Getting new heads, which header bolts should I use?
#1
Getting new heads, which header bolts should I use?
I'm picking up some TSP 5.3L Stage 2.5 Heads, so I'm looking to see what I should do for bolts. I re-used my stockers the first time around. I have them back out now getting ready to pull the heads, but they look a little beat. I'm sure the cosmetic look is not affecting the bolt itself. I do have the bolt that Kooks sent with my headers, but the head is way bigger than 10mm. Probably standard. Should I re-use my stockers, buy new stockers or use the Kooks bolts in the brand new heads? Thanks.
#2
Originally Posted by SweeTbone
I'm picking up some TSP 5.3L Stage 2.5 Heads, so I'm looking to see what I should do for bolts. I re-used my stockers the first time around. I have them back out now getting ready to pull the heads, but they look a little beat. I'm sure the cosmetic look is not affecting the bolt itself. I do have the bolt that Kooks sent with my headers, but the head is way bigger than 10mm. Probably standard. Should I re-use my stockers, buy new stockers or use the Kooks bolts in the brand new heads? Thanks.
also if u got the kook ones why not use them-save yourself the future expense even though bolts don't cost that much-
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If you have everything apart anyway - I personally wouldn't waste my time on ANY bolts.
Go with ARP Head Studs. They aren't that much more $$ and are worth it for reliability and peace of mind (plus you won't have to worry on future head swaps about getting all water out of tapped head bolt holes in block to prevent block breakage).
Just my .02
-Jay-
Go with ARP Head Studs. They aren't that much more $$ and are worth it for reliability and peace of mind (plus you won't have to worry on future head swaps about getting all water out of tapped head bolt holes in block to prevent block breakage).
Just my .02
-Jay-
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
If you have everything apart anyway - I personally wouldn't waste my time on ANY bolts.
Go with ARP Head Studs. They aren't that much more $$ and are worth it for reliability and peace of mind (plus you won't have to worry on future head swaps about getting all water out of tapped head bolt holes in block to prevent block breakage).
Just my .02
-Jay-
Go with ARP Head Studs. They aren't that much more $$ and are worth it for reliability and peace of mind (plus you won't have to worry on future head swaps about getting all water out of tapped head bolt holes in block to prevent block breakage).
Just my .02
-Jay-
#5
Thanks for the tips fellas, but I already have ARP Head Studs. I'm looking for HEADER bolts, not head bolts. Like I said, the stockers could be cleaned up a little, but I was wondering if that would have any adverse effect if they weren't that clean and if I should just get some new ones.
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Ah, my bad. In that case, I use Breslin Split Lock header bolts or you could go with Stage8 Locking header bolts. Both styles accomplish the same thing but the Breslin's are easier to use.
-Jay-
-Jay-
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Originally Posted by SweeTbone
Thanks for the tips fellas, but I already have ARP Head Studs. I'm looking for HEADER bolts, not head bolts. Like I said, the stockers could be cleaned up a little, but I was wondering if that would have any adverse effect if they weren't that clean and if I should just get some new ones.
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I only have experience w/ stock bolts and Stage 8 bolts. I upgraded to Stage 8 bolts basically because they are shinier. Since they are included, though, I did install all the clips and retainers. I bent almost all the retainers to fit snugly. My header bolts will not be backing out of their own volition.