View Poll Results: which clutch
LS7
12
52.17%
RAM HD
5
21.74%
other please say which one
6
26.09%
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll
blew my clutch which clutch be better
10-09-2007, 10:14 AM
#1
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blew my clutch which clutch be better mods are in sig. i need a street/strip clutch under $500. i have a ls6 clutch now and it wont hold lol. thanks guys
10-09-2007, 10:36 AM
#2
None of those clutches, or any other sub-$500 clutch will hold that cam for long... I hate spending money that doesn't make power; but foundation is very important.
If you can swing it do it as big as you can this time.
If you can swing it do it as big as you can this time.
10-09-2007, 11:00 AM
#3
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this is a mod that you don't wanna have to keep doing. and with this mod you wanna try and find the fine line between harnessing your power and streetability. also when you buy your clutch keep in mind your future mods and goals... just some input. if i had the dough, Mcleod twin disc. since i don't , i personally am going centerforce with billet flywheel.
10-09-2007, 12:02 PM
#5
If you are limited by money at the moment the LS7 is surviving in my car with the turbo's. Over 1,000 miles on it and no problems at all. It should work in yours as well. I had the LS6 clutch up until this past spring and upgraded to the LS7 to get ready for the turbo's.
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10-09-2007, 08:53 PM
#8
I hate to say it, but unless you want to spend the money and time on another clutch in 2 years or less, set aside the $$$$ for a Textralia or atleast the RAM Street Twin. A single Tex. would probably be fine; but the dual disk Exo-Skel is not that much more expensive and has stock like pedal feel. I have the Exo-Skel and I still have stock internals! But I had a RAM PowerGrip (Not HD) burn up on me after only 2 years. I decided I was only doing this one more time.
10-09-2007, 09:07 PM
#10
i dont know how to say this without being a dick but dont be cheap on this. its a very important purchase. dont even think about right now when u do it. think about what u want to do to the car and buy one that will survive it. i have a mcleod single disc in my car right now with an aluminum flywheel. an $1100 set up. i know have to spend another $1200 less than 10k miles later because my car is making too much power for the single disc and i drag the car too much for an aluminum flywheel. so think ahead and dont be cheap. ive had to let me car sit for 4 months before and get rides before i got a 2nd car because i didnt have the funds to upgrade to what i really needed at the time.
10-10-2007, 10:42 AM
#11
i dont know how to say this without being a dick but dont be cheap on this. its a very important purchase. dont even think about right now when u do it. think about what u want to do to the car and buy one that will survive it. i have a mcleod single disc in my car right now with an aluminum flywheel. an $1100 set up. i know have to spend another $1200 less than 10k miles later because my car is making too much power for the single disc and i drag the car too much for an aluminum flywheel. so think ahead and dont be cheap. ive had to let me car sit for 4 months before and get rides before i got a 2nd car because i didnt have the funds to upgrade to what i really needed at the time.
. 
10-24-2007, 11:02 PM
#14
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Textralia 0700. As long as your not dumping clutch or running slick the 10 bolt has a good chance of making it...really just luck the draw on that.
But people pay 800 for tires, don't skimp and get a 300 clutch, not a good idea. If you want to do it right and not have to redo it, get a good one that can hold the power. Also break it properly.
But people pay 800 for tires, don't skimp and get a 300 clutch, not a good idea. If you want to do it right and not have to redo it, get a good one that can hold the power. Also break it properly.
10-25-2007, 07:25 PM
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I posted the following on another thread, but this is worth reading. Also, for a drag race application the dual disk should be avoided due to increased loading of synchronizers. They do not disengage as cleanly as a single.
I use a 10.5 in ram disk with a stock lining and a CF II cover with a 45 lbs flywheel on my 55 Chevy. I leave the line at 7200 rpm with slicks using a mild 283. I have never had any problems with the clutch going out or burning up when the car is geared correctly. If you guys are having problems burning up clutches, like DFs, you may do well to consider proper gearing. The LS or LT motors have far more torque than my 283 so the heavy flywheel may not be necesary. If the clutch does not slip when you punch it in high gear on the highway, the clutch is not the problem.
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
I use a 10.5 in ram disk with a stock lining and a CF II cover with a 45 lbs flywheel on my 55 Chevy. I leave the line at 7200 rpm with slicks using a mild 283. I have never had any problems with the clutch going out or burning up when the car is geared correctly. If you guys are having problems burning up clutches, like DFs, you may do well to consider proper gearing. The LS or LT motors have far more torque than my 283 so the heavy flywheel may not be necesary. If the clutch does not slip when you punch it in high gear on the highway, the clutch is not the problem.
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
10-25-2007, 07:34 PM
#16
10-25-2007, 09:03 PM
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I posted the following on another thread, but this is worth reading. Also, for a drag race application the dual disk should be avoided due to increased loading of synchronizers. They do not disengage as cleanly as a single.
I use a 10.5 in ram disk with a stock lining and a CF II cover with a 45 lbs flywheel on my 55 Chevy. I leave the line at 7200 rpm with slicks using a mild 283. I have never had any problems with the clutch going out or burning up when the car is geared correctly. If you guys are having problems burning up clutches, like DFs, you may do well to consider proper gearing. The LS or LT motors have far more torque than my 283 so the heavy flywheel may not be necesary. If the clutch does not slip when you punch it in high gear on the highway, the clutch is not the problem.
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
I use a 10.5 in ram disk with a stock lining and a CF II cover with a 45 lbs flywheel on my 55 Chevy. I leave the line at 7200 rpm with slicks using a mild 283. I have never had any problems with the clutch going out or burning up when the car is geared correctly. If you guys are having problems burning up clutches, like DFs, you may do well to consider proper gearing. The LS or LT motors have far more torque than my 283 so the heavy flywheel may not be necesary. If the clutch does not slip when you punch it in high gear on the highway, the clutch is not the problem.
A good rule of thumb would be to have a starting ratio of at least 13.5 to one. (1rst gear times rear gear ratio) 4.56 gears should be considered a minimum. Something has to slip for the first 30 ft or so to get the car out clean and allow your engine to work. It should not be your clutch. If you guys are slipping the clutch off the line this will destroy any clutch. Instead, what should slip is the tires. Most people racing with manual transmissions want to shock the tires loose and spin about one revolution off the line. This one revolution may be streached out over 15 feet. MT ET Streets or Drags with a stiff sidewall work best. Avoid Drag radials as they tend to wheel hop with a clutch car. The car can not be allowed to bog off the line. If you bog the car, you will break parts.
The bottom line is, your combination must allow you to dump the clutch at high revs, and get the car out without pulling the rpm down more than 500 rpm below peak torque. If you cant do this without slipping the pedal, and you have gone to the max rear gear your motor can turn through the lights, then increase launch rpm and flywheel mass, in that order.
I hope this helps.
Henry
Now those are some wise words from a guy who knows, and has been there/done that.
I said LS7 as your still on the stock 10bolt.