SPEC-Shim or No Shim?
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SPEC-Shim or No Shim?
I recently put in a spec stage 3 and so far it has been great. No complaints on the clutch itself. However, (after proper break-in) I cannot get a smooth SPEED shift at WOT. It shifts fine if the shift is slow, but if you try to go too fast, it feels like the clutch does not fully disengage. So it is obvious that the problem is in the hydraulic system. The car drives perfect during normal driving and the engagement point is always right in the middle (so its not a bad slave/master). I talked to the guys at G-Force in pasadena, tx and they said that it was most likely because I did not put the shim in; and to speed shift, the pressure plate springs need that little extra kick. They said the drill mod would help some, but the problem lay in not using the shim. Before I drop the trans again, I would like to see what ya'll think and for those of you with a SPEC, shim or no shim?
Ps. SPEC guy, feel free to comment/pm me with advise.
Ps. SPEC guy, feel free to comment/pm me with advise.
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First off you need to have the drill mod done, this will greatly aid in your fast shifting. Your problem may me 100% in the fact that the the drill mod has not been done. Do the drill mod first then post back your results.
FWIW when i first bought my car I had fast shift at WOT problems juts like you and the drill mod cleared it all up.
I used the shim BTW, but if you have a mid engagement you should be OK.
FWIW when i first bought my car I had fast shift at WOT problems juts like you and the drill mod cleared it all up.
I used the shim BTW, but if you have a mid engagement you should be OK.
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Originally Posted by koji777
The shim smoked my SPEC 5.... SPEC 3 only lasted 1yr, she was shimmed as well....
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They sent no installation instructions with the clutch. There didn't seem to be any need for the shim. The thickeness of the new clutch and pressure plate were actually thicker than a stock one, so I saw no need to smash the throwout bearing even harder against the pressure plate by using the shim. Plus I had heard bad things about using the shim--like the clutch wouldn't fully engage when the clutch was all the way out. I had not done the drill mod before because it shifted fine on the stock clutch at high rpms.
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Originally Posted by aggie-chase
They sent no installation instructions with the clutch. There didn't seem to be any need for the shim. The thickeness of the new clutch and pressure plate were actually thicker than a stock one, so I saw no need to smash the throwout bearing even harder against the pressure plate by using the shim. Plus I had heard bad things about using the shim--like the clutch wouldn't fully engage when the clutch was all the way out. I had not done the drill mod before because it shifted fine on the stock clutch at high rpms.
Do the drill mod, there is a reason everyone does it, it works.
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I didn't put the shim in mine 2 yrs ago. At the time everyone on here seemed to agree that it was a bad idea to put it in. I haven't had problem until recently, and that was because my master was on it's way out and my fluid was burnt.
As mentioned I would check your fluid quality first and do the drill mod, since you said the clutch was engaging in the proper place in travel.
Brian
As mentioned I would check your fluid quality first and do the drill mod, since you said the clutch was engaging in the proper place in travel.
Brian
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Originally Posted by brad8266
The thickness of the assembly is not relevant, it can be thicker but the PP fingers can still sit back farther than stock. Its all about the position of the fingers. I have the shim and it fully engages, but I also have an adjutsable master too.
Do the drill mod, there is a reason everyone does it, it works.
Do the drill mod, there is a reason everyone does it, it works.
Anybody else have anything to say about whether they used the shim or not?
#11
Ok, if you pedal is at mid-point release then it really doesn't sound like you need the shim. It is intended to raise the release point on cars with low pedal. Now, on to your problem. Hard shifting at higher RPM's is generally alleviated by doing the drill-mod. I suggest that you check the fluid first. What does it look like? Is it black? If so then I suggest a flush and refill of the fluid. Next I suggest checking the hydraulic lines. If they are not insulated from heat then you may be boiling the fluid which will certainly lead to inconsistent release. Check these things and let me know what you find. I will, of course, be happy to assist you. Thanks!!!
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
So on a new install do you use the shim or not????
#14
On an LS1 Camaro we suggest the install of the shim. This is highlighted in the paperwork that comes with everyone of our clutch kits. This paperwork is packaged with the shim in a small zip-loc bag.
That being said, in this gentleman's situation, he doesn't seem to need the shim based on the engagement point of the pedal without the shim installed. In truth, there are always going to be some cars that are different but as a whole we suggest the shim with all LS1 Camaro's. Thanks!
That being said, in this gentleman's situation, he doesn't seem to need the shim based on the engagement point of the pedal without the shim installed. In truth, there are always going to be some cars that are different but as a whole we suggest the shim with all LS1 Camaro's. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
Ok, if you pedal is at mid-point release then it really doesn't sound like you need the shim. It is intended to raise the release point on cars with low pedal. Now, on to your problem. Hard shifting at higher RPM's is generally alleviated by doing the drill-mod. I suggest that you check the fluid first. What does it look like? Is it black? If so then I suggest a flush and refill of the fluid. Next I suggest checking the hydraulic lines. If they are not insulated from heat then you may be boiling the fluid which will certainly lead to inconsistent release. Check these things and let me know what you find. I will, of course, be happy to assist you. Thanks!!!