AllThrottle4U

iTrader: (14)

I'm one of the few lucky ones that's having trouble getting the car into 1st gear, or any gear for that matter. I bought a speed inc slave spacer and plan on putting it in this week. But, i'm afraid once I put it in it still won't be enough. I've driven the car about 1000 miles and it still has not adjusted. My concern is if I pull the tranny and put the shim in will it adjust since it's fully disengaging. I also want to know if I can do the adjustment procedure while the flywheel and pressure plate are still bolted to the engine. I really don't have the tools to do it on a bench. Should I just install the spacer and hope all is well? I don't want to keep pulling the tranny on trial and error. I must have a warped flywheel because I've been driving it pretty hard and no dice. Thanks
Paul

frisky2101

iTrader: (8)

just installed mine a week or so ago, having no problems getting it into any gear while at idle, 1st thru 6th driving is fine for me my problem is shifting back down into 1st at more then 8ish mph other than that ( which really doesn't both me) mine feels great and I didn't use a spacer

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

I'm having the exact same problem only a bit worse than yours because the car is not drivable and you can't get it in any gear. I'm consittering taking it back apart to install a shim, but first I'm gonna bleed it till the cows come home to see if that make a difference.

Re'

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

You should not have ANY issues with this clutch set-up on a stock drivetrain. DO NOT shim this clutch. It is not needed. These clutch kits install exactly like a stock unit.

I would look at the slave weather it be new or original with miles on it. Also keep bleeding it. If it's not goin into gear it's not the clutch. It's in the hydrolics & I'd bet on it needing to be bled more or a faulty slave.

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

Thanks Mike

AllThrottle4U

iTrader: (14)

See, I don't see how you can be accurate by saying that. This clutch is not made for an f-body or even a c5 for that matter. The design has changed dramatically. All I can say is I have a remote bleeder, ran it back up to the reservior after pumping new fluid to the whole system, and pumped the clutch for thirty minutes. Before I did that I put the mighty vac on it at 20 psi for the night. My hydraulics were perfect before I installed the clutch. I can assure you there is no air in my system. I can feel at the top of the pedal about a quarter of the overall travel pushing the slave before it even touches the fingers. The thing that worries me is the adjustability, if it's adjustable then something has to be out of adjustment with the brand new clutch disk. There's no way luk or gm has that many variances in manufacturing to have some needing a shim and some not. What I need to know is how to adjust the clutch. I think many people can benefit by knowing how to do this before installing, instead of others not having any problem and just saying bleed the system again and again with no results.

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

The clutch has no adjustment at all. The throwout bearing has a spring behind it keeping it in contact with the fingers at all times. Installing shims allows it to travel more when the spring height is shorter than stock. In many cases the stock non-adjustable pushrod set-up has slack and is not optimum. I've modified my pushrod to make it adjustable.

I'll post if I find anything new.

Re'

AllThrottle4U

iTrader: (14)

Actually it is adjustable, as it wears the clutch tries to keep the pedal engagement at the same height. What has happened is the pressure plate is at the farthest point to the wrong side. It needs to be adjusted so the fingers come out farther towards the transmission. If there were no clutch disk between the flywheel and the pressure plate the fingers would go further out. It's the fulcrum point at which the finger springs are connected to the pressure plate. I'm trying to explain but I don't think im doing a good job, sorry. Bottom line is the pressure plate is normally self adjustable, mine has not self adjusted because the flywheel is warped, which gm has already issued a service bulletin for. The only other reason I can think of is because the disk is not fully "unsandwhiched", so the pressure plate cannot "slip" so to speak and adjust itself. Can someone else clarify? Thanks

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Think what you want but mine went in fine & my car drives. So whats that tell ya?? Obviously I know what the hell I'm talkin about on these clutches. If you got a warped flywheel you must have got a old one. They had that problem long ago with messed up flywheels but has since not been a issue. I bought mine last year & its fine.

They are a DIRECT BOLT IN replacement. You think the vendors on here would sell them stating this if they were not?? When I did mine I kept my stock 99' hydrolics that now have 103k on them, installed a new slave, LS2 flywheel & LS7 clutch. My pilot was in great shape so I left it alone.

Hit it with the mity vac for about 30 minutes @ 12 psi per the directions I had & it has ran perfect every since.

I think you might have fubared something in your hydrolics with the mity vac. Your not supposed to go to 20 on that thing & if you go to high you can actually **** up the master internally. It definetly had enough pressure on it to do that @ 20 & on there all night.

AllThrottle4U

iTrader: (14)

Calm down man, i'm not calling you out. I'm trying to come to some "other" conclusions. I'm not the only one with problems and this clutch, I think everyone can benefit if we think collectively and objectively. Why is everyone having trouble with the clutch engaging right off the floor when first installed for the first few hundred miles? Why when people can't get the gears to go in and change the slave and the master the problem still exists? There has to be more to it than air in everyones lines. BTW 20 psi is not that much, there are way more pressures in the system when you press the pedal to disengage the clutch, especially my old ram stage 4 pressure plate. The only thing it might do is pull little air bubbles through the plunger seal, I've since bled it 3 times. Has anyone actually tried to adjust the ls7 pp on a bench at home? I know theres a write up on the manufacturers site, but it's very vague. What tools are needed? Thanks