General LSX Automobile Discussion - Can an LS2 from a GTO be swapped into a Trans AM?

First, if I have posted this in the wrong forum, please move it. I couldn't determine which forum (if any) would be a better choice.

Generally speaking, how hard is it to swap an LS2 from a GTO into an otherwise stock Trans Am, A4? Do I have to pick up a slew of new parts to make it work, or are they mostly compatible?

Basically, I'm just looking for a stock replacement for my aging LS1 that is somewhat more powerful. I do not race the car, which is my daily driver, so i want an engine that can provide a decent amount of power but also be reliable and street friendly. That said, would you say the upgrade is worthwhile, or would I be better off looking elsewhere?

for the reasons that you just stated, this swap wouldn't imo be cost effective. you could easily and cheaply install intake exhaust headers and so forth and maybe gears and be in the same range. you could even istall a baby cam and a good set of heads. this will not make your car unreliable at any point.

thanks,
michael

An LS2 swap is not too difficult, but there are a few mods that are needed to make it work, I believe in the Gen III sections there is some info on this swap if you look for it.

But since your motors a little tired you can get an assembled LS1 style long block that will bolt right in or if you really like the idea of an LS2 TA check out GMPP's LS2 crate motor, I believe it goes for a little less than 6 Grand.

Much better off getting a budget LS1 short or long block with stage 1 or 2 cam and budget heads. Check out the sponsors like SDPC. 800-456-0211. Patrioot carries stock-like 243 castings that are real cheap. Maybe check out their package deal for their 224 cam and heads. It's like, $1,200 I think, and will destroy an LS2. If you're not racing, no need to get the supporting mods that just stair step up the cost ("Well, if you're getting a whole new engine, you might as well get headers, too!"). Stock manifolds are great. How much did PatG make with them? 400 rwhp?

However, it's really hard to just wear out an LS1. Do you have over 150K on it? Might just need a really, really good tune up. Check out the Sea Foam sticky in the General Maint. Forum. Fuel and air filters, O2 sensors, injectors, plugs and wires, etc.

If you take it to a shop and ask for a compression test (or do it yourself), and all the cylinders check out fine, then your engine's probably not too tired.

Mileage on my car is not at 150k yet; it is about 85k miles. Nonetheless, I feel as if it is getting older. I have done a tune up about 10k miles ago and should probably do another. I have not done a FULL tune up, as described, just the plug/wires, air filter, and fuel filter.

I don't think I can just outright modify my engine without a rebuild. To me at least, it doesn't make sense to modify an engine that is older, with no guarantees of durability or reliability. Also, as far as mods are concerned, I often feel like a fish out of water. There is just so much going on and I admit that I have a tough time following it. For example, oftentimes when changing one part out, another complementary part needs to be changed.

I guess the reason I figured an LS2 would be perfect was that it was assembled from the factory, it is a factory spec engine (meaning it has to be reliable, and shouldn't have the design flaws something I put together would have), and it has the extra power to boot.

Also, between ebay and this forum, I often find low mile LS2 going for the $4k range. I'm not sure a prebuilt modded package will be much cheaper at all!

Am I off base in any of my beliefs? Obviously, I'm not an expert, and I am here to learn.

I think your headed in the right direction.
People will argue the merits of a modified LS1 over an LS2 all day long but in reality the LS2 is a better engine. And it is a solid foundation to start modding.

I believe the ls2 gtos use a diffrent tranny then the 4l60e, but i could be wrong.

Why would you want to swap out a stock 350 hp engine for a stock 400 hp engine? That seems like a waste of money to me to just gain 50 hp. :engarde:

Ls2 all the way. Throw on a L76/ L92 intake head combo with a cam and 150 shot and youl'l be faster than most.

Why would you want to swap out a stock 350 hp engine for a stock 400 hp engine? That seems like a waste of money to me to just gain 50 hp. :engarde:

If he gets a LS2 cheap why not?

there is a guy around here that has a heads and cam ls1 with over 150k on the clock and he sprays it with a 150 shot and his engine still has good compression and passes smog.

there is a guy around here that has a heads and cam ls1 with over 150k on the clock and he sprays it with a 150 shot and his engine still has good compression and passes smog.

Cam specs, because I highly doubt he passes smog/emissions.

The ls2 is a better engine, sure, but with 85k on there you should jsut change your transmission fluid and get a dyno tune and ull be rockin

I understand that the situation with my current engine is not dire yet. I should have a good number of miles left on it. But, I also do want more power! (Nothing crazy, as I don't race it, but I wouldn't mind being around 400-425). This is where I have the dilemma. Although I feel that my engine could last normally, I'm not sure how much longer it could last IF I modify it at all. Moreover, being my daily driver, I don't want to have to worry about getting home at night if anything were to go wrong. If you guys have a recommendation to achieve these two goals in a cheaper manner than swapping in an LS2, I'd be more than happy to hear your suggestions.

