SBC 383 cam choice, need opinions
#1
SBC 383 cam choice, need opinions
Got a little question for you all and I would like to see some input on my cam shaft choice. I'm rebuilding my 350 thats going into a 6000 pound 1978 K-5 Blazer (all time 4 wheel drive).
Here it is, very simple nothing crazy:
-1978 350 SBC block
-4.030 bore (piston will be hyper.)
-3.75 stroke (cast crank...not spinning past 5500rpm)
-6" rods (cast and clearanced)
-Vortec Heads (1.94i,1.50e)
-RPM air gap
-750 cfm carb (might go to a 650, not sure yet)
-10.0:1 Compression (still working on the number but it will NOT exceed 10.5)
-The final gear might be 3.42...it hasnt broke yet so I dont know whats in the front or rear.
-Tire size are 35s
The cam i have been looking at is the following:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 274
Advertised Duration: 268 int./274 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.552 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.564 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.552 int./0.564 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
It is in fact a solid roller....you might be able to talk me out of it. I do have one more choice that I think would be a good bump stick, but I want to see what you all think about this.
Thank you a bunch, this is the last thing I need to work out and I can start ordering parts and ripping the motor out.
Here it is, very simple nothing crazy:
-1978 350 SBC block
-4.030 bore (piston will be hyper.)
-3.75 stroke (cast crank...not spinning past 5500rpm)
-6" rods (cast and clearanced)
-Vortec Heads (1.94i,1.50e)
-RPM air gap
-750 cfm carb (might go to a 650, not sure yet)
-10.0:1 Compression (still working on the number but it will NOT exceed 10.5)
-The final gear might be 3.42...it hasnt broke yet so I dont know whats in the front or rear.
-Tire size are 35s
The cam i have been looking at is the following:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 274
Advertised Duration: 268 int./274 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.552 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.564 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.552 int./0.564 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
It is in fact a solid roller....you might be able to talk me out of it. I do have one more choice that I think would be a good bump stick, but I want to see what you all think about this.
Thank you a bunch, this is the last thing I need to work out and I can start ordering parts and ripping the motor out.
#2
HERE IS THE SECOND CHOICE AND I THINK THE MAJORITY OF YOU ON HERE WILL SAY THIS IS A GOOD MATCH FOR THE HEADS. I REALLY WANT TO GET SOMETHING THAT WORKS WITH THE HEADS BUT I ALSO WANT THAT SOUND...YOU ALL KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. THE CAM BELOW IS A MECHANICAL FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT (I KNOW THERE TWO DIFFERENT BEASTS)
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,300-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 int./0.480 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 111
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,300-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.462 int./0.480 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 111
#4
I also agree with you.
Its a 1978 Chevy k-5 Blazer (6000 #s) and I'm mostly going to be driving it to work. It's 6 miles to work form the house, 12 miles round trip. I also will be using it for towing. Majority of the time I tow 3 four wheelers on a trailer, and eventually I'll be towing the race car next year (about 2200 #s).
Thats why I think I should go with my second cam. I don't have to change the springs in those 906 heads (I'm going to stay with a 1.5 ratio rocker arm, 3/8" stud) and the vehicle is also all time 4 wheel drive (that cam is the comp cams 4X4 truck specific series).
I also like my second choice because its also cheaper. It is a flat tappet which I hope the lopes don't get ate up too much on the cam shaft for the next 3 years.
I could get a new Thumpr cam ! The overlap on them ones is unreal...but that requires all kinds of new stuff. Puts me in the 1100 dollar range just for a bad *** sounding cam shaft with the same performance.
Thank you for the input!!!
Its a 1978 Chevy k-5 Blazer (6000 #s) and I'm mostly going to be driving it to work. It's 6 miles to work form the house, 12 miles round trip. I also will be using it for towing. Majority of the time I tow 3 four wheelers on a trailer, and eventually I'll be towing the race car next year (about 2200 #s).
Thats why I think I should go with my second cam. I don't have to change the springs in those 906 heads (I'm going to stay with a 1.5 ratio rocker arm, 3/8" stud) and the vehicle is also all time 4 wheel drive (that cam is the comp cams 4X4 truck specific series).
I also like my second choice because its also cheaper. It is a flat tappet which I hope the lopes don't get ate up too much on the cam shaft for the next 3 years.
I could get a new Thumpr cam ! The overlap on them ones is unreal...but that requires all kinds of new stuff. Puts me in the 1100 dollar range just for a bad *** sounding cam shaft with the same performance.
Thank you for the input!!!
#7
If money is no issue id go for the roller. I have a cam near idntical to your 2nd choice in my 65 c10 but its a 110 Lsa {rougher than your choice of a 111} and i have to really bring the idle down to get a good lope.. to low.. 600rpm in park making **** for oil pressure.... at 850rpm its has a wee lil chop but a consistant one. it does cam cruising low speed at part throttle.. but Im a fan of crazy speratic idles lol i cant tell ya exactly how much smoother it will be 111 over 110.. but it will be smoother than my 110.
i put mine together for same reason i wanted something with some atitude pulling my race car hahaha but im reconsidering now the more money i have in my race car the more im not likeing the manua brakes the truck has!!!!
i put mine together for same reason i wanted something with some atitude pulling my race car hahaha but im reconsidering now the more money i have in my race car the more im not likeing the manua brakes the truck has!!!!
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#8
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Go with a roller and you will notice much better mileage and power, something along the lines of your second choice but in a hydraulic roller. A roller with a lsa of 108-110 and 230ish duration will do the job quite nicely and give a choppy idle that turns heads, good luck.