What pushrods are best for a stroker motor??
08-02-2007, 09:27 PM
#1
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What pushrods are best for a stroker motor?? Looking for suggestions for pushrods on a stroker motor? Are there any major differences besides thickness? Will a 3/8 fit in an LS1?
Thanks.
Thanks.
08-03-2007, 06:48 AM
#2
How many RPM's do you plan on turning your motor? In most street applications any hardened ls1 type pushrod will work. Crane, Comp, Manley...
The LS7 427 uses aluminum pushrods with hardened steel tips...this pushrod is roughly 3/8".
The LS7 427 uses aluminum pushrods with hardened steel tips...this pushrod is roughly 3/8".
08-03-2007, 01:40 PM
#3
You can get different diameters, different wall thickness, different tips, different oiling, etc.
Crane found on their Spintron that the 5/16" pushrod was behaving like a wet noodle at high RPM's. My research indicated you should not be concerned with pushrod mass as it's on the slow side of the rocker. Anything you can do to decrease deflection is beneficial. Balance that against the cost and the possibility of needing to machine the block and/or heads.
I went with Crane 3/8 x. 080" pushrods in the build I completed a few days ago. They were more costly ($190) than Smith Bros. or Manton (~$150-160), but I also was able to pick them up local. They are tapered on the ends and didn't require any machine work for clearance (you only need .010). My block was decked .020, heads milled .040, and the gasket shrunk .014. The intake needed to be modified to sit flat, so I was pleasantly surprised to find I didn't need more machine work.
Crane found on their Spintron that the 5/16" pushrod was behaving like a wet noodle at high RPM's. My research indicated you should not be concerned with pushrod mass as it's on the slow side of the rocker. Anything you can do to decrease deflection is beneficial. Balance that against the cost and the possibility of needing to machine the block and/or heads.
I went with Crane 3/8 x. 080" pushrods in the build I completed a few days ago. They were more costly ($190) than Smith Bros. or Manton (~$150-160), but I also was able to pick them up local. They are tapered on the ends and didn't require any machine work for clearance (you only need .010). My block was decked .020, heads milled .040, and the gasket shrunk .014. The intake needed to be modified to sit flat, so I was pleasantly surprised to find I didn't need more machine work.
