Need some help on finishing my UMI TQ Arm install!!!!
07-27-2007, 01:39 PM
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Need some help on finishing my UMI TQ Arm install!!!! Ok I am stumped on a few thing's like how much TQ do I have apply to the rear bolt's on the TQ Arm that connect the the rear?.. How do you get the top bolt on the front of the TQ Arm to TQ it down with barely any room( What tool is best for it). Last question is how to and adjust Pinion Angle????? Do I need a special tool for this and where can I get one??? PLease Help me so I can get this done.Thanks'
Gilbert
Gilbert
07-27-2007, 02:22 PM
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The factory spec on the torque arm bolts on the axle housing 95 ftlbs
Once you get the torque arm on the rear, you should be able to let the rear hang agains its own weight and have more than enough room to get a wrench on the top of the bolt. This really shouldn't be a problem once you have the torque arm on. You can then use a long screw driver to pry and line up the holes between the torque arm and the axle to get the bolt in. Remember to put the bolt in from the top (insures the bolt can't fall out if the nut comes off).
You need an angle finder with a magnetic base to set the pinion angle. I know that when I bought my torque arm it came with one (but I didn't get a UMI so I don't know). I know that spohn sells them... or at least you can look on that sight to see what it looks like. You can probably find one locally. You basically have to get the car level with the suspension sitting at ride height (I usually have the front wheels on ramps and put jack stands under the rear axle tubes). Take the angle on the driveshaft. Then take the angle on the flat bottom of the torque arm mount (the part bolted to the axle). Compare the two numbers. Adjust the torque arm until you get the angle you are looking for (varies depending on use, but 0 to 1 degrees pinion down is the norm). Remember to tighten the adjuster nut down with the locking bolts when you get it right. The key here is you are referencing the angle of both the drive shaft and the pinion... not just the pinion by itself.
It all should become pretty clear once you are under there.
Once you get the torque arm on the rear, you should be able to let the rear hang agains its own weight and have more than enough room to get a wrench on the top of the bolt. This really shouldn't be a problem once you have the torque arm on. You can then use a long screw driver to pry and line up the holes between the torque arm and the axle to get the bolt in. Remember to put the bolt in from the top (insures the bolt can't fall out if the nut comes off).
You need an angle finder with a magnetic base to set the pinion angle. I know that when I bought my torque arm it came with one (but I didn't get a UMI so I don't know). I know that spohn sells them... or at least you can look on that sight to see what it looks like. You can probably find one locally. You basically have to get the car level with the suspension sitting at ride height (I usually have the front wheels on ramps and put jack stands under the rear axle tubes). Take the angle on the driveshaft. Then take the angle on the flat bottom of the torque arm mount (the part bolted to the axle). Compare the two numbers. Adjust the torque arm until you get the angle you are looking for (varies depending on use, but 0 to 1 degrees pinion down is the norm). Remember to tighten the adjuster nut down with the locking bolts when you get it right. The key here is you are referencing the angle of both the drive shaft and the pinion... not just the pinion by itself.
It all should become pretty clear once you are under there.
07-27-2007, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by T-hawk
The factory spec on the torque arm bolts on the axle housing 95 ftlbs
Once you get the torque arm on the rear, you should be able to let the rear hang agains its own weight and have more than enough room to get a wrench on the top of the bolt. This really shouldn't be a problem once you have the torque arm on. You can then use a long screw driver to pry and line up the holes between the torque arm and the axle to get the bolt in. Remember to put the bolt in from the top (insures the bolt can't fall out if the nut comes off).
You need an angle finder with a magnetic base to set the pinion angle. I know that when I bought my torque arm it came with one (but I didn't get a UMI so I don't know). I know that spohn sells them... or at least you can look on that sight to see what it looks like. You can probably find one locally. You basically have to get the car level with the suspension sitting at ride height (I usually have the front wheels on ramps and put jack stands under the rear axle tubes). Take the angle on the driveshaft. Then take the angle on the flat bottom of the torque arm mount (the part bolted to the axle). Compare the two numbers. Adjust the torque arm until you get the angle you are looking for (varies depending on use, but 0 to 1 degrees pinion down is the norm). Remember to tighten the adjuster nut down with the locking bolts when you get it right. The key here is you are referencing the angle of both the drive shaft and the pinion... not just the pinion by itself.
It all should become pretty clear once you are under there.
