threaded rod for pulley install?
07-26-2007, 01:16 AM
#3
4 nuts? damn, and some hella-thick washers? seems manageable i guess.
why 4 nuts?
and the stock bolt is around 5" correct? i need enough length on the rod to be short enough to get a socket wrench on there, but long enough to thread a nut on while the pulley isnt all the way seated i guess.
why 4 nuts?
and the stock bolt is around 5" correct? i need enough length on the rod to be short enough to get a socket wrench on there, but long enough to thread a nut on while the pulley isnt all the way seated i guess.
07-26-2007, 02:33 AM
#4
I do not fully understand the physics behind it, but this is how I did it.
If you have a thrust bearing, use that in place of some of the washers. Otherwise, use some oil.
- Thread rod in all the way.
- Start the pulley by hand
- Put washer stack on,
- Run nut up to washer stack.
- Put 2 nuts back-to-back on end of rod and lock them together.
- Keep the rod from turning using the back-to-back nuts while driving the washers and pully forward using the other nut.
- The 4th nut is just to hold the washer stack on the rod when you are done.
If you have a thrust bearing, use that in place of some of the washers. Otherwise, use some oil.
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07-26-2007, 10:55 AM
#8
I'd recommend buying the tool HAWK618 sells on here...it is a very nice quality piece, and used a thrust bearing so you won't have any binding issues while driving the pulley down.
Also, torque to yield bolts are not designed to be used more than once...after something has yielded, technically, it has failed. Either buy a new one from GM, or spring for the ARP bolt, which is more, but is a very, very nice bolt.
Also, torque to yield bolts are not designed to be used more than once...after something has yielded, technically, it has failed. Either buy a new one from GM, or spring for the ARP bolt, which is more, but is a very, very nice bolt.
07-26-2007, 11:57 AM
#9
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
I'd recommend buying the tool HAWK618 sells on here...it is a very nice quality piece, and used a thrust bearing so you won't have any binding issues while driving the pulley down.
Also, torque to yield bolts are not designed to be used more than once...after something has yielded, technically, it has failed. Either buy a new one from GM, or spring for the ARP bolt, which is more, but is a very, very nice bolt.
Also, torque to yield bolts are not designed to be used more than once...after something has yielded, technically, it has failed. Either buy a new one from GM, or spring for the ARP bolt, which is more, but is a very, very nice bolt.
I rent out a cam swap tool package that includes HAWKS's tool.
Also the ARP will require a 27mm 12pt socket.
07-26-2007, 01:13 PM
#10
i was asking whether i should get a GM bolt or go to the hardware store and get one.
and it looks like i'll be ordering the tool since out of 3 different hardware stores i cant find metric all-thread and i could only find M16 x 2.0 x 90 bolts. the crank bolt size should be M16 x 2.0 x 103 according to GM.
i'm cant believe i cant find this stuff anywhere.
and it looks like i'll be ordering the tool since out of 3 different hardware stores i cant find metric all-thread and i could only find M16 x 2.0 x 90 bolts. the crank bolt size should be M16 x 2.0 x 103 according to GM.
i'm cant believe i cant find this stuff anywhere.
07-26-2007, 01:22 PM
#11
Its not common stuff. You can find it online at bolt depot but there are a lot of metric struff that isnt common in stores. I fight it all the time. Something like an 8m 1.25 x45mm cant find in stores. Its not big or small but 45mm is not common they are either 40mm or 50mm. It can be a PIA
07-27-2007, 01:02 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
I rent out a cam swap tool package that includes HAWKS's tool.
Also the ARP will require a 27mm 12pt socket.
