How bad is my rear end?
09-18-2007, 03:44 PM
#1
How bad is my rear end? First, no comments about wasting money on the 10-bolt, please 
The rear end is growling on deceleration. I'm also getting cracking/popping noises going around corners. It appears the sharper the corner, the more upset it becomes with me. If weight shifts too quickly to the rear, I get a metallic pop/crack/bang from the rear when leaving from a stop. I've got a Torsen T2R with 3.73's.
If the rear doesn't break first, I'm going to try to get it to the local gear experts. They'll diagnose it for $65 and credit that fee against the $475 charge for a complete rebuild (assuming I provide every single needed part) with the axle in the car. Having just thrown a few grand at the motor, and another grand last Friday on an unexpected tranny rebuild has left me in a position of having to baby it for a few weeks until funds are replenished. I'm a little paranoid about it stranding me, though.
Based upon my verbal description, the local shop thought the decel growling was the bearings, and the turning was the clutches.
I have a lowering panhard bar setup which is welded to the driver side axle tube for bracing, otherwise I was considering trying to locate a good takeout rear end.
Another other unknown is my exhaust. I have the dual/dual and there is a hanger near the passenger side axle whose spotwelds broke. I put the flange back in the rubber mount and bolted it back on, and it appeared to have clearance over the axle. It still vibrates all over the place, though. I wonder how much of the banging noise is related to the loose exhaust?
So am I risking additional stress by driving it a few miles a day for another couple of weeks? The exhaust isn't critical, it's the rear end which has me nervous. The diff, gears, install kit, fluid and axle stuff will run about $850. Axles another $200 if needed. It's been an expensive season
The rear end is growling on deceleration. I'm also getting cracking/popping noises going around corners. It appears the sharper the corner, the more upset it becomes with me. If weight shifts too quickly to the rear, I get a metallic pop/crack/bang from the rear when leaving from a stop. I've got a Torsen T2R with 3.73's.
If the rear doesn't break first, I'm going to try to get it to the local gear experts. They'll diagnose it for $65 and credit that fee against the $475 charge for a complete rebuild (assuming I provide every single needed part) with the axle in the car. Having just thrown a few grand at the motor, and another grand last Friday on an unexpected tranny rebuild has left me in a position of having to baby it for a few weeks until funds are replenished. I'm a little paranoid about it stranding me, though.
Based upon my verbal description, the local shop thought the decel growling was the bearings, and the turning was the clutches.
I have a lowering panhard bar setup which is welded to the driver side axle tube for bracing, otherwise I was considering trying to locate a good takeout rear end.
Another other unknown is my exhaust. I have the dual/dual and there is a hanger near the passenger side axle whose spotwelds broke. I put the flange back in the rubber mount and bolted it back on, and it appeared to have clearance over the axle. It still vibrates all over the place, though. I wonder how much of the banging noise is related to the loose exhaust?
So am I risking additional stress by driving it a few miles a day for another couple of weeks? The exhaust isn't critical, it's the rear end which has me nervous. The diff, gears, install kit, fluid and axle stuff will run about $850. Axles another $200 if needed. It's been an expensive season
09-18-2007, 03:50 PM
#2
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Its posts like this one that keep me from going to the track....that and the fact that i dont have a trailor. Good luck, i hope you have a happy ending to this one.
09-18-2007, 04:48 PM
#3
I'm in the same boat as you with the rear end. Mine got worse with every drive so I parked it since I have a daily driver truck.
I'm in the process of buying a 9" this week. At this point in the game, why waste almost $1000 to get you back to where you were, it will only break again. $1000 is a very expensive band aid fix.
Put that $1000 into a new 9" and charge the rest. If you have good credit, get a 12 month no interest credit card and pay it off come tax time.
I'm in the process of buying a 9" this week. At this point in the game, why waste almost $1000 to get you back to where you were, it will only break again. $1000 is a very expensive band aid fix.
Put that $1000 into a new 9" and charge the rest. If you have good credit, get a 12 month no interest credit card and pay it off come tax time.
09-18-2007, 07:55 PM
#4
I answered my own question... it wasn't the exhaust. It stopped moving forward about a mile from work and I towed it home.
The application is daily driving, autox, and future HPDE. I've been to the drag strip once in the past 8 years, and that was on street tires. The 9" will probably weigh 40lbs more even if I use an aluminum center section. I also have some uncommon suspension mods in the rear that I would need to insure are compatible with a different rear end.
What would a combo like this cost? Probably close to 3 grand? I swore off credit cards in college and won't return to using them.
Aluminum Strange center section
Nodular Steel Bearing support
Wire tied ring gear bolts
3.70 ratio
Master bearing/install kit
TrueTrac 31 Spline diff with Preload
1350 billet steel pinion yoke
Moser 9" housing/axles for f-body (bolt-on) for 3-channel ABS
The application is daily driving, autox, and future HPDE. I've been to the drag strip once in the past 8 years, and that was on street tires. The 9" will probably weigh 40lbs more even if I use an aluminum center section. I also have some uncommon suspension mods in the rear that I would need to insure are compatible with a different rear end.
What would a combo like this cost? Probably close to 3 grand? I swore off credit cards in college and won't return to using them.
Aluminum Strange center section
Nodular Steel Bearing support
Wire tied ring gear bolts
3.70 ratio
Master bearing/install kit
TrueTrac 31 Spline diff with Preload
1350 billet steel pinion yoke
Moser 9" housing/axles for f-body (bolt-on) for 3-channel ABS