Once you get the torque arm on the rear, you should be able to let the rear hang agains its own weight and have more than enough room to get a wrench on the top of the bolt. This really shouldn't be a problem once you have the torque arm on. You can then use a long screw driver to pry and line up the holes between the torque arm and the axle to get the bolt in. Remember to put the bolt in from the top (insures the bolt can't fall out if the nut comes off).
You need an angle finder with a magnetic base to set the pinion angle. I know that when I bought my torque arm it came with one (but I didn't get a UMI so I don't know). I know that spohn sells them... or at least you can look on that sight to see what it looks like. You can probably find one locally. You basically have to get the car level with the suspension sitting at ride height (I usually have the front wheels on ramps and put jack stands under the rear axle tubes). Take the angle on the driveshaft. Then take the angle on the flat bottom of the torque arm mount (the part bolted to the axle). Compare the two numbers. Adjust the torque arm until you get the angle you are looking for (varies depending on use, but 0 to 1 degrees pinion down is the norm). Remember to tighten the adjuster nut down with the locking bolts when you get it right. The key here is you are referencing the angle of both the drive shaft and the pinion... not just the pinion by itself.
It all should become pretty clear once you are under there.
So I need to TQ done the back bolt's to 95 FT LBS???
How do you get the top bolt on the front of the TQ Arm to TQ it down with barely any room( What tool is best for it)??? I didn't see if you answered this question on what is the best way to do it.
07-27-2007, 11:32 PM
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Ok few questions for ya. When you put the bolts in the pivot point, there are 3 holes in the two plates. Did you use the middle hole and the bottom hole? There were two holes for the torque arm to bolt to and the top one made the drive shaft rub the nut so I put the torque arm into the middle hole. What did you end up doing?
Next, when you torqued the bolts down on the rear end, you put the flat washing on top with the bolt and the lock washer on bottom with the nut (+locktite). Then on the poly end thingies you torqued them to 40-50 ft/lbs doing the top one first with the cross member lowered because the drive shaft is in the way. Then torquing the bottom one.
Next, when you torqued the bolts down on the rear end, you put the flat washing on top with the bolt and the lock washer on bottom with the nut (+locktite). Then on the poly end thingies you torqued them to 40-50 ft/lbs doing the top one first with the cross member lowered because the drive shaft is in the way. Then torquing the bottom one.
07-28-2007, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Ashes
Ok few questions for ya. When you put the bolts in the pivot point, there are 3 holes in the two plates. Did you use the middle hole and the bottom hole? There were two holes for the torque arm to bolt to and the top one made the drive shaft rub the nut so I put the torque arm into the middle hole. What did you end up doing?
Next, when you torqued the bolts down on the rear end, you put the flat washing on top with the bolt and the lock washer on bottom with the nut (+locktite). Then on the poly end thingies you torqued them to 40-50 ft/lbs doing the top one first with the cross member lowered because the drive shaft is in the way. Then torquing the bottom one.
Next, when you torqued the bolts down on the rear end, you put the flat washing on top with the bolt and the lock washer on bottom with the nut (+locktite). Then on the poly end thingies you torqued them to 40-50 ft/lbs doing the top one first with the cross member lowered because the drive shaft is in the way. Then torquing the bottom one.
I use the middle hole and yes to everything else.
07-29-2007, 12:34 AM
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Got everything installed, I stripped one bolt on the LCA relocation part but reused the stock ones ok. Not sure how but whatever. I didn't do any adjusting yet of pinion angle or the crossmember bracket though. First few drives around seemed ok, car seems to pickup more vibs from the rear end then before but nothing too bad. I forgot to do two things though, grease the pivot on the TA and put the VSS back in (0 mph in 3rd gear, hmm). Next on list is going to be LCA and panhard bar kit, hopefully I can get UMI to send another 7/16" bolt with it.
One thing to note for anything thinking about UMI LCA relocation, you have to do alot of 'convincing' to get the bracket to fit. The directions don't mention anything about having the E-brake and brake line bracket in the way of where the UMI one goes. I will be posting a few pics of my redneckish fix for it but just something to think about.
One thing to note for anything thinking about UMI LCA relocation, you have to do alot of 'convincing' to get the bracket to fit. The directions don't mention anything about having the E-brake and brake line bracket in the way of where the UMI one goes. I will be posting a few pics of my redneckish fix for it but just something to think about.
