Manual Transmission - New clutch problems

I've recently installed a LS7 clutch in my Camaro and since then I've had clutch disengagement issues. I've bleed close to a gallon of brake fluid through the system so I'm fairly sure there is no air in it. The pedal also feels good. Problem is the clutch won't disengage enough to get it in gear. It's close, if I start the car in gear it barely creeps with the pedal down.

My question is, I bought the slave cylinder used with about 10k on it from a board member. When I got it, it had a thin spacer (about .040) behind it which I did not install. Was I supposed to put this in?? I'm about at my wits end here and actually consittering buying a stock clutch to see if it fixes the problem. :bang:

Re'

I've recently installed a LS7 clutch in my Camaro and since then I've had clutch disengagement issues. I've bleed close to a gallon of brake fluid through the system so I'm fairly sure there is no air in it. The pedal also feels good. Problem is the clutch won't disengage enough to get it in gear. It's close, if I start the car in gear it barely creeps with the pedal down.

My question is, I bought the slave cylinder used with about 10k on it from a board member. When I got it, it had a thin spacer (about .040) behind it which I did not install. Was I supposed to put this in?? I'm about at my wits end here and actually consittering buying a stock clutch to see if it fixes the problem. :bang:

Re'
i have the SAME xact problem with my mcleod twin and adjustable mster. how much travel do you have before you get resistance?

How many miles have you driven? First, that spacer would help because it's going to move the throw-out bearing that much closer to the pressure plate springs. If you haven't driven it yet, get it in and run it for a while. As it breaks in, the pedal engagement point will move up off the floor. This should happen fairly quick though (less than 50 miles). If you've already driven it and still have the problem, put the spacer in and try it again. If that's the case, I'd go with a thicker spacer like the ones Spec includes with there kits.

i have the SAME xact problem with my mcleod twin and adjustable mster. how much travel do you have before you get resistance?

I've made the stock master cylinder adjustable, with the play adjusted out of the linkage, I only get about 3/4" of pedal movement before it's solid.

How many miles have you driven? First, that spacer would help because it's going to move the throw-out bearing that much closer to the pressure plate springs. If you haven't driven it yet, get it in and run it for a while. As it breaks in, the pedal engagement point will move up off the floor. This should happen fairly quick though (less than 50 miles).

I can't drive the car because the clutch won't disengage to put it in gear or to shift gears. The few times I've moved the car I have to start it in gear.

Re'

do you guys think the slave spacer will work? i mean if everything measres within spec and it still wont disenguage maybe this will help.

The LS7 clutch is a direct replacement, no shim should be installed with it.

With an LS7 unit you should not need a shim, as mentioned above. That being said, as I mentioned in another thread, I am currently looking at part variance for the stock hydraulic assembly (Slave and Master). What Slave/Master are you using (LS1 or LS7)? What are the part numbers? Let me know. Thanks!!

With an LS7 unit you should not need a shim, as mentioned above. That being said, as I mentioned in another thread, I am currently looking at part variance for the stock hydraulic assembly (Slave and Master). What Slave/Master are you using (LS1 or LS7)? What are the part numbers? Let me know. Thanks!!

Not sure of the part number as the stuff is installed. Bought the master and slave used off a board member with about 10-15k on them from a 01. The master is suppposed to be the newer design.

Re'

So I've put about 75 miles on the car and the clutch pedal is comming up. Problem is the clutch still will not disangage and it won't go in gear without killing the engine. I'm starting to think maybe the clutch disc is hung up on the input shaft and draging against the flywheel or pressure plate.

Anybody got any other ideas before I pull the trans to inspect it???

Re'

did you machine the flywheel? and if so how much?

did you machine the flywheel? and if so how much?

Brand new LS7 flywheel.

try adjusting your master.

I'm having same problem in my chevelle with lq4 and t56 had stock master and slave, worked great but the ati bracket put master at too great a angle and i bent the rod, since i put on a wilwood master and no dice clutch disc will not disengage please inform me so i can address my issue. Shes all dressed up with no place to go

Ok this is wat i found out, its a possibility that your flywheel has been surfaced too thin, or if the pilot bearing is messed up your clutch will not disengage, or if disc is hung up on input shaft so drop that trans again and access ur prob

OP, before you end up breaking anything, pull your tranny out and measure for a shim. There is a great shim measurement write up somewhere here on this board.
The LS1 and LS7 clutches are not completely identical. The TOB on the LS7 slave sits a fraction of an inch closer to the PP fingers than on an LS1 slave.
And not every slave is exactly the same. You should measure for a shim with every clutch install just to be sure. That 3/4" travel you have before the pedal gets solid is the distance the TOB is traveling before it touches the PP fingers. A shim will put the TOB closer to the fingers and shorten that distance. The shorter the gap, the longer the throw you'll have on the clutch.