nilestracing

Ok im almost done with my 6.0 engine swap in my ta. Im wanting to tell every one what a complete pain in the a$$ this project has been. Almost everything on a 6.0l truck is different than a standard ls1. And i say im about the only one right now thats got this far with a 6.0 project, or they used differnt cranks etc. heres what I ran into. First going into this project I was inder the impression that the only differences in the 6.0l block and the ls1 block on the outside was that obvious its iron and secound you have to drill one hole for the alt bracket wrong. Im here to say whoever said that didnt build one, I did. I have invested about 5000 dollars in my engine swap alone and it still isnt running lol. i ran into a bunch of problems small one but heres what they intel. first the front and back covers are different the oil pan, the dipstick, the windage tray and all mounting bolts, the valley pan ls6 must be used, not bad 88 new from gm includes bolts and gasket, the oil pickup tube and o ring then once you get this far you figure out you work on the alt bracket and it is acctually mising a bolt hole for the alt to bolt too so your screwed on that part, I hope it still works might have to convert to corvette stlye acc, alt on top don't know yet. then when you get there the next thing the crank is different it wont work with a 6speed and anyone that says they have one go take a magnet to the block the crank sticks out too far in the back and you have to either a cut your end on your input shaft or b put in a 400 turbo like I <font color="red"> <!--color--></font> might have to do. Just trying to clear up some stuff incase your thinkin of doing a swap. matt

BIG PD

why didn't u just use...6.0 heads? are you trying to make like a super duper turbo car or something?

BYBYC5

hmmmm dont know what the problem is, ive done it twice and the only diff is the alt bolthole and if you have a M6 you need to use a stock 5.7 crank. other than that its all the same, maybe you got a bum deal.everything from my 5.7 went onto or into my 6.0 block (cept pistons of course) front/back cover,valey cover etc....

Sears

Did you use a 99-00 6.0L block?

Justin

nilestracing

I used a 01 6.0 block with 4.8 heads bc the factory pistons are low compression pistons and I like the cc of the 4.8 heads. im this far id almost sell the whole motor every thing and 6 speed trans for 5000 and just go back bone stock. this swap is such a pain.At this point im looking for a 400 turbo trans to trade for my t56 so i dont have to cut my shaft down on it. also the covers have the same mounting patteren excep the covers on a fbody have recessed bolt holes and the ones on a 6.0 don't and it wont clear anythink like manifold etc matt

Brains

iTrader: (7)

There are a few differences, which is why you use only the BLOCK from the truck -- everything else you should transfer from your stock motor.. The alternator bracket is the only troublesome part, and even that isn't a big deal. It'll even hold with two bolts if you're brave That corner bolt up front isn't really necessary (the one where there's no bolt boss behind the bracket). Ignore it.

The crankshaft should have come from your LS1 motor, to make things simple. I can't remember which are what, but some trucks used a crankshaft and a shim while others used a longer crank to put the flexplate farther back. Maybe it's the trucks which get the 4L80E vs the 4L60E or something? I seriously can't remember, but I heard about it somewhere. Sounds like you have the wrong crankshaft, but you can "fix" it by spacing the transmission back if you have access to some plate steel and cutting tools. You could always swap the crank too... You should definitely be using the F-body covers, and an LS6 valley cover has the oil separator -- a nice addition anyway.

Beyond the minor issue of the alt. bolt hole, the 6.0L is a 100% direct swap if you use the block alone. The crank issue is one of those 'gotchas' if you didn't notice the length difference before hand, as I know they definitely had two different length cranks go into the 6L's ... Everything else should have been a non-issue, using the F-body parts..

nilestracing

Exactly I agree with everything but the shiming of the trans, the trans will sit farther back and theres not enough slop between the yoke and trans to work so you would have to cut down your drive shaft but i cant mines aluminum. Im gonna grind down my input shaft tomorrow and tell every one how it works. Bye the way a guy told me from a big speed shop that the two crank journal sizes are different and they wont interchange any one ever heard of this?

BYBYC5

the journals are the same

nilestracing

The cranks must be changed over in the 6.0l to the 5.7l crank no way around it, anyone gotta used one lying around?

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

You CAN cut an aluminum drive shaft to size.

Jeffrey

Lesrace82

iTrader: (8)

Kind of off topic, but what displacement do you get putting the 5.7 crank in the 6.0 block?

slow

iTrader: (7)

the 5.7 and 6.0 cranks are the same stroke i believe, so you should get a 6.0.

There is just a difference in the design, that does not allow the 4L60e tranny to work correctly, with some/all 6.0 cranks.

Ryan.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Yep, same stroke... with a 4.030 bore (+0.030 from stock) it turns out to be 370 cid...

Sorry to hear you have to swap cranks

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

You need to drill the outside alt bracket hole, and the middle one is not needed. It works fine. I have an extra stock 5.7 crank, but it got banged around when I lost a piston and rod. Journals still look great with 34,000 miles on it. My friend sells them if you are interested in buying one also. PM me if your interested. Everything else was a direct crossover from the alluminum block. I am getting ready to do another one as soon as the machine work is done.

Vents

iTrader: (9)

i really dont see how it could have been any easier on my swap. the only part i used of the 6.0 stuff was the block itself, and the only complication was the missing bolt hole for the alternator and so far, spinning it to 7k i havent had a single problem with only 2 bolts in that bracket. i really dont know what could be so difficult about this swap. somone else on here had actually swapped in a pullout 6.0 with stock internals and the 6.0 crank w/o any mentionable problems. whats the deal here? this literally is the easiest engine swap i've ever done, in fact, it's like one big bolt-on.

rodent

iTrader: (1)

A 99-00 6.0 crank must be machined down at the rear to work with LS1 trannies.

A 01-03 6.0 will work fine since no machining is needed.

I purchased a used 01 6.0 crank and I did see the difference at the rear when compared to a 99 6.0 crank.

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

Could a Scat 4.0" crank be used in a 01+ block?

nilestracing

exactly what I found out now. I ordered a 01 z06 crank and im gonna use it does anyone know what the differences are in the z06 crank and the ls1 i know they are different bc i called gm and they are two totally different part numbers?

nilestracing

I was anting to know if any one know what kinda performance i should expect from my 6.0l swap heres what ill be runnin.6.0 iron block 4.8 p and p heads 918 springs fdral mogul bearings clearenced .030 X1 cam qtp 1 7/8 lts slp maf lid ftra, no cats just turn downs ls6 pcv conversion and intake no emissions no ac ramclutch 4.56 with eaton posi nitto 555r's tuned through ls1 edit just wanted to see if anyone is running a smilar setup will aslo have a 300 shot tnt?

LQ4forsale

I have a complete LQ4 for sale. It is a full long block that came out of a 2003 Hummer H2 with 1,000 miles on it. I'm looking to get $1,700 for it. I live in MI if you would like to try and estimate shipping charges. Let me know if anybody is interested, you guys know what this motor is worth. E-mail me with any questoins for quicker responses.