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Cam install parts list...?

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Old 10-02-2007, 10:36 AM
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Default Cam install parts list...?

I've decided on the cam I want, and then I picked all the important components I think need to be installed when doing a cam swap, so what do y'all think about this parts list, anything one there you think should be changed or anything not on there that probably should be?

Melling LS1 Oil Pump $148.99

Thunder Racing LS1 Cam Swap Package w/ Double Springs $709.99
-Cam: 99-TR230/224-111
-Patriot Gold Valvespring
-Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)

Comp Cams Gen III/LS1/LS6 Adjustable Timing Set $199.99

BMR Subframe Connectors, Boxed, 1993-2002 F-Body $169.95

LS1/LS2 Basic Camshaft Swap Gasket Package $79.99

Total: $1308.91

Last edited by Puppet_Master; 10-02-2007 at 10:58 AM.
Old 10-02-2007, 10:49 AM
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all the gaskets, and some loctite. And since you have to take the pulley off anyways, you might as well get an underdrive pulley
Old 10-02-2007, 10:59 AM
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I added the gaskets, but I did a quick search for the under drive pulleys and they were like $200..that's a lot of money, is it really worth it?
Old 10-02-2007, 12:03 PM
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depends on if you think 5-10rwhp is worth 200 bucks. I think it is... up to you
Old 10-02-2007, 12:32 PM
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ud pulley is said to make 7rwhp consistantly on the dyno, from they dyno shop. I would say that you can get a tsp ajustable timing set if you want for less, but i feel i made the mistake of buying on and realized, i wasnt going to set it at anything but TDC anyway. You really dont need an ajustable one, unless you plan to advance/ retard the cam, which many dont, because they buy them for there application. Also you can get a ported LS6 oil pump (mine gets 60 psi no problem) for about 130 bux. I would also recoomend the ARP longer crank bolt. It makes life about 153 1/2 times easier.
Old 10-02-2007, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragkid1917
ud pulley is said to make 7rwhp consistantly on the dyno, from they dyno shop. I would say that you can get a tsp ajustable timing set if you want for less, but i feel i made the mistake of buying on and realized, i wasnt going to set it at anything but TDC anyway. You really dont need an ajustable one, unless you plan to advance/ retard the cam, which many dont, because they buy them for there application. Also you can get a ported LS6 oil pump (mine gets 60 psi no problem) for about 130 bux. I would also recoomend the ARP longer crank bolt. It makes life about 153 1/2 times easier.
So are you talking about the ARP Cam bolt kit like on this page: http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=157 or something different?

Also, the Thunder Racing Modified LS6 Oil Pump is the same price as the Melling LS1 Oil Pump, so should I opt for the LS6?
Old 10-02-2007, 03:14 PM
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dont forget some good assembly lube(arp moly works well)
Old 10-02-2007, 04:08 PM
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is that the cam used for FI and nitrous applications?
Old 10-02-2007, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by King Nothing
is that the cam used for FI and nitrous applications?
Nope, cam only. This cam wouldn't be the best choice for nitrous or FI. The only thing I'm worried about is that I don't have headers, the only thing to help airflow is my cutout.

I just noticed I posted this in the wrong section so if a mod sees this can please you move it to the internal engine section.
Old 10-03-2007, 10:05 AM
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Some things that you may want to consider:

specialty tools - pulley puller, pulley install tool, valvespring tool, lifter magnets, etc. I rented these from 99blancoSS (board member) and they worked really well.

New belts & hoses (while you have them off)
New spark plugs (while they are easy to get to)
Oil & filter change (oil comes out when you loosen the pan)
RTV sealant (need a little on the front cover to be safe)
Rags, gloves, etc.

If you intend to degree the cam with your adjustable timing chain, then you will need a cam degree kit.

Last edited by NOBR8KSS; 10-03-2007 at 01:22 PM.
Old 10-03-2007, 06:48 PM
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I'm actually probably not going to install it so I don't need to include the gloves and stuff in the price. I have a guy that does work on all of our cars and he's really good and does it for cheap. He'll probably charge about $200 I'm guessing to put this in which I think would be worth it and it would probably cost me almost as much in tools just to do it.




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