LS6 Intake install / EGR removal - HOWTO
08-05-2007, 08:59 PM
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LS6 Intake install / EGR removal - HOWTO LS6 install guide and EGR removal.
This install guide is for the 98 -00 ls1 fbodies that do not have the LS6 intake.
You need to purchase the following parts.
I picked them all up for roughly $400
You can get all from WS6store.com and ls1speed.com
# 1- Coolant Pipe Part# 12602544
# 2- Rear Coolant Plugs Part# 12602540
# EGR block off plate
# LS6 intake
First removed the lid and MAF by taking out the sensor plugs and unscrewing the band clamp on the throttle
body. Set it someplace safe so you don't mess the MAF up.
Then unplug the sensors on the throttle body, the cruise, the vacuum and coolant lines that go to it.
Finally remove the 3 bolts that hold the throttle body in place.
Now to remove the EGR. Simply remove all the bolts holding it in place. They are located on the intake,
on front of the left head and on the manifold its self.
NOTE. You will need to put an egr block off plate on the manifold or emissions headers before you go any further. You will also have to get the EGR programmed out, otherwise you will have a SES light.
Now disconnect the injector wireing. Simply press the metal clip in and wiggle the clip off.
Now disconnect the vaccum hose going to the brake booster, just let it dangle back there for now.
Also unplug the connectors that look like they are used in conjuntion with the fuel system.
Unhook the plastic connector for fuel on the front right side of the intake. Just press in the grey ring
and then pull the whole connection off the fitting, you might have to wiggle it a little.
Unbolt all the 10 bolts that hold the intake manifold down. Remove as many of them as you can and set them
aside.
TIP:The ones you are unable to get find a small rubber hose that will fit around one of the intake
bolts. Cut 1 inch section and slip them around the bolts you can't get out. This will hold them up for
the next step and alleviate a HUGE headache.
REMINDER -- BE CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR TIME!! I can't emphasize that enough.
Now lift up on the front of the intake to break the seal it has to the heads.
Gently slide the intake forward enough for you to get your arm around the backside to unhook the sensor
and small vacuum hose.
Here is a picture of what your dealing with back there.
This should REALLY help anyone who hasn't done this before.
I was having an issue with being able to slide the intake forward because the transmission disp stick tube
was in the way. I had to jack up the car and get a couple extensions with i believe it was a 15mm socket
to take out this bolt.
It allowed me to move the tube off to the side.
Please note, I was unable to get the bolt back in because of the space and angle. I haven't had any
issues with it unbolted.
Now pull it out and set it across the front of the motor. Be careful not to kink or ruin anything. Take
the 4 bolts off that hold the fuel rails down. Now pop the fuel injectors out of the intake. Put one
hand on the intake and grab one of the fuel rails with the other and pull straight up. The injectors
should pop right out of the intake.
Set the fuel rails/injectors off to the side and remove the intake.
Now you have to remove the coolant lines by simply removing the bolt that holds it down at each corner.
You also need to remove the small clips that are on the knock sensors wiring that held it to the coolant
pipe.
They will hit the manifold and will cause it to rock back and fourth.
After you have the coolant pipe and plugs in place, just work in reverse order to put it all back
together.
You can reuse the intake port gaskets on the new intake if you didn't get any with it. You also may want
to carefully clean up the valley pan while you have it accessible. I had a bunch of crap on mine.
AGAIN TAKE YOUR TIME!
Once you have the intake back on and the bolts snugged up, torque them to 44 inch lbs. Then again to 89
inch lbs. INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS!
As usual before you start up the car, check over EVERYTHING to see you have it all hooked up correctly and
there are no loose wires, bolts etc...
I noticed a pretty big difference on the top end after the install. The car really gets up and moves in
the higher RPM's now.
It also cleaned up the engine bay with the removal of the EGR.
BEFORE.
AFTER.
... and i'm spent.
Found this kind of amusing.. hit the button while trying to move the camera around in back of the engine bay to take pics.
This install guide is for the 98 -00 ls1 fbodies that do not have the LS6 intake.
You need to purchase the following parts.
I picked them all up for roughly $400
You can get all from WS6store.com and ls1speed.com
# 1- Coolant Pipe Part# 12602544
# 2- Rear Coolant Plugs Part# 12602540
# EGR block off plate
# LS6 intake
First removed the lid and MAF by taking out the sensor plugs and unscrewing the band clamp on the throttle
body. Set it someplace safe so you don't mess the MAF up.
Then unplug the sensors on the throttle body, the cruise, the vacuum and coolant lines that go to it.
Finally remove the 3 bolts that hold the throttle body in place.
