1998 Z28 NBM M6 (Bolt on 12 Second Car)
07-11-2007, 10:40 PM
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1998 Z28 NBM M6 (Bolt on 12 Second Car) Well I've got a few things that I need to take care of right now so I've decided to put my car up for sale. The car has every option possible other than ttops. I have owned the car for about 1 1/2 years now and it has been a blast every single day. I am the second owner and bought the car out of Grand Prairie, Texas. The car has never been involved in an accident and I have the CarFax from the day I bought it available to scan for whoever would like to see it. I have all receipts for any work and any parts bought during my ownership also. The interior and exterior are in great shape. On 1-10 scales, I would rate the exterior at and 8/10 and the interior at a 9/10. It of course has typical hood chips on the front clip and hood that any daily driven fbody will accumulate. The car currently has 106,000 miles. It is located in College Station/Bryan. The car has a decent amount of bolt on mods and has a ran 12.9 @ 110.65 before I added the SLP lid. This was on street tires with a 2.05 60 so with a 1.9x 60ft, the lid, and if you put a good tune on it I have no doubt you would have 12.7 atleast all day long. Here is a basic breakdown on what mods appearance and performance are done to the car as well as maintainence that I have down throughout my ownership.
Appearance Modifications:
Black Halo Headlights
Clear Corners
Hooker 3” Dual Dual Exhaust Tips
License Plate and Fascia Removal
Chrome Z28 Overlays
Chrome T/A Wheels
Berger Panel Mod (Gloss Black)
Slp Logo
Camaor Rear Insert
Performance Modifications:
Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler
TB Coolant Bypass
Ram Air Box Cutout
SLP Air Lid
K & N Air Filter
NGK Tr55 Spark Plugs
MSD 8.5MM Plug Wires
PaceSetter LT’s w/ ORY Pipe
Poly Trans Mount
Poly T/A Mount
Built T56
Poly Motor Mounts
Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Wagner Clutch Master Cylinder
Walbro In-Tank 255lph Fuel Pump
Maintenance:
Oil Changes w/ Mobile 1 every 3,000 miles
(The filter has been swapped every 1,500 miles since 97k.)
Trans Fluid swap at 89k with built T56
Valve Seals @ 101K
RR Axle Bearing and Seal
Windshield Chip
Rear Fluid swapped w/ Royal Purple
New PCV System
Front Brake Pads (Wagner) @ 80k
GM Ls1 Clutch Kit @ 89k w/ Trans Work
Full A/c System Replaced @ 102k
4 Kumho AST's 245/50/16 @ 104k
A big selling point for my car would no doubt be the built trans that I had done locally. Here are some specs on what all work was done:
I got a small parts kit (bearings, locks, keys)
Carbon Fiber Synchro kit (1-6 gears including reverse)
Steel 3-4 Fork (Upgraded from stock aluminum)
New Main Shaft
New 3 Gear
New 4 Gear
New Sleeves (1-2-3-4-5-6)
New Sliders (1-2-3-4-5-6)
Basically all that they didn't do completley was change the actual gears for (1,2,5,6).
The reason I say this is big because there are so many t56 cars out there that will have a slight grind when speed shifting and those are the beginning signs of tranny problems where as mine has been completley rebuilt already to save you a headache.
The tires on the car basically brand new all they around and they do great on the street and in the rain.
And now for a few of the imperfections:
-The passenger side seatbelt guide was broke when a buddy climbed into the back seat. Its a cheap part and an easy fix.
-The ashtray lid on the console is a bit wobbly.
-The RR Axle has just a little bit of wear.
-The bumper has a chip that you probably wouldn't find unless I showed you.
-I add a quart of oil in between oil changes which is extremley common on the ls1 motors.
None of these affect the vehicles performance or drivability in absolutley any way.
I have plenty of people in the area that can vouch for the car's appearance and performance on the street or at the track. I also have scans of my 1/4 mile passes if anyone needs them.
A compressions test was done on the car by me at exactly 100k miles. ALL 8 CYLINDERS PUT OUT 170PSI. This is great psi for the stock shortblock and the car is definetley ready for a cam.
