HaulinaSS

my 01 ss is currently my dd, but my bud just made me a hell of a deal on his D1 procharger turn-ket kit which made 640hp at the wheels with a 6.0l cast iron truck block and a blower cam, fast intake, 42 lbs injectors, headers, exhuast, ect. So i am plan on mine making around the same(same set-up), but my problem is that he has a 9inch and i have a stock 10 bolt. im wanting to know what makes a 10 bolt a piece. Wheres is its weak spots and how can you make it stronger. Do you think the 10-bolt will stay together if i keep the cheap hard rubber street tires on her and feather the clutch..

Gaunt

iTrader: (11)

your 10 bolt will hold if you drive like a grandma, but whats the point


unusable power.

ws.6kid

If you go with 4:10s plan on replacing them often... I am on my third set... 10 bolts suck. The ring gear is to small and the teeth chip easy. Go with the Dana S60 its right in between a 9" and a 12 bolt.

Starion

iTrader: (5)

The answer you're looking for is the 10 bolt is just too small. A 12 bolt and 9" are both bigger. There's nothing inherently flawed with the design or anything, it's just too small for 300+ horses.

Siwel

My 10bolt schucked after I put a bottle on my car..
Every car has a weak point. When you start adding hp you will find that point.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the actual size of the pinion shaft itself is smaller as well as gear size correct?

Really what it comes down to is more contact area. The bigger the actual gear's are the more contact is there to hold. Kind of the same way the wider your tire's are the more contact you make w/the pavement.

^not the best of examples.

WS6 SRT-8

iTrader: (18)

When I got my 9", I put the third member and the 10 bolt with the diff cover off, side by side. The 10 bolt looked like a little toy. I can see why they are weaker.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

mine has been good to me but it is not stock.....motive gears auburn posi moser axles/studs and richmond bearings.....i have a 4000 stall and spayed a 75 shot out of the hole on dot slicks.....if it breaks ill do an 8.8 setup od a 12 bolt....the key to the 10 bolts life is preload.....

LS1 Eddie

iTrader: (2)

What I don't understand is that GM put them in these cars for at least 10 years, knowing that people were going to buy F-Bodies to modify and hammer the hell out of them. They couldn't help us by giving us something similar to what the Mustangs of these years got? At least the 8.8's could be easily upgraded.

LrngCrv

Gotta cut corners to keep the cars cheap somewhere, and most F-bodies are not heavily modded. Would you rather have a transmission that breaks all the time or super weak control arm mounts? After changing the rear end 4th gens are pretty solid cars.

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

Just the overall size of the all the components makes them weaker than the other rears out there. Personally I think that they're somewhat durable when they're stock, I've beaten the snot out of two of them with DRs and haven't had any problems...yet. I think the two most common ten bolt killers are wheelhop and when people change out the gears for more aggressive gears.

RoDan

I look at it as a mechanical fuse. It breaks before your tranny will lol(in most cases)

simple

iTrader: (8)

mechanical fuse LOL


would have been killer if 4th gens got an 8.5" rear from the factory.

BOONE

iTrader: (4)

The S60 is much larger than either one of these rears, its a whole different deal.

HaulinaSS

Thanks for clearing that up for me guys, i was assuming the gears but someone told me it was the housing... Im not droping gears for awhile and will take it sort of easy on street tires til i get some cash.

Greggy

LS1's w/ 10 bolts ride and handle better than the heavier duty options out there. The 10 bolt will take years of abuse on an Automatic w/ sticky street tires and will do well on a manual if you avoid clutch dumps.

In other words if you keep the car stock it will last. If you upgrade the engine and traction, you have to upgrade the weakest link. I actually think is was good engineering for these cars to come with a 10 bolt. Other axles would have added cost, weight, hurt gas mileage, acceleration, ride and handling.

GM should have had an added cost option or aftermarket option for an easy swap out to a 12 bolt or something.

BURN'EM

iTrader: (11)

Mine broke off the center section just before it meets the ring gear all the way around. this was on a stalled auto with 3.23's some hold some don't. 9's are nice

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

well i sure hope my 10 bolt lasts bc if it doesn't then i will get an 8.8 bc they are alot cheaper than a friggin 9" or 12 bolt.

XtraCajunSS

iTrader: (2)

What most people don't understand is that the inherent weakness is the design of the 10 bolt (Salisbury Style) rear. It is far weaker than both the Ford 9" and Dana 60 because of the pinion bearing locations. On the 9 and 60 the pinion gear is located BETWEEN the bearings. On the 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and 8.8 the pinion gear is outboard of both bearings. Take this coupled with the small housing and gear sizes and you have a recipe for destruction. After many years of experimenting with drag racing rears, the 9" is far superior from a strength vs weight standpoint and can be made nearly indestructable. The Dana 60 is also very strong but its excessive weight and lack of gear choices make it a better choice for the truck crowd.

I have a Moser 9" with their standard housing, aluminum cc, 40 spline axles, and backbrace which weighs in at less than a 12 bolt... 182#

Shane

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

I have the luckiest 10-bolt alive. I have hit it with 600rwhp on the 100shot and dumped the clutch plenty of times. The key here is that I've never used a sticky tire. I think the first time I dead-hook, I'll spray shrapnel for 50 yards...

sobaka__79

iTrader: (1)

Don't use over 3.42 gears and don't use slicks, your rear end will be fine as long as the sudden strain of slicks on little gears doesn't happen