z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Bit of a newb question, but I just finishied my first cam swap about three weeks ago and ever since, I've had a leak. I followed the ls1howto.com write up which was awesome, but I still leak.

My question, where exactly does the RTV have to go on the oil pan?

The first try I covered the bottom of the front cover and pressed it down onto the pan. The second try I RTVd almost the entire pan, at least where I could get it anyway. Third try I cleaned off all the RTV I could and just put a small amount of RTV where the front cover, the block, and the oil pan all come together at each corner of the front cover. Each attempt yielded less leak, but it still leaks.

If some one could post exactly where the hell this RTV goes I'd really appreciate it. You may need to write it like you're talking to a 3-year old, because I'm hacking it up over here.

Last thing, the car has 123,000 miles, is it possible the gasket is just done and I'm going to have to swap it out. I really don't want to do that.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Did you align the oil pan when torquing (sp?) down the bolts?

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

,,,,how about the seal in the front cover? Did you use a new one? And is the cover centered to the crank? Are you sure nothing got pinched in the gasket surface?

bsf

iTrader: (7)

Do you know for sure where the leak is?

In response to your actual inquiry, I applied it to the entire bottom of the front cover and left a little blob on the ends, left and right, to help guard against a leak where the engine block, front cover, and oil pan meet. And hell yes I think you should have replaced the front cover gasket with 123k miles. I replaced mine with only 19k on the engine.

wkniffin98ss

iTrader: (1)

It is always a good idea to change gaskets and things as you come across them, especially with your mileage.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

The first time, I screwed up and never actually loosened the to 13mm bolts on the bell housing. I had to pry gently on the front of the oil pan to get the pick-up tube bolt out. So the second time, I got the pan completely free and aligned it by hand tightening the 10mm bolts then torquing down the bell housing bolts, then torqueing down the 10mm bols.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Front cover gasket is brand new, yes I centered the cover and the crank seal is absolutely dry.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure it's comming from the front corners of the pan/front cover. I usually find som oil dripping off the front of the crossmember and the two bolts on the front of the oil pan. It's a very slow drip and it seems to do it most when the cars is under load. In fact I've left it idle for 10 minutes and not a drop, but if I go for a drive, it blows back all over the car.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Waqs really hoping to avoid changing the oil pan gasket, anyone know an easy way withouy pulling the pan?

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

Jeez, I hope the pan didn't crack.

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

I knew that would sound bad. It's didn't seem like that big a deal at the time, and really I only pry'd it open a bit, not even a 1/4 og an inch, by putting a small screw driver between the block and the pan on the passenger side. I could barely get my wrench on the bolt and I had to loop some fishing line around the bolt becasue I couldn't even get my fingers in their to pull the bolt out, so that should tell you I didn't pry it that much. Oh yea, no bad crack sounds either. I do worry that maybe part of the problem, but not because the pan is cracked, more liked I gauged the seal in some way, but I'm pretty certain I'm leaking from the driver side too. I don't know, I'm probably going to have to change the damn gasket.

Not a whole lot of leak today BTW, I wonder if maybe their a slim chance the sucker will just seal up.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

You only need to put RTV in the corners where the the front and rear covers meet the oil pan and block. The gaskets will seal everywhere else. Aligning and tightening the oil pan and covers properly is also necessary for it not to leak.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

id get a new gasket the k member aint that bad to drop if ya got a lift or some tall jackstands....for some stupid reason the factory gasket is rivited on.....you may as well drop the pan and do rod bolts....the new gasket is gonna cost about 50 bucks....as far as the glue apply a small dab at each corner where the covers meet the block.....the gasket on my 98 looked like crap....

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

I've got access to a lift and an engine hoist, so I'll probably end up doing that. I hadn't thought about doing the rod bolts while I'm in there. How hard a job is that?

I think I'll drop the pan one more time this weekend and try and RTV the corners one more time before I go through the hassle of taking the pan off the car. I'll try and make sure I get the RTV in the right spots. I don't think I hit the rear corners well at all, I couldn't really see where the rear cover meets the pan to apply the RTV.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

its not bad at all with the k member out of the way theres a thread with pics where i just done mine....

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a link for the thread, search is still messed up. I take it you still have to hold the motor up with an engine hoist though right?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Its actually a sticky

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/675343-rod-bolt-install-write-up.html

z28ss4me

iTrader: (2)

Man I hat it when I do that...