ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I cannot figgure out what this LT1 fuel injection problem is and it wont start, i can buy an intake and i have everything else, how hard is it to fit a distributor in the back of one of theese? I know the bitch will run then.

Formula_LT1

iTrader: (2)

An LT1 is basically a small block chevy, so it would physically fit, but the problem is the intake. A standard SBC intake or Vortech intake will NOT fit LT1 heads. It would have to be re-drilled or the heads would have to be drilled and tapped. Either way, it may be more work than you want to get into.

Also on a side note. A few buddies and ,yself have already played around with this idea with some junk blocks and old LT1 intakes lying around his garage, but the gear assembly that drops in the back of the LT1 block that turns the oil pump has a slightly different size than the gear on a standard "drop in" style distributer. It may or may not cause a problem, but the only way to find out is if someone were to actually do it. I know the size difference is like a few thousands or something like that, which desn't sound bad, but a couple thousand miles and few 7k RPM twists later, who knows?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Well, i guess you didnt know, GM performance parts sells a LT1 intake that bolts right up, that is the intake i was saying i need to buy, i git regulat SB1 intakes. Well, there was a ground broken and i fixed it, it will spit and sputter here and there, but still no crank up...pisssssing me off. Wanted this junk ready for a car meet tomarrow, guess nooooot.

Formula_LT1

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I knew about the GMPP intake for the LT1, but they do not have a hole for a distributer to dop in. You would have to drill it.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Are you sure? I swear i thought it did.



Yep, there it is, yea, it has it.

jimmydong00

the LT1 cam has a gear for a conventional (rear mount) distributor. I have heard of people machining a hole in the back of the intake to use HEI, but I havent seen the maching process firsthand. I would imagine that it would work ok, though. I have seen a HEI converted LT1 in a firebird and the dist cap fits real nice back in the firewall. I know a carbureted LT1 intake has a hole in the rear for a distributor. I just want to know why you want to carb it? Then it will look like you dropped a first gen in its place. I found this link hope it helps somewhat. http://www.lt1intake.com/services.htm. Oh by the way, just because you want to convert it back to HEI doesnt mean it WILL run there could be gremlins somewhere else.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I'll be amazed if an HEI fits under the cowl of the 4th gen. I'd be surprised if a remote mount coil dist would fit either. You'd need like the Vortec flat spider style. Which would still use all the same electronics though as the Opti. Save for the Opti itself. This is an assumption, but a fairly decent once since I just saw what all the stuff on a Vortec looks like (4.3). It's basically a conventional mount opti-spark. They have a cam sensor built into the distributor. That would be the part you'd have to figure out.

jimmydong00

Sorry, sorry. I meant the third gen. I dont know about the 4th gen. You're right about the flat vortec style cap. Even the regular HEI cap wont fit on the back of the intake it takes the smaller cap from the third gen. How about a crank triggered ignition?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I'd do the Ford EDIS conversion (crank trigger) before I did a carb + HEI conversion.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

No an HEI won't fit. You will be hard pressed to get the small HEI in there.

I think you need some one to help you.

Go back to the basics. It HAS to have fuel and fire If you have fuel it must be fire and visa versa. You can check fuel easy. Put a pressure gauge on it and run power to the wire hanging out of the harness near the A/C box and PCM. If you get 40PSI or so move on the the ignition system. I like to first check for spark at the coil. Pull off the coil wire and use a spare spark plug and wire to check spark. If you have spark move on to the spark plugs and do the same check.

if not I use a spare opti and try again. Plug the opti into the harness(un-plug the one on the car) anf use a drile to spin it. If you now have spark you have a dead opti. If you don't check to coil and ICM.( I have yet to see a coil or ICM die BTW).

Now if when doing your test on the installed opti you had spark at the coil but not the spark plugs you have a dead cap and rotor


Putting a carb on is not the answer Some basic Diagnostics is

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Well, i cleaned the cap and rotor with a wire wheel, it did eat the terminols up a bit so there is more gap than usual, should i try replacing the cap and rotor? I hate to spend evtra money for nothing but it might be the problem, i tested a couple of wires with a teast light and they sis gey spark, maybe not getting enough?

Fbodynightmare

iTrader: (2)

dude its worth trying the new cap and rotor b/c of the rig job on your dist. We knew you might run into problems!

Formula_LT1

iTrader: (2)

Oh well, thought it didn't. One of my buddys has a carb/drop in distributer setup ona 94 Z-28 of his. As far as the drop in Dist. fiting under the cowl, I don't think most of them will, but he had a real low profile MSD or Malory that fit fairly well. He had to put it in as he set the intake on though, and also ha to trim the wiper cowl for the carb to have any clearence at all.

BTW. Try not be such a dick head next time you make a post.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Never mind....for now.