Also, one of my questions hasn't really been answered: how difficult of a swap is it? Aside from the cost of the engine itself, how much should I anticipate paying for parts/labor?

Thanks.

theres a couple different small things involved like the harness and tb just to start you really need to look into the differences....the process can be anywhere from 14 hours to a couple days...

the swap really isnt that bad, they are almost the same engine. i dont know costs but if you arent gonna do it yourself dont do it, if you want 400-425 i suggest you put new gears in your rear end, that will make it come alive, put a nice intake, exhaust, and a cam. i have seen 500 hp with cam/heads stock bottom end.

Yeah I agree with most of the responses you have gotten so far, the fact of the matter is that the LS1 has proven its self time and time again. The aftermarket for these engines is huge. People run heads and cam daily drivers all the time with no problems at all. It just has to be done right.
You sound like a cam only candidate to me :nod: either way good luck.

yeah ive also been thinking about putting an ls2 in my car but not till it gets a way over 100k. its almost got 70 on it now but i drive alot.

Also, one of my questions hasn't really been answered: how difficult of a swap is it? Aside from the cost of the engine itself, how much should I anticipate paying for parts/labor?In combination with my last post, I'll add: a lot more than makes it worth it.

People arguning for it, especially with your comment on $4,000 on eBay, are just adding costs from Web pages. Things always cost more. They say doube the price of a project's cost on paper like that. In reality, it will cost more to drop a pull-a-part LS2 than getting a budget 346 shortblock with budget heads and dropping it down in there. You'll make a lot more power with the head/cam LS1, and have better peace of mind with an un-used engine with a basic warantee.

But, don't take my word for it. Call a sponsor near you. Ask 'em how much for a bare-bones budget longblock with a street cam (w/o intake).

People run heads and cam daily drivers all the time with no problems at all. It just has to be done right.

That right there is what I am most afraid of: human error (specifically MY error).

Nonetheless, I am going to look into a heads/cam upgrade and see if that is a better option for me.

On a side note, a member recommended doing a compression test. What exactly does that entail, and what specifically would that tell me about my engine?

On a side note, a member recommended doing a compression test. What exactly does that entail, and what specifically would that tell me about my engine?Call a shop. Ask 'em what they charge to do it. It's a common procedure. A lot of places rent gages.

From Google:

A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.

As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.

Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.

To check compression, all the spark plugs are removed. The ignition coil is then disabled or the high tension lead is grounded. The throttle is also held open. The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole. The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders. The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specs.

I would run a Lid/air filter/smooth bellow(example:SLP lid and bellow,KN filter), Long tube headers with a catted y pipe(example:pace setter)and a nice catback exhaust(example:flowmaster), a small cam(example:texas speed,speed inc.,etc) with a tune would make you car come alive and it wouldn't cost you alot.

That right there is what I am most afraid of: human error (specifically MY error).Consider having a recommended professional in your area do the parts install for you. Just buy the parts (choose conservatively for best reliability on a daily driver) schedule a time with the shop you select to do the work, drop it all off. Lots of good used parts for sale on the boards for a significant savings over new, especially the smaller cams that are perfect for a DD. You can do the proven low cost (e.g. lid) and free mods (e.g. throttle stop mod) on your own.

Anything that isn't a straight forward swap can end up being a garage queen-type experience as all the details/bugs get worked out if you try to do it yourself. I've seen it happen a bunch of times. So for the same (or less) $$$ that you'd pay for a stock used LS2 and a pro swap, you can have your LS1 buildup and end up with more HP. Lots of guys have modded LS1s with over 100k/miles on them with great results.

Its been done plenty of times. Knock sensors are on the bottom, and extend the wires also for the cam sensor up front. Thats all, NO BIG DEAL, and don't go crying you can do this and that to an LS1 to make it faster. YOU CAN'T BEAT MORE CUBES PERIOD!

Peace,
Craig.

Its been done plenty of times. Knock sensors are on the bottom, and extend the wires also for the cam sensor up front. Thats all, NO BIG DEAL, and don't go crying you can do this and that to an LS1 to make it faster. YOU CAN'T BEAT MORE CUBES PERIOD!

Peace,
Craig.

I agree
A cam only LS2 can be a real Beast.

80K on your LS1 is not aging! I just turned over 180K on my daily driver and put an LS6 intake on it this past weekend. The car still runs great, probably has over 100 passes at the track in the last two years and gets close to 30 mpg on the highway. If your car is stock, you'll be happy for awhile with the power that you gain from all the standard bolt on's (headers, exhaust, throttle body, LS6 intake, gears etc.) Read all the posts about high mileage LS1's, they're very reliable for a long time with proper maintenance.

o hell yeah dude look at ls2bait that camaro is so bad ass