Now to remove the EGR. Simply remove all the bolts holding it in place. They are located on the intake,
on front of the left head and on the manifold its self.
NOTE. You will need to put an egr block off plate on the manifold or emissions headers before you go any further. You will also have to get the EGR programmed out, otherwise you will have a SES light.
Now disconnect the injector wireing. Simply press the metal clip in and wiggle the clip off.
Now disconnect the vaccum hose going to the brake booster, just let it dangle back there for now.
Also unplug the connectors that look like they are used in conjuntion with the fuel system.
Unhook the plastic connector for fuel on the front right side of the intake. Just press in the grey ring
and then pull the whole connection off the fitting, you might have to wiggle it a little.
Unbolt all the 10 bolts that hold the intake manifold down. Remove as many of them as you can and set them
aside.
TIP:The ones you are unable to get find a small rubber hose that will fit around one of the intake
bolts. Cut 1 inch section and slip them around the bolts you can't get out. This will hold them up for
the next step and alleviate a HUGE headache.
REMINDER -- BE CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR TIME!! I can't emphasize that enough.
Now lift up on the front of the intake to break the seal it has to the heads.
Gently slide the intake forward enough for you to get your arm around the backside to unhook the sensor
and small vacuum hose.
Here is a picture of what your dealing with back there.
This should REALLY help anyone who hasn't done this before.
I was having an issue with being able to slide the intake forward because the transmission disp stick tube
was in the way. I had to jack up the car and get a couple extensions with i believe it was a 15mm socket
to take out this bolt.
It allowed me to move the tube off to the side.
Please note, I was unable to get the bolt back in because of the space and angle. I haven't had any
issues with it unbolted.
Now pull it out and set it across the front of the motor. Be careful not to kink or ruin anything. Take
the 4 bolts off that hold the fuel rails down. Now pop the fuel injectors out of the intake. Put one
hand on the intake and grab one of the fuel rails with the other and pull straight up. The injectors
should pop right out of the intake.
Set the fuel rails/injectors off to the side and remove the intake.
Now you have to remove the coolant lines by simply removing the bolt that holds it down at each corner.
You also need to remove the small clips that are on the knock sensors wiring that held it to the coolant
pipe.
They will hit the manifold and will cause it to rock back and fourth.
After you have the coolant pipe and plugs in place, just work in reverse order to put it all back
together.
You can reuse the intake port gaskets on the new intake if you didn't get any with it. You also may want
to carefully clean up the valley pan while you have it accessible. I had a bunch of crap on mine.
AGAIN TAKE YOUR TIME!
Once you have the intake back on and the bolts snugged up, torque them to 44 inch lbs. Then again to 89
inch lbs. INCH POUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS!
As usual before you start up the car, check over EVERYTHING to see you have it all hooked up correctly and
there are no loose wires, bolts etc...
I noticed a pretty big difference on the top end after the install. The car really gets up and moves in
the higher RPM's now.
It also cleaned up the engine bay with the removal of the EGR.
BEFORE.
AFTER.
... and i'm spent.
Found this kind of amusing.. hit the button while trying to move the camera around in back of the engine bay to take pics.
08-05-2007, 09:57 PM
#2
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wow i read both your AIR and now this write up and really good job, lots of detail and good pictures ill probly be doing EGR and AIR this week and will use your write up as a guide. thanks for the threads
08-06-2007, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 99 H.O.S.S.
Nice write up freak, about how long did it take you to remove egr and the air?
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08-06-2007, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bene
What are those two sensors you have to disconnect at the back of the intake?
08-06-2007, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
The sensor is your map sensor. Also, you do not have to take that bolt off on the back of the head.
I've got a header install coming up and will put it back then.
08-06-2007, 03:28 PM
#14
"Where can you get the EGR programmed out?
What does it typically cost?"
Anyone who has a tuning program for your year car; HPTuners, EFILive etc.
Cost is usually some food or beer for your buddy, or maybe $25-$50 depending on the person and what they want to charge.
What does it typically cost?"
Anyone who has a tuning program for your year car; HPTuners, EFILive etc.
Cost is usually some food or beer for your buddy, or maybe $25-$50 depending on the person and what they want to charge.
08-06-2007, 03:32 PM
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Cool.. I've got EFILive but haven't ever used it.. I bought it years ago when I bought up a cam swap kit, etc but sold off everything..
Even picked up LS1Edit and I have lost it... somehow...
I didn't know EFILive could program it out, I guess I need to look at getting some new software for it..
Even picked up LS1Edit and I have lost it... somehow...
I didn't know EFILive could program it out, I guess I need to look at getting some new software for it..
