fastGBcamaro

iTrader: (10)

I thought I did it write, but it would have been nice to get some directions with the clutch. The only directions I got were for the oz700. I also installed a new slave cylinder at the same time. I dont think there could be any way to mess up the slave cylinder install. Anyways, what could I have messed up with my clutch install that would cause me to be unable to press the clutch pedal in. If I crack the bleeder open, I can press the clutch pedal down and fluid sprays out of the bleeder in the slave cylinder, but if I keep the bleeder closed and attempt to press the clutch pedal it wont go in. What could possibly be wrong? I know it shouldnt have anything to do with the issue, but I also dropped in a brand new 413 ci LS2 stroker that this clutch is bolted to, and I cant fire it up until I get this clutch issue resolved.

pewter01z

iTrader: (44)

I can't remember if it is possible to put the pressure plate on backwards or not. Its been a while since I looked at my exo.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I got no instrucions for the tex twin and while have been promised some by both tex and byun never did recieve any and email would be fine. I just sort of winged it reading old posts here and setting torque specs forget exactly but think close to stock specs. I had problem that could not press the pedal down and it was my slave line from master was not clicked into the slave all the way. If the pedal is soft it needs bleeding.If pedal won't go down its likely what I said. Check that slave line it has to go in there right! My clutch is working not too bad with about 800 mies on it .You can search and read my other posts on the clutch. I am still not that happy with its streetabiity and the floater noise. It was hell to get on driveon hoist today.
Mabye with another 1000 miles or something.. Pedal pressure is not too bad and it seems it can hold the power, although not running much yet and not tracking the car.

You can't really install the thing that wrong. I used brand new slave and brand new master. Pilot bearing was ok. I loctited with red loctite the pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts. I lined up the clutch disc pucks over each other. I had some trouble getting tranny in had to use longer bolts to do it. And bleeding seemed to take forever. But now it shifts pretty nicely into gear even at high rpm. I have drill mod and put penzoil synchromesh in my trans.
My main remaining complaints are the floater noise when you push in the clutch and how hard this clutch is to drive in heavy traffic or onto hoists, situations like that.
It really should be sold as a race clutch. Its not that streetable unless mine breaks in a lot more after more miles. I can do traffic that is not too heavy no problem though.

fastGBcamaro

iTrader: (10)

Thanks MY99TAWS6, it sounds like you went through a lot of the same problems that I did. I also had a tough time getting the trans to bolt to the engine, and I did the same thing by using the longer bolts to pull it together. I checked the master to slave line and I thought it was good. I will detach and reattach it in the morning. I would be so extatic if thats all it was. My only doubt is that I am still able to crack the bleeder in the slave and push in the clutch pedal and get fluid to spray out of the bleeder. Would this be possible if the master line wasnt connected. If thats not it I am just going to have it towed somewhere, and pay someone else to figure it out. Im sure you know how it feels to spend that much time and money on something only to find out that its not working. Anyways, thanks again and Ill be sure to post my impressions of the clutch as soon as I do get it working.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Hmm that does sound different from when I had the line not in all the way. Once got it in then had to bleed hell out of things and then it worked well. I have a remote bleeder much better the factory is in a terrible spot. It don't make much sense what you said. If you open bleeder pedal should go to floor as fluid will come out bottom of trans. If you close it then fluid should not come out and pedal should be firm if you have bleed it but it should go to floor and you should get your gears. If its not going to the floor then sounds like maybe you do have a disc in backwards. They are marked flywheel side though. And pressure plate can only go on one way. I did double check to make sure that my trans was in there even turning front of motor and making sure the output shaft was turning. I was close but just couldn't get it all the way in there.
Good luck and hope you figure things out. Dropping the trans is a pain I think,. and still fracking mad at gm for putting the stupid slave inside the trans. It was outside on the lt1 and many many other cars. Stupid gm!!

bwana

Just got my OZ X in & during install tried to push the pedal before the line was hooked up to slave... so, yeah, check-be sure it's in there good. It goes in there pretty deep. Maybe the "check" piston in the hose coupler is stuck closed somehow, or the "tit" on the slave that pushes it open...?

Now for the bummer...I seem to remember someone in this section awhile back having the same problem because the TO bearing was "cammed/alinged" in a particular position(s) on it's hub & that if not it will not travel. This guy had bent the rod on at least 1 master givin' it an extra pissed-off push. Hope that ain't what's goin' on, eh.

BTW-worse part, most time consuming part of the whole install was lining up the u-bolt with the holes in the floor trying to get the MC in. You have to get one guy inside holding the MC against the floor with the holes lined up BEFORE another guy stabs the u-bolt in from outside, by feel-can't see nuttin'.