp

iTrader: (34)

Make sure the TDC mark is correct, if you didnt do it with the heads off its easy to be off with a TDC stop.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

We figured it out with the spark plug out on #1

kp

iTrader: (34)

I would still double check it, even with a stop you can be off. What did you get for crank reference?

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

I think its 340 or 345, would have to be at the car to check for sure.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Yep definitely double-check TDC. We did ours a bunch of times just to be 110% certain.