Clutch Won't Fully Disengage (Spec 3+)
10-15-2007, 10:15 PM
#1
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Clutch Won't Fully Disengage (Spec 3+) 2000 WS6
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
Symptoms:
-Clutch engagement is literally right off of the floor
-Cant shift out of first or into second near redline until revs drop
-Popping out of 3rd occasionally
-Light Grinding into 4th & 5th
Previous owner had "new hydrolics" installed right before i bought it.
So what exactly did they do wrong?
-Not leaking any fluid
-Could it be a simple bleeding issue?
-Slave cylinder not shimmed properly or shimmed at all?
I need to sell the car, but want to get this issue fixed first. I am prepared to
drop the tranny to look at the slave cylinder or clutch setup if necessary, but would rather not if its avoidable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
Symptoms:
-Clutch engagement is literally right off of the floor
-Cant shift out of first or into second near redline until revs drop
-Popping out of 3rd occasionally
-Light Grinding into 4th & 5th
Previous owner had "new hydrolics" installed right before i bought it.
So what exactly did they do wrong?
-Not leaking any fluid
-Could it be a simple bleeding issue?
-Slave cylinder not shimmed properly or shimmed at all?
I need to sell the car, but want to get this issue fixed first. I am prepared to
drop the tranny to look at the slave cylinder or clutch setup if necessary, but would rather not if its avoidable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
10-16-2007, 07:26 PM
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It is either air in the hydro line or a missing shim behind the slave. How does the pedal feel? Is there slop in the pedal or is it firm?
Bleeding:
1. Fill resevior to the top.
2. Pump and hold pedal.
3. Crack bleeder open for 5-10 seconds.
4. Close bleeder valve.
5. Pump pedal a few times, release and give it a few seconds.
6. Check fluid level and resevior and repeat cycle again.
Bleeding:
1. Fill resevior to the top.
2. Pump and hold pedal.
3. Crack bleeder open for 5-10 seconds.
4. Close bleeder valve.
5. Pump pedal a few times, release and give it a few seconds.
6. Check fluid level and resevior and repeat cycle again.
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10-17-2007, 12:25 AM
#8
well I have the same clutch.. all new hydralics and I have the same problem... I have bled over 3/4 of a big jug fluid. and I'm not happy with it. It has gotten better with time and break in. though but still close to the floor. I took mine apart making sure there was the spec shim in there.
Now I think that there has to be someone out there that can answer this. Or a better way to bleed the system.
I am not new at this and thats what really pisses me off, I know everything is in there right. so why is it right off the floor.
Now I think that there has to be someone out there that can answer this. Or a better way to bleed the system.
I am not new at this and thats what really pisses me off, I know everything is in there right. so why is it right off the floor.
10-17-2007, 01:25 AM
#10
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well I have the same clutch.. all new hydralics and I have the same problem... I have bled over 3/4 of a big jug fluid. and I'm not happy with it. It has gotten better with time and break in. though but still close to the floor. I took mine apart making sure there was the spec shim in there.
Do you have the same problem there?
10-17-2007, 03:27 PM
#11
Bad hydraulics are certainly a likely cause for this issue, even though the parts were replaced previously you can't assume that they are working properly or that they were bled properly in the beginning. With the shim installed you should have no real potential for the pedal to maintain low engagement point. If you bleed the assemblied and still have issues you are welcome to pull the unit and get me some pics of the kit. I may also request stack height measurements to insure that all is well. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
10-17-2007, 03:43 PM
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Bad hydraulics are certainly a likely cause for this issue, even though the parts were replaced previously you can't assume that they are working properly or that they were bled properly in the beginning. With the shim installed you should have no real potential for the pedal to maintain low engagement point. If you bleed the assemblied and still have issues you are welcome to pull the unit and get me some pics of the kit. I may also request stack height measurements to insure that all is well. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
10-17-2007, 04:07 PM
#15
Yes, it does apply to all of our single disc applications for the LS1 F-body. The shim is made from steel. Let me know if you have any further questions. As a side note, if you need the shim and don't have it, give me a call. Thanks!!
10-22-2007, 09:03 PM
#17
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I bled the clutch today and it is A LOT better. Gonna jack it up again and bleed it some more tomorrow to make sure all the air is out. Thanks guys.
11-01-2007, 09:07 PM
#18
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When i contacted Spec directly about shims when my clutch came the guy sent me two because there are a few instances when 2 shims may be necessary if the flywheel has been turned.
