mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

Setup
magnuson at 4psi with other bolt ons, reflash, slight tune 400rwhp, very (or at least what i was trying to do) easy setup on the motor i thought.

scenario
motor #1, had a lot of miles on it, spins bearings at summit point raceway. motor was old, no big deal.

motor #1
freshly built by a local machine shop that i thought was compitent, has maybe 5 hours on it, went to a banked oval and while sliding around in 3rd gear high rpm motor starts knocking, park it.

im about to start dissassembly, but i've always questioned ls1's oiling system, heres a video of what the car was doing when it died (not the exact video, but from a couple weeks ago) other than that it just gets driven around in traffic for about an hour and on the highway before i take it to the track after filling/topping off all fluids just to check and make sure everything is okay.

i just wanted to see if any yall who know these motors in and out, and their flaws could point me in the right direction. i cant afford to keep doing this replacing motor stuff, i never had a problem with this for two years, and i dont understand.

im using the gto pan as well, with normally 7 quarts to prevent slosh, this time though i was at 6 quarts when i lost motor.

mobil 10-40 or 15-50 is what is always used.

im not tryign to make stupid power, im just trying to play it safe, but apparently im ******* up somewhere.

heres video, just to give you idea of abuse. i keep wondering about that, but honestly the pickup is up front, the front of the car is the lowest part i really dont get it, hopefully ill find something on dissassembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMzoDE47zMM

santiago

iTrader: (28)

just get a 347 from lme and call it a day.

Asmodeus

You need to either look at a dry sump system, or splurge on a ported/shimmed ls6 pump at minimum... drill a small hole in the bottom of the lifter trays to prevent oil from puddling at the top of the engine, and possibly a baffled oil pan.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Oil Accumulator?

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

the brown plastic trays?

does anyone make a baffled front sump pan?

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

You might want to consider an accusump also. It is chaper than a dry sump. With the high g loads that your engine sees the extra 2 quarts of capisity that the accusump has should help the oil starvation issue. Your engine probbily has 2 or more quarts floating around in the top end and 4 in the pan. I would not have a problem running more oil in the engine also maybe 8 quarts. I did that when I was turning my car 8000 withe the wet sump.

Formula_Power

iTrader: (18)

So you took your brand new motor that only had 6 hours on it to an oval track? Don;t you think you should have given it more time to properly break in all those new parts before you give it hell at a track?

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

I would do the accusump and have the car tuned on a dyno by a shop that knows how to tune LS1's. I say that cause you say you just have a reflash and you wold benifit from a full tune. Do you have a WBo2 to check your A/F? I think it's a oil problem or maybe your tune is off and it leaned out. Cover your *** and check both. Great driving by the way, the video was great. If I had a track close by me I would be drifting instead of 1/4 dragracing.

Asmodeus

the engine will be broken in within the first 20 miles of driving or a few pulls of dyno time. the worst thing you can do with a fresh new engine is give it 500 easy miles of driving. You'll wash down the rings and kill the crosshatch before the rings ever seat.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Yes, the brown lifter trays.. and GMHTP's last issue just had quite a few road race articles, I am sure they list what pans they are running.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

gmhtp?

car has been on the dyno a good bit just making 2 pulls to check everything , a/f has been fine.

ive driven it hot a couple times and it pulls timing thats about it.

AU N EGL

Banked Oval?? that is oil starvation. Does not matter how many miles are on you engine. Going on to a banking will cause the oil to FALL to the drivers side of the block. ( down the hill )

an accu-sump will help some what, but if you plan on doing lots of banked oval events, then a 2 stage dry sump is your only real option.

Oso SS

iTrader: (3)

I have nothing to add other than you are a crazy sumbish and htat video was cool as ****.

markp03

iTrader: (4)

sweet driving

427

iTrader: (3)

Very cool video to watch!! I would use a dry sump on that type of car. It will cure bearing problems with a proper tank.

Kurt

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

what type of dry sump setups are available that are a good deal?

i.e. affordable but good stuff, i want to say CHEAP because im POOR but i dont feel like reading the whole you get what you pay for thing, whats the most inexpensive way to do it right. im pretty good with tools/fittings/plumbing etc and i dont mind reading, i just have zero clue where to look.

AU N EGL

Just watched your video. Very Very Cool.

However, those sliding G-force on you engine will cause the oil to slide from one side of the block to the other very quickly. and BANG from oil starvation.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

i figured with the extra oil that wouldnt be that big of a problem, but apparently it was.

anyone care to point me in the right direction for wet sump assist or dry sump?

the motor is apart, everything looks really clean inside, no shavings or anything thankfully. our head engine builder told me dont touch the mains so im waiting for shortblock teardown tomorrow. but id like to improve everything i can while its apart and down.. buying a super clean motor tomorrow as a tempororary, gonna dissassemble and reassemble this one hopefully for the last time and then build a duplicate.

Formula_Power

iTrader: (18)

[QUOTE=Asmodeus]the engine will be broken in within the first 20 miles of driving or a few pulls of dyno time. the worst thing you can do with a fresh new engine is give it 500 easy miles of driving. You'll wash down the rings and kill the crosshatch before the rings ever seat.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm





So I can buildt me a motor run it 20 mins and then run it at redline for an hour and have no ill results? Haven;t heard that before

machinistone

There is no question about it, you NEED a dry sump system. I don't know if anyone makes a "kit" for the LS motors, typically you will buy the pump and tank, then setup your own fittings and lines for your application.

97zSC

[QUOTE=Formula_Power]did you even read the website? says nothing about redlining it for an hour.. it talks about giving it a few good pulls then decelerating to seat rings propperly