Project_SS

We are just finishing up installing the vindicator cam from Vengeance Racing. Anyone have any tips or suggestions on idle tuning?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

Anymore details about the car? The cam? The motor?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

N/M - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/752410-project_ss-meets-vengeance-racing.html

Reduce VE table as follows:
400rpm - take out 50%
800rpm - take out 30%
1200rpm - take out 10%

Change desired idle rpms. Cold start target 1100rpms progressively reducing to a 900rpm up-to-temp idle.

Timing will need to be bumped up. ~24* in P/N base timing and ~31* for in gear base timing to start.

The desired idle airflow (base running airflow vs. ect) will need to be adjusted as well. To start, I'd bump it up 4 or 5 grams/second across the board. Then, read the stickies on idle tuning and the RAFIG/RAFPN process.

That should be enough to get it started and keep it running until you can work on it a little more.

Project_SS

Well , we got the SS to idle after working with it for a while. The method that we used was raised the idle 950 rpm. Then on the idle airflow vs. coolant we added 5 g/sec across the entire table. The spark tables were raise to 28* in the 0 thru 1200. Also the over / under idle adapt.spark table were decreased by half.. After all of this it still would not idle on its own and had to keep a foot on the pedal. We then went in and lowered the ve tables from the 400 thru 2000 rpm and was then able to get it to idle own it own. After getting it up to operating temp we used a method posted by Soundengineer to get the iac count down. Started out by drilling a 1/16 hole in the TB, but this didn't lower the count any. We kept enlarging the hole in 1/32 incriments. Each one would lower the count silightly but still not in the 60-70 range. The last hole we stopped at 1/8 and this got it down to the upper 90's to low 100's. To finish lowering the iac count we turn the set screw just enough while watching the tps volts. Here's a short idle scan at operating temp.

Vengeance Racing

What software are you using. Email it to me and I will take a look. I have a program or two for the Vindicator and it will run great.

Project_SS

Email sent

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

The best idle tuning I have done so far is opening up the throttle blade with the set screw. If it needs more airflow for idle do it that way first instead of having the IAC work butt off. If you were to scan it now you would have very high IAC counts. My car liked IAC counts around 35-40.

Project_SS

Did a short test drive and scan. Tried getting into it some but no traction and have to get out of it. Reviewing the scan I see its already hitting over 100 idc by 6000 rpm. Looks like we have to upgrade injector or will more tuning improve the idc.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

If it's fat and you get it settled out you maybe able to squeak by; depends on how rich it was during that session.

347fairless

PM Chummma, he got mine straightened out in 45 seconds.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Good luck on the idle. I just wanted to take the opportunity to let others in your situation know that drilling the TB blade is really unecessary and permanant.

The relationship btw the IAC valve and the Desired Airflow and other tables (on a cable driven TB) has been frustrating for alot of folks. The valve is a mere mitagating throttle position factor.

Simply put if you are having to apply more throttle to maintain idle or any other situation like coming to a stop, then the answer is in the idle and spark tables.

Drilling the TB does offer more bypass air but is very crude and not dynamic.

I am sorry I can't offer you a silver bullet that will cure everything but anytime you increase or decrease the TB adj screw you do need to preform a TP sensor reset. You can do the TP sensor reset by unhooking the TP sensor and going key on, then hook the sensor back up and clear the code at key on.