installing my powerbond pulley how much more do i have to go till its seated??**pics*
08-25-2007, 04:27 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by billybadd
Looks like it is seated all the way. Hit it with a good 1/2" impact gun. I think they require 240 ft. lbs. An impact will take care of that.
Yeah right.
You got a long way to go to seat it.
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08-25-2007, 07:22 PM
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i have no pressure in my clutch right now but its in gear. do i have the blead the clutch then try?? im running a double roller timing chain i dont see how its gonna go on any more??.
lookin at my friends motor (same motor out of car) it doesnt look like its gonna go all the way on.
lookin at my friends motor (same motor out of car) it doesnt look like its gonna go all the way on.
08-25-2007, 10:38 PM
#10
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You should really STOP right now before this turns to the dark side; I feel stripped crank threads coming on.
1. The inside diameter of the Powerbond pulley may be on the "tight" side, and may require honing.
2. Still a long way to go, not seated yet. The factory manual specifies the proper snout to hub distance. Of the top of my head it's 2mm~5mm, but DO NOT take that as gospel.
3. You should utilize a "pulley installation tool". i.e. a threaded rod / washers / nut assembly so that you aren't stressing the crank threads. Do a search on this, you'll understand and thank us later.
1. The inside diameter of the Powerbond pulley may be on the "tight" side, and may require honing.
2. Still a long way to go, not seated yet. The factory manual specifies the proper snout to hub distance. Of the top of my head it's 2mm~5mm, but DO NOT take that as gospel.
3. You should utilize a "pulley installation tool". i.e. a threaded rod / washers / nut assembly so that you aren't stressing the crank threads. Do a search on this, you'll understand and thank us later.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 08-25-2007 at 10:43 PM.
08-25-2007, 10:56 PM
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bought an install tool from a member here and it looks really good. $44 shipped. I'm a few weeks away from my 1st cam swap so no feedback but a lot of people like it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
08-26-2007, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by massls1guy
bought an install tool from a member here and it looks really good. $44 shipped. I'm a few weeks away from my 1st cam swap so no feedback but a lot of people like it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391883
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391883
08-26-2007, 12:27 AM
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Just a thought on my ls1 with a double roller timing chain my tsp pully had to have extra machineing to work with the double timing chain. check link http://ls1howto.com/howto/fbody/cams...p_machined.jpg
08-26-2007, 08:05 AM
#15
I know it's not a Powerbond pulley, but I just installed an ASP pulley and after searching on here, I baked it at 225 for about a 1/2 hour. It slid on like butter and I was able to seat it with the old bolt by hand before installing the new bolt and torqueing it down.
08-26-2007, 09:05 AM
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I used one of these to keep the crank from turning on my LS1 Camaro with an march underdrive pulley:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
If this tool works with your pulley, it's a good way to go. You can put a long breaker bar on it and let it hit on the bottom of the frame on the passenger side (on a f body anyway) to keep it from turning. To install I used a longer bolt I picked up at Ace hardware, and my stock bolt once it was on part of the way, a 2' breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar (pipe from lowes).
By doing it this way the crank did not turn at all and I was able to feel when the pulley bottomed out. Then remove the bolt, put in the new bolt, torque to 37 ft lbs and then turn another 100 degrees or so.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
If this tool works with your pulley, it's a good way to go. You can put a long breaker bar on it and let it hit on the bottom of the frame on the passenger side (on a f body anyway) to keep it from turning. To install I used a longer bolt I picked up at Ace hardware, and my stock bolt once it was on part of the way, a 2' breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar (pipe from lowes).
By doing it this way the crank did not turn at all and I was able to feel when the pulley bottomed out. Then remove the bolt, put in the new bolt, torque to 37 ft lbs and then turn another 100 degrees or so.
08-26-2007, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by speeddemongto
whoa wait a second how come that powerbond doesnt look like the one I got for my GTO?
His looks like the same one I put on my Vette.
08-26-2007, 09:53 AM
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can someone on here confirm that i have to take this pulley back off to have it machined because it wont work with a double roller???.........****!
08-26-2007, 10:07 AM
#19
Double roller may be an issue, did you check with Powerbond? Also, if you are using a bolt to install, the crank threads are likely FUBAR. I just installed one of these two days ago, went right on. BUT, I also measured the ID of the pulley and the OD of the crank, there is a very specific interference fit. Also, you should use anti-seize while installing. You "may" have galled the crank snout if you didn't follow the correct procedure.
08-26-2007, 10:09 AM
#20
Originally Posted by santiago
im trying to tighten it more but it keeps rotating the crank how do i stop it from rotating so i can tighten it more??