SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

I am currently using Redline 10W40 synthetic oil in my car, but I am thinking about changing over to Royal Purple. One of the main reasons for switching over is that I dont want to have to order the Redline and pay shipping etc, and plus its a little bit more expensive. I can get the Royal Purple local here, and I think its a few dollars cheaper. My question is, how does it perform compared to the Redline oil and which one should I get?? I believe everyone says to get the RP 41 oil, and that is the same as 10W40 if memory serves me correct. I would appreciate the oil guru's to chime in.

Brian

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

I only use castrol gtx 20-50, a buddy of mine usto use royal purple in his race engines till he was allways having over heating problems and kept wearing them and seizeing them, untill he changed oil, I cannot reccomend the roal purple, but if you could see my cylinder walls after about 50k miles and many many bottles of nitrous I think you would be useing the castrol, I was astounded


edit: and if you have a high mileage engine or one that gets pleanty of neglect I'd reccomend the lucas engine oil(usually 1qt lucas and the rest reg. oil)

14u2nv

I use Royal Purple 5w30 street version and have good luck so far but I also change my oil every 2000-3000 miles. I am going to switch over to 5w30 Redline and try that just for comparison sake.

SSDude

Redline is in a class all by itself. Definitely the best.

Patman

Redline is considerably better than Royal Purple, it uses a better base oil, has a better additive package, has better film strength and has shown considerably lower wear numbers in oil analysis reports. Redline maintains it's viscosity very well too, while Royal Purple thins out quite badly in many cases.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

I hate to always harp on you like this but how can you say Redline has a better additive package when Royal Purple's additive package is proprietary and has yet to be figured out by anyone? Also there was absolutely no thinning in my analysis of my RP 41 that I posted last summer,and the wear #s were excellent . Patman you should say " I prefer Redline" so that you don't have to back up false statements. You don't have any experience withg RP race oils.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Brian RP #41 will cost you more than Redline. #41 is about $9 per quart by the case of 12.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Thanks for replies so far. From what I have read before, Redline seemed like a better oil and thats why I went with it to begin with. Thanks for the replies and keep them coming. (My engine isnt a high mileage motor, and has about 50K on it.)

Brian

JS

iTrader: (4)

Well I have used both and I WONT use either of them anymore.U should see my cyl. walls not to mention that my rings never seated correctly causing leakdown.It like the syn. never let the cyl. walls break in not to mention the rings either?

I'm going back to conventional oil.
Valvoline or Castrol 10/30 is going in my car

This syn. mumbo jumbo is for the birds.
Just change your oil every 3K and run a good dino.

Patman

Not all of it is proprietary, I've got a new oil analysis on it that I sent out last year which shows a good portion of it's additive package and it's not really anything special:

Moly-112ppm
Magnesium-11ppm
Zinc-867ppm
Phosphorus-786ppm
Calcium-1670ppm
TBN-8
Viscosity-11.4cst at 100c (which quickly thinned out to 8.8cst in my wife's car after just 2600 miles)

I didn't get the boron content in the new sample, but in the used sample it came up under 7ppm. Comparing this makeup to that of Redline, it's got a lot less desirable package. Like I've said a lot of times, out of all the RP UOAs I've seen, not a single one has impressed me yet, even yours with RP 41. It just seems like too many people are going on blind faith with this oil without any results to back it up. But yet Redline has proven itself time and time again with stellar results. So why take a chance with your expensive motor?