I Need pics of engine being pulled from bottom!!! Please
09-10-2007, 11:53 PM
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I Need pics of engine being pulled from bottom!!! Please Alright, ive always pulled my LT1 threw the top, but this time ima try the bottom, but all i have is a cherry picker and some small jack stands, what else should i get, anyone got pics of them doing this, it would help alot. Thanks
I was told to hold car up with hoist, then put it on stands, unhook hoist and roll it out with engine on top of it.
I was told to hold car up with hoist, then put it on stands, unhook hoist and roll it out with engine on top of it.
09-11-2007, 05:55 AM
#2
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...ineRemoval.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348183/6
I've done 25 pulls now all through the bottom and only a few with a lift. We use this cart we made...
We use some wheels/tires under the back to get it high enough. Also we made these stands to hold the car up while we pull it out the front. You ONLY need these if you don't have enough room to roll it out the side.
http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...ineRemoval.htm
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348183/6
I've done 25 pulls now all through the bottom and only a few with a lift. We use this cart we made...
We use some wheels/tires under the back to get it high enough. Also we made these stands to hold the car up while we pull it out the front. You ONLY need these if you don't have enough room to roll it out the side.
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09-11-2007, 10:47 AM
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is there a place to find something that is already made that will fit under the jack stands? I dont have anything tomake nothing like that, thanks.
09-11-2007, 12:34 PM
#10
you can leave the rad. and fans in, just remove all the hoses and leave attached to eng. or rad. whatevers easiest to get at.
I aloways leave the front shocks/knuckles/upper control arms attached to the complete kmember when I pull, but if you do that, you'll have to remove 1 13mm bolt from each side right where the front brake hoses attach to hard lines. there's a bracket right there that will need to be free cause the knuckles will hang out and pull on the hoses.
and, yes, the steel pipes that go from the abs unit down to both front brakes will also come out of the module and stay attached to the kmember. so you gotta remove that heat shield that runs the length of the exh. where it goes close to the frame rail. about 4 10 mm. nuts hold it on, and you gotta pay attention to how the pipes are routed together so you get it back in there the right as your lowering the car back down onto the eng./kmember.
I'll post some pics when I get home of how I did this before I moved and now have a hoist at home.
also, I used 2 standard moving dollies available all over the place, harbor freight is one place to get them. one sideways undr the kmember, and one under the back of the trans. I used a couple 2x4's under the eng. and trans to "shim" so that the eng. is held in place level with how it will go back in later.
one other thing to keep in mind here, is remember that the cherry picker has to fit around whatever you use in the front under the kmember. it sucks when you realize you cant pick up the eng. with the cherry picker cause it wont fit around the dolly or under the kmember cause its too close to the ground.
you can have the eng/trans/headers/ypipe out in about 3-5 hours depending on if you got help or if your familiar with what needs to be done. but putting back in will take longer due to all the routing and bleeding and all. leaving the headers and ypipe on for removal is one of the best bene's of doin it out the bottom. and you can assemble the WHOLE thing before it goes back under the car. instead of piecing everything together inside the car. oh, dont forget about the abs harness' that come out ea. side of the kmember. there is a push in retainer that has to be poped out cause the harness is part of the car thats goin up, not the chassis thats staying down.
chris
I aloways leave the front shocks/knuckles/upper control arms attached to the complete kmember when I pull, but if you do that, you'll have to remove 1 13mm bolt from each side right where the front brake hoses attach to hard lines. there's a bracket right there that will need to be free cause the knuckles will hang out and pull on the hoses.
and, yes, the steel pipes that go from the abs unit down to both front brakes will also come out of the module and stay attached to the kmember. so you gotta remove that heat shield that runs the length of the exh. where it goes close to the frame rail. about 4 10 mm. nuts hold it on, and you gotta pay attention to how the pipes are routed together so you get it back in there the right as your lowering the car back down onto the eng./kmember.
I'll post some pics when I get home of how I did this before I moved and now have a hoist at home.
also, I used 2 standard moving dollies available all over the place, harbor freight is one place to get them. one sideways undr the kmember, and one under the back of the trans. I used a couple 2x4's under the eng. and trans to "shim" so that the eng. is held in place level with how it will go back in later.
one other thing to keep in mind here, is remember that the cherry picker has to fit around whatever you use in the front under the kmember. it sucks when you realize you cant pick up the eng. with the cherry picker cause it wont fit around the dolly or under the kmember cause its too close to the ground.
you can have the eng/trans/headers/ypipe out in about 3-5 hours depending on if you got help or if your familiar with what needs to be done. but putting back in will take longer due to all the routing and bleeding and all. leaving the headers and ypipe on for removal is one of the best bene's of doin it out the bottom. and you can assemble the WHOLE thing before it goes back under the car. instead of piecing everything together inside the car. oh, dont forget about the abs harness' that come out ea. side of the kmember. there is a push in retainer that has to be poped out cause the harness is part of the car thats goin up, not the chassis thats staying down.
chris
09-11-2007, 02:06 PM
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well maybe i can find some premade boxes or something that is pretty solid to make the jack stands taller like you guys did, except the other one, looks like he used 6-12 ton jack stands.
09-11-2007, 03:16 PM
#15
you cna get those large 4 ton jack stands for pretty cheap. safest bet. thinkI paid $20 for a pair of mine. bought 2 pairs just to have around cause there also nice for doin things like trans replacements too where you want the car up high, but still safe, obviously.
