MCBRIZ28

iTrader: (2)

I have started to port my TB but have not decided on filling in iac hole not sure which epoxy or filler to use have heard of some types falling out any help would be very helpful.

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

I was planning on using Devcon Aluminum Epoxy. Available at WW Grainger. I saw a post on here a while back where someone had used plumbers putty. I dont think that would be a good idea. I have used Devcon in the past for filling holes and large areas in aluminum plates and have never experienced any of it falling out. It actually seemed tougher than the aluminum it was filling. These plates never see heat cycling, so now I am wondering what material was used that had fallen out. Have you done a search?

DaleMX

iTrader: (4)

By the way, JB weld seems alot like Devcon.

TaTommyWS6

I used aluminum epoxy also. Seems to work great.

http://www.tatommy.com/homeporttb.JPG

Tommy

TheDogofWar

iTrader: (2)

Thats what I used about 6 months ago. NP!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

JB Weld has been in for at least 6 months now.

The goo doesn't matter as much as adhesion does,
and that means texture and cleanliness. Scuff up
everything you can where the epoxy is to mate,
clean it triple-good with acetone, and build it
up patiently - work the walls until you see 100%
"wetting", make her want it, know what I'm saying?
It helps (or adds luck, however you look at it) to
have the epoxy go around corners to have a hard
mechanical "keep" too. I made little foil dams to
just barely keep the epoxy off finished seats but
fill as much as possible. Sealed these with just
a bit of JB, let them cure, then it's a leak-tight
seal that won't let any by.

Since JB slumps a lot I took like 8 layers to get
mine built up proud to the surface, with a bake
in the kitchen oven to accelerate cure I got 2
layers a night with good tack left for the next
"pour". The appeal of the hard putty is that you
just squish it in there and let it cure 'til
tomorrow. But you still have to make it stick.

TaTommyWS6

Like I said above, I used aluminum epoxy. It took 10 mintues to harden, only needed one application (not multiple layers), and I was able to drill my holes in 30 minutes.

Took less than hour start to finish...

Tommy

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

i hope my JB weld works. i did it tonight.

HOSS99

Are there any writeups "How to Port TB". Is material actually being removed or is just being polished? If material is being removed, How is it being measured? Just by feel? Smoothness?. I'm interested in porting my own. Any tips would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Old SStroker

BAUER, a sponsor, has some description of the amount of material removed in porting. Click on logo at the right.

Also try this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...o=&fpart=1

Those who port for $ probably won't specify what they use, however.

whitez71

I used some JB weld putty in a tube. You just knead it and stick it on. Worked fine. It was hard in about an hour.

Mordecai

iTrader: (1)

This ought to help, TB port found it on LS1Howto.com

gwj

I used plain old epoxy about 10 months/12K miles back. I would recommend something more along the lines of Devcon, though, as regular epoxy is a messy bitc$ to work with, and will likely take at least two applications to apply (due to the circular surface of the TB).Whatever you use, I would rough up the surface a little with some semi-coarse grit sandpaper or sanding drum.
Expect to have at least 2 days downtime or more and take your time. I found re-drilling the IAC inlet to roughly 3/8" worked best -for me- for a smoother idle. The bypass hole (pcv?) needn't be as large. That's all I can think of after a 12 1/2 hr shift.
Oh yeah, clay can be used to fill the IAC passage section that you may not want to fill, or you can fill up to the IAC stepper seat and drill through to your inlet hole.

HOSS99

Thanks for the info.

TaTommyWS6

No flames, but you should be done in about an hour maybe two, even with taking your time...

Aluminum expoxy is REALLY easy to work with.

Tommy