Who do yall reccomend for a clutch?
#1
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Who do yall reccomend for a clutch?
Yall can read y mods, ima need to have the clutch replaced soon cause its dying. I have seen a few on Ebay such as "XTD" and "F1". Anyone heard of those two guys? or have any reccomendations for a clutch? I dont want something as hard as a spec 3 clutch. and i'd like to spend under 350 for it. Ima get a billet RAM flywheel too btw.
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i have a spec stage 2 and it is very drivable for an aftermarket clutch, also i have heard good things about RAM.my billet steel flywheel rattles a lot however, and i'm not a huge fan or that but i deal with it, as it was expected for a lighter flywheel.
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My vote is Spec 3. I have over 5000 mileson it and easily 60 launches at the track with it and it still holding up great! Not to bad for street driving ethier holds the power with out slipping.
Derek
Derek
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See if you can get a powergrip disk from ram and use a stock pressure plate. IF you dont have the money. But here's the deal I have the most $$$ Ram clutch for a LT1 and i love it. It's the PowerGrip HD. Drives great and holds everytime. If you can buy 1 clutch and spend little more, it's better than pulling the trany to but another cheap one in, in a short time.
Yeah by looking @ your sig, you will burn a stock clutch up quick. And The HDX is a stock disk with a better sprung hub and a stronger clamp on the PP. The powergrip or the Spec 3 is the least i'd get for your car or your wasting your money.
Yeah by looking @ your sig, you will burn a stock clutch up quick. And The HDX is a stock disk with a better sprung hub and a stronger clamp on the PP. The powergrip or the Spec 3 is the least i'd get for your car or your wasting your money.
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WS6 store has them:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6af597d7407dd8
I would go with this:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6af597d7407dd8
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6af597d7407dd8
I would go with this:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...6af597d7407dd8
#15
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I have a spec stage 2 and dont like it. Like, if you wanted to launch everytime you started from a stand still, yeah.. it'd be okay but, I dont. I like to be able to drive smoothly yet have that much needed holding power if I decide to get a little crazy. The spec just grabs to hard and there's no smooth engagement on mine. I have driven a buddies with a RAM HDX and it felt so much closer to stock yet held up great when I got on it. I have a RAM HDX and new Billet flywheel in the box waiting to go in.
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I've got a RAM Powergrip HD clutch in my car, absolutely love it. Give it 300 miles or so of easy driving to break it in then slam on it, every now and then i'll get a little bit of chatter. Great even for dailydriving, on or off the bottle. As for spending under 350 on it, not going to happen with any (good) performance clutch.
#17
dont go spec stage 1, i had one in my c5 cam only car and a small cam at that lasted 9k 1 trip to the dragstip and a 3000k launch on dr's. NOT good! save a lil more money for the spec 3, im assuming you did all the work to the car? you spent enough on everything else dont go cheap on one of the main components of your cars performance, a bad clutch doesnt get you anywhere fast
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spec 2 or 2+ but i wouldnt go with a 3 because being a puck style clutch i have heard alot or horror stories about them always chattering and under heavy power i have heard stories of them blowing apart and taking guys toes off. a 2 is whats on my car an i love it. i know a guy who has a 2+ that sprays a 150 shot and it holds fine so a 2+ is all youll need unless your planning on a 10 sec. or faster car.
besides all aftermarket clutches use the same LT4 pressure plate the only difference is the clutch discs themselves
here are some pics of my SPEC stage 2.
besides all aftermarket clutches use the same LT4 pressure plate the only difference is the clutch discs themselves
here are some pics of my SPEC stage 2.
Last edited by MadMike 97 Z28; 08-27-2007 at 12:17 AM.
#19
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i have a 3 and love it for holing the power but i drive the car daily so i would buy a 2 if i had to do it over. If you need it to hold the power, well you get what you paid for so its up to yoou and your needs. Mine has about 25,000 miles on it but took about 1,500 to brake it in fully. Lots of chatter lately,but I can drop it a 5 grand and not worry.
#20
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any guides or tips for replacing the sucker? I know what has to be done to get the tranny and bell housing off. i just wondering what are some things that i need to know? Cause i removed the motor and trany last time and continued to remove the tranny outside the car.