Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

OK heres it goes. common knowledge stuff ive skipped ie jacks and jack stands. i dont have A/C so i dont know how you go about getting to the motor mounts w/ it in, i heard tale of removing the starter, i didnt have to do that.

1.dissconnect battery
2.Remove wheels
3.remove brakes
4. remove sway bar
5.remove shocks and springs ( on the driver side near the brake master there are 2 star bolts, make sure you get the master cylinder out of the way. i found out the hard way) why GM did this i have no idea, sooo stupid

heres a pic




6. replace new upper a arms since they are out and out of the way.
7. dissconnect tie rods
8. unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the steering rack onto the kmember
9. remove altanator and wire tie it up out of the way.
10. remove motor mount bolts
11. place jack under the oil pan w/ a block of wood to distribute weight. lift it up until it is off the kmember

12. get another jack and place it under the stock kmember, remove the 6 bolts (3 on each side)
13. remove the 4 bolts that hold the brake line to the kmember (they are tiny)
14. make sure all wires are out of the way
15. lower jack

16. pull that Heavy *** STOCK KMEMBER OUT lol
17. install new motor mounts
18. lower the motor down about 4"s
19. lift new k member up and connect the kmember to the motor mount brackets
20. raise the motor back up and install the 6 bolts into the kmember you can tighten them down now as well.
21. reinstall the alt.
22. reinstall the steering rack into the new kmember
23. install the upper a arm and shock. tighten them down (i replaced the 2 torques bolts on the driver side w/ regular metric bolts from a hardware store)
24. install lower a arm (try to keep the bolts centered in the slots)
25. connect the shock to the lower a arm and tighten.
26. connect the spindle into the ball joint on the lower a arm and upper a arm. tighten and add the cotter pins
27. connect teh steering rack.
28. reinstall the brake master cyclinder
29. reinstall brakes and rotors
30. GO THROUGH AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS TIGHT.
31. put the wheelsback on.
32. reconnect battery



heres some more pics that i took.
















hope this helps!!

Good Luck.

Id def recommend doing it yourself w/ a friend of course get to learn about the car. instead of paying $500+ for it. its pretty easy just time consuming.

-brandon

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

good stuff.

z28poweredlt1

iTrader: (1)

Nice and thanks for the write up, Any idea on the difference in weight?

95GreenZ28

iTrader: (70)

Good write up man!

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

ill see if i can get some rough numbers from the scale in the bathroom.

getting started now

-brandon

Houdini

iTrader: (2)

Very nice!!

I have a UMI Road Race K-member and A-arms sitting in my living room, been toying with the idea of doing it myself in the garage.

It doesn't look so hard now that you broke it down... perhaps I'll give it a whirl.

Will be following this thread.

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

updated w/ pics and install is done.

-brandon

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

also i found it to be roughly 28lbs less.

-brandon

1_Hot_SOM_WS6

WOW! So I guess thats where you've been for the past few days!! LOL. That was a serious job...now I see why you were trying to get Ant to do it for you. LOL.

speedo

iTrader: (15)

Nice write up... Just got a used one off a member, so I will be doing the install soon. I can get to a hoist, but it's a PTA between my schedule and to use it when the shops closed..... So maybe we will just do it on the ground so we get it done..

Why did you replace the torques bolts?

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

cause i stripped the one accidently, that was before i removed the master cyclinder out of the way.if you move the master cyclinder out of the way before hand you should be fine, and i was orginally gonna replace them anyway cause i dont like the torques bolts, and i just wanted to replace them w/ normal hex bolts.

-brandon

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

This job is infinitely more easy with a lift. I've been there. It still took me 2 days though.

speedo

iTrader: (15)

Ok I was just wondering cause I seen PA racing sold a grade 8 bolt kit for my K member...

Agian nice work on the write up.....

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

i wonder if its the same bolts?

thanks,just trying to help others out w/ a write up for the 1st timers and a great money saver too.

-brandon

Specialized

iTrader: (15)

hopefully no one has to SWAP k members more than once lol

sills1

iTrader: (1)

Awesome write up......

I just can't believe someone would go to all that trouble and not take the time to clean up the fender well area as well as paint that nasty hunk of rust that GM failed to paint.

speedo

iTrader: (15)

I just plan on using the stock bolts. ramairws6 did and he has no issues..

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Do you have any pics of how much more clearance you have between the lower most primary closest to the K-member on the passenger side?

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

what clearance are you looking for? sorry i cant think of what your talking about... i can def take more pics if needed.
-brandon

Krab

iTrader: (28)

I was wondering if having this K-member gives more clearance between the K-member and the lower most primary on the passenger side (on the header). Basically, the clearance between the K-member and the header (bottom part).