aliensRreal

I have found a place that will do each rotor for 10 bucks each. My rotors are definitely not great, is it possible they are too far gone to be saved? Is it even worth it to shave the rotors? Money is not flowing very well so price is quite important. If it matters something down there squeaks every now and then.

Also, if I get the rotors done would it be required to replace pads aswell? No clue when the pads were last changed, but the car has been in my possession for less than 10k miles.

I know very little about this stuff so any response is greatly appreciated. Infact the only reason brakes are on my mind currently is because multiple people have said it looks like brakes are in my near future. I may be able to get pictures soon, but not very sure.

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

brakes are not something you want to mess around with...i would just throw on a new set of pads and not worry about cutting the rotors.

93redBIRDman

iTrader: (9)

You are ALWAYS supposed to turn (shave down) the rotors when installing new brake pads... If you don't then you will get premature wear on them both. They both need to be perfectly flat for them to do their job correctly, not vibrate, and last the longest.

Greggy

Minor circular grooves in rotor will not cause a problem. If the rotor are mostly flat, not warped and not cracked or too thin, I would just sand them down a bit to remove any old pad material and install the new pads.

Are they warped and vibrate the steering? If so just replace with cheap Autozone Duralast Rotors. They will get you 25,000 miles or more in the front.

If not, then you may just need pads, or just a cleaning and a glide pin re-lube.

Cutting old rotors has been shown to have poor long term results.

shaun

and the brakes feel shitty and weak after the rotors are turned

aliensRreal

Vibrating has happened only a handful of times. It usually occurs during harder than normal stops.

Will these Duralast rotors give me = or > stopping than stock? It seems the Duralast rotors would cost about 60 bucks for one. Wouldn't it make most sense to get a set of Brembos for that price? The fronts are much more reasonable at 40 or so.

EDIT:
I forgot to mention that my pedal is quite squishy.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Wait a sec, my mind just said that you found Brembo front rotors @$40.00 each?

Is that true or is it my reading comprehensi???

aliensRreal

No, the Duralast rotors are 40 each for the fronts. The Brembos run for $65 from StranoParts. That's really the only place that seems to have Brembo rotors for that cheap, even though it doesn't specify if they are blanks or not. Most places seem to have slotted and/or drilled.

Forgot to mention one other detail:

Sometimes when braking the car jerks back and forth. Like the pad loses grip on the rotor. Sorry if that doesn't make sense, I really dono of any other way to put it.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Is this while going straight or braking in a corner, how fast are you going, are you braking real hard or...???

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Which also tells you that you could use a brake fluid flush, and a good brake inspection. The inspection should include a brake line inspection as well. With the mileage you have on it, it's highly unlikely that either your lines or your brake caliper seals could be bad, but at least some inspection could help determine that.

If you have the brake fluid flush, then it's also important for whom ever performs it to ensure that the ABS module is reset/activated in order to clear any possible air and/or vapour bubbles from the line, because most types of vapour in the lines (such as air, water, etc.) can cause some major "sponge feel." Also be aware that water in the lines can cause this too, even when it's hard to detect by the human senses. Water is highly compressible compared to good brake fluid, and unfortunately brake fluid can be, and usually is very hygroscopic (absorbs water).

aliensRreal

I don't believe that has ever happened around a turn, maybe while slowing for a turn but never while actually going around the corner. The speed limits where I drive most are no lower than 40 mph, so from 40 and up is when it mostly happens and always happens during normal breaking for a light, not hard stops. Done believe it has ever studdered like that during a hard stop.

Greggy

The rear rotor rarely warp... it ususally is the fronts. I've had Brembo and still do on the rear. They were good and the Duralast are almost as good for less with a two year warranty that I used to get a new set after 25k miles of use. So I figure the Bremebo are a bit better, but I get two sets for the price of one.

