Irish350

iTrader: (14)

okay, so at the beginning of my build it took like 2 weeks to get my crank hub off, and now i cant get the mother ****** back on. can someone enlighten me?

and dont say "just go rent an installer" cause they dont work. i have one sitting in my garage.

EDIT: okay, so i read about this in another thread (doh! search..) and im wonedring if theres anyone in AZ that can help me out?

the western section is kinda ftl...

smoknta

Why doesn't the installer work?

You could try putting it in the oven for a few minutes to heat it up, that will usually heat it up enough to expand it and make it easy to put it on. I have never had an issue with mine, so I have not had to do that.

383lt1impala

iTrader: (33)

ok well my bro put the hub on and tighted the bolt till it was centerd he did **** up the thread but we have thread taps or what ever there called and it worked i didnt like the way we did it but we had 2

3pnt4maro

iTrader: (2)

we used a torch and heated it up so it would slip on better...took some massaging but it worked

ckyconan2003

iTrader: (2)

hey irish, order a new keyed hub from cncmotorsports if your crank can be keyed. but what you have to do is get a 7/16 20 thread 5-6" bolt with some large washers. the bolt is hard to find. What i did personally was to use the origanal bolt and removed the washer and then got it finger tight.

I totally agree with you about this hub. my car sat for a week because i couldnt get the POS thing back on.

9730thanvz28

iTrader: (1)

pull number 1 plug. make sure its tdc and arrow goes straight up. even though the hub isnt keyed there is still a correct way to install according to GM. take a dead blow hammer and tap it on. might work that way. what I had to do.

rasputin

iTrader: (3)

hey buddy, we used a torch to get mine back on. since your motor is still in your car, I dont know what to tell you

3pnt4maro

iTrader: (2)

and on the worst product comment.....i think you underestimated the OPTI..That gets my vote

1bdbrd

iTrader: (12)

Do a cz28.com search for a homemade installer that a guy made. Basically its a threaded rod with some washers and 2 nuts to push it on. That way the pressure is on the threaded rod and not the threads in your crank. I started installing mine with the stock bolt until it wouldn't push it on any further. I'm going to take the bolt out and put the rod in once I get back to it.

9730thanvz28

iTrader: (1)

its really not that bad to put on while the engine is in the car. I did it in under 10 mins. take a dead blow hammer. get the balancer lined up so it isnt on weird. start tapping it on. ull get it far enough use ur OLD bolt and thread it in by hand. after ur sure its threaded in a fair amount let the bolt pull it on the rest of the way. replace with new bolt and ur good to go.

smoknta

And hope you dont rip the threads on your crank out. They make tools for this, always a good idea to use the correct tool for the job.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I have used the crank bolt so many times and nothing ever came of it but work. But i did make sure it cought more than couple of threads before i started cranking down on her.

9730thanvz28

iTrader: (1)

right, and if ur not sure if u have enough caught enough threads, hit it with a dead blow a few more times.

moserman

iTrader: (7)

i had the motor out of the car but i took a hammer and beat on it and it slipped back on with some massaging, i agree though its the worst LT1 part by far, even over the opti. (only for people who have dealt with installing or uninstalling one of these)

9730thanvz28

iTrader: (1)

they are not bad at all. you guys must have just had a bad encounter. i had mine on in under 10 mins. while engine was in car. heat the hub up, try a hammer. find the bolt and use the washer nut trick.

rkinney

I purchased the j-tool (j-39046) years ago and has come in handy many times. Comes off and goes on easily every time with no beating on anything. First time the hub ever came off I replaced it with a keyed unit.

pearlwhitez28

the reason the crank pulley is hard to remove is because its a freakin lt1, the lt1 engine requires a special lt1 crank pulley remover. thats right i ran into that problem a couple of years ago when i installed my underdrive pulleys well i didnt do it i had a performance shop in tucson,az (thats where i lived at the moment) do it for me they had that lt1 pulley remover/installer. i dont know where you would find it maybe summit or jegs or gm direct. the pulley remover you rent from the auto parts store doesnt work i broke two of them..good luck

i420tom

iTrader: (11)

They are talking about the HUB not the balancer/pulley. The balancer/ pulley is CAKE. The hub (that the pulley bolts to with three bolts) is the PITA. It is held to the crank by one bolt and the snug fit.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Well, i have had to remove many on GEN1s also, so they are not LT1 exclusive.