If there is anything I left out at all please let me know and if you would like any extra pics or clips of the cars appearance or sound just post up and I will gladly get whatever you want on the thread. I also have detailed pics of my driveline rebuild and my motor mount/lt header install available.
Feel free to also call or email me anytime:
connexion2005@aol.com
979.575.2274
ASKING PRICE: $9,000 OBO
Feel free to post offers but I don't have a whole lot of room to walk since the car has alot done to it and is very clean for a 98.
Pics:
Vids:
Appearance Modifications:
Black Halo Headlights
Clear Corners
Hooker 3” Dual Dual Exhaust Tips
License Plate and Fascia Removal
Chrome Z28 Overlays
Chrome T/A Wheels
Berger Panel Mod (Gloss Black)
Slp Logo
Camaor Rear Insert
Performance Modifications:
Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler
TB Coolant Bypass
Ram Air Box Cutout
SLP Air Lid
K & N Air Filter
NGK Tr55 Spark Plugs
MSD 8.5MM Plug Wires
PaceSetter LT’s w/ ORY Pipe
Poly Trans Mount
Poly T/A Mount
Built T56
Poly Motor Mounts
Upgraded Slave Cylinder
Wagner Clutch Master Cylinder
Walbro In-Tank 255lph Fuel Pump
Maintenance:
Oil Changes w/ Mobile 1 every 3,000 miles
(The filter has been swapped every 1,500 miles since 97k.)
Trans Fluid swap at 89k with built T56
Valve Seals @ 101K
RR Axle Bearing and Seal
Windshield Chip
Rear Fluid swapped w/ Royal Purple
New PCV System
Front Brake Pads (Wagner) @ 80k
GM Ls1 Clutch Kit @ 89k w/ Trans Work
Full A/c System Replaced @ 102k
4 Kumho AST's 245/50/16 @ 104k
A big selling point for my car would no doubt be the built trans that I had done locally. Here are some specs on what all work was done:
I got a small parts kit (bearings, locks, keys)
Carbon Fiber Synchro kit (1-6 gears including reverse)
Steel 3-4 Fork (Upgraded from stock aluminum)
New Main Shaft
New 3 Gear
New 4 Gear
New Sleeves (1-2-3-4-5-6)
New Sliders (1-2-3-4-5-6)
Basically all that they didn't do completley was change the actual gears for (1,2,5,6).
The reason I say this is big because there are so many t56 cars out there that will have a slight grind when speed shifting and those are the beginning signs of tranny problems where as mine has been completley rebuilt already to save you a headache.
The tires on the car basically brand new all they around and they do great on the street and in the rain.
And now for a few of the imperfections:
-The passenger side seatbelt guide was broke when a buddy climbed into the back seat. Its a cheap part and an easy fix.
-The ashtray lid on the console is a bit wobbly.
-The RR Axle has just a little bit of wear.
-The bumper has a chip that you probably wouldn't find unless I showed you.
-I add a quart of oil in between oil changes which is extremley common on the ls1 motors.
None of these affect the vehicles performance or drivability in absolutley any way.
I have plenty of people in the area that can vouch for the car's appearance and performance on the street or at the track. I also have scans of my 1/4 mile passes if anyone needs them.
A compressions test was done on the car by me at exactly 100k miles. ALL 8 CYLINDERS PUT OUT 170PSI. This is great psi for the stock shortblock and the car is definetley ready for a cam.
If there is anything I left out at all please let me know and if you would like any extra pics or clips of the cars appearance or sound just post up and I will gladly get whatever you want on the thread. I also have detailed pics of my driveline rebuild and my motor mount/lt header install available.
Feel free to also call or email me anytime:
connexion2005@aol.com
979.575.2274
ASKING PRICE: $9,000 OBO
Feel free to post offers but I don't have a whole lot of room to walk since the car has alot done to it and is very clean for a 98.
Pics:
Vids:
07-16-2007, 02:05 AM
#7
12 Second Club
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iTrader: (49)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: College Station, Texas
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haha i know man...im gettin my *** bashed for putting it up...im not real persistent with sales though if doesn't sell in a few weeks i will give up on it...