It sounds like you NEED rotors. If you feel it in the steering, the do the fronts. If the backs are getting thin (below re-use thickness), then do those as well. You can go with a lifetime wear-out warranty pad. The Autozone PFC fronts are much better than the Duralasts. Hawks HPS would be good for you as well, but the are like double the price and don't have a warranty. I'm basing this all on the money + brakes = part price equation.

Definately grab a qt. of Valvoline synthpower brake fluid ($6), and do a complete flush and bleed. when you are done.

Don't forget to use synthetic brake grease for the slider pins and other metal on metal places...and anti-sqeal stuff on the pad back plates if you want to be extra sure of quiet operation.

After all that they will feel like new. Good Luck!

aliensRreal

Alright thank you, I will look into getting new brake fluid in my lines and such.

Greggy

Propper tire pressure and an alignment with abit a bit of toe-in will cure the jerking somewhat... as long as your other steering and front end components are all tight.

You might ask for -1/16" total toe-in, +4 to +5 caster, -.25 to -.5 Camber for a mild street setup.

aliensRreal

The jerking doesn't happen very often, just thought I would mention it just incase it could be a deciding factor or something.

Also, how do I know what the reuse thickness is? The back rotors do look quite a bit better than the front, much more smooth.


EDIT:

I just talked with my mom about redoing my brakes and she complied to help. With that said I still don't want to spend a fortune. I saw a set of rotors at the ws6store for 170 on all four corners. Rotoworks, not a popular brand but apparently people like them, excluding the cracking from being drilled. Would you guys suggest these or just getting the Duralast from Autozone? The rear rotors still look quite good so I am not sure if it's necessary to do those aswell...If the back should be done, get some Brembos since they would only cost about 4 bucks more? What about some ebay options?

As for pads, I was looking at the Hawk deal at ws6store but that is still quite high. Are there any suggestions for a more reasonably priced set that are still of quality?

Greggy

The PFC at Autozone are great pads for little $$. They were the first Carbon Metalic pads that all others copied. They last forever and have a lifetime waranty, but they don't make a matching rear set. I have rear on order from WS6store now to see if they match up well with the PFC. The semi-metallic I have on the back now are ok, but the PFC fronts have alot more bite.

That said Hawk HPS are very good as far as most say. Don't know about Rotoworks at all, but if the rears are ok just do fronts for now and see how it feels after a 4 wheel bleed. Then if need be, you can tackle the backs and just do pads.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I think before you go on with trying to do something "fancy" with selecting your rotors, you should be aware that blank rotors (either the duralast or the Brembo OE replacement) is all that you'll ever need for replacement. Not only are they inexpensive, but they're effective.

As concerns with pads, there are better ones than the Hawks. I believe there are the Axxis/Bendix pads. Even though they dust quite a bit, they're really effective. Believe it or not, the pad is a highly neglected, yet crtitical compound of the brake system.

You could also give stranoparts a call. They should help you out pretty well.

aliensRreal

Thanks for the suggestions. I initially planned on doing something like the Duralast. I want something that will work just as good if not better than what's on there now. The slots and such don't really matter to me. I will also0 check into those brake pad suggestions, thank you!

aliensRreal

Thanks for all your hlep, I will look into these pads aswell.

So you are saying to get new rotors up front and chage the pads all the way around? There will be no problems with a new rotor and a used pad?

Please excuse my lack of knowledge. I know pretty much nothing when it comes to cars. Thanks to everyone who took the time to help and those who will continue to help.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Basically, if you have the OEM AC Delco rotors, just plan on having them changed out. They weren't made very well to begin with and it's not much to have either Duralast or Brembo OE blanks. The brake inspection should deal with not only inspecting for rotor thickness, but also rotor runout as well.

AFA the Pads, they could use an inspection as well. While I don't mind the rear AC Delco pads, the fronts could be better.

I'd say if money is really tight and the brakes need service, then plan on having a complete brake inspection, but plan on getting the right parts to replace what needs to be replaced at the moment.