j200pruf

iTrader: (1)

Hey All new to the board I have been doing a lot of research but I am kinda needing some guidance on how to reach my goals.
I am building this engine for my 1987 RX7, I am shooting for ~400hp at the wheels, I would really like 450 but I can settle for 400. The car is already completely stripped and should weight about 2500 with out any fuel. I am also limited to 4.10 Rear Gears with either a T5 or T56 Trans. This will just be a fun weekend/HPDE car.

I don't want to spin the motor over 7k and want keep it around 10.0:1 compression so that I can still run it on pump gas. Ill post up what I have been looking at to see if I am going anywhere near the right direction. Here goes

Use the steel 3.25 crank, balanced of course.

Possibly use the "Fuelie" heads that are on the engine now, although I would like to use aluminum heads for weight savings, but I am not sure on what runner and valve size I should use.
I have been told that the rods in the motor should be ok for what I will be doing with it as long as a upgrade to ARP rod bots

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 243 int./249 exh.
Advertised Duration: 273 int./279 exh
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.578 int./0.585 exh. lift
or
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 237 int./243 exh.
Advertised Duration: 267 int./273 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.566 int./0.578 exh. lift

Upgraded valve springs

Obviously new lifters since the engine currently has a flat tappet cam.

My dad suggested that I also invest in a set a 1.6 aluminum roller rockers of the 7/16 stud veritey.

Thats what seems like the basics, but I am wondering are the things I see out there like valve stud girdles and "rev kits" needed on an engine like this or are those types of things for all out race motors

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Those are somewhat lofty power goals for a n/a 327 sbc. You're talking about making 1.5hp per cubic inch---that's peeking into race territory and won't be cheap to build. I'd think you're looking at closer to 8k rpm and expensive parts to handle that kind of rpm. Out of curiosity, why not do a stroker crank and build a 383? Lots less rpm & money to get to your power goals. Just my 2 cents though.

moge11

I see that those are Lunati VooDoo cams...use the 243/249 cam, a set of AFR 195 ELIMINATOR's, 11:1 compression, and a Performer RPM AIR-GAP intake. It'll spin to at least 7200rpm and likely make 375-400rwhp....Maybe more. I say this because many 331ci ford stroker with AFR 185's make 400+rwhp with SMALLER cams.

j200pruf

iTrader: (1)

Intake help. So once again I am needing some help. I started going through some stuff in my dads shed and I found this manifold. Its an Offenhauser, I was just wondering if this would be any good on my planed engine. Pics are attached.

Or would the edlebrock tarantula be a better choice.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Neither. For what little it costs, you really need to update your intake. Look at the Performer RPM. The Fuelie heads are going to limit you a bit as well, just about any modern aluminum head will give you better results. Don't overlook the Vortech Iron heads, they flow pretty decent, and would really help with your goal for little money. You would need an intake meant for them though.

Vintage Iron55

327's need rpm to make that power. Too few cubes. I ran 12.90s in a 3500 lbs 55 Chevy with 10 to one, old fuelie heads, the old 30/30 cam, performer rpm 7000 rpm launches and shifts with a Tremec 5 speed and 5.14 gears. It traped at 7000 rpms and 110 mph. At 1000 less lbs, you should be able to hit 11.90s with such an outdated setup. A more modern cam may get you a little more. The funny thing about those old heads... The newer better cams don't seem to help as much as you would think. a .500 lift comp 282s did not perform any beter in my recent 283 than my old 097 duntov (57 Chevy fuelie cam) with .395/.400 lift. I would look into some nicer heads if you want some real power available and with less duration.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

If you do decide to go with a larger stroke crank make sure that you have the mains turned down from the large journal to the small journal main diameters. I would also use a dual plane intake manifold and stay away from the single plane's for the amount of compression you will have and the cubic inches. I would use a Air Gap intake or the better, but more expensive, Brodix HV1016 intake manifold that will keep your TQ up but let you spin 7500 rpm easily with a 327. I also will second the AFR Eliminators in the 195cc intake runners, if you can afford to spend the extra money I would by the Competition port heads. On the cam selection I would use the 267/273, 237/243, .566"/.578" with the 7/16" stud 1.6 ratio rocker arms. It will give you better mid range and top end HP than going with the other larger camshaft you had listed. Make sure to get you a good set of valve springs to be able to handle the extra lift with the SR cam & the 1.6 rockers (.603"/.616" lift).

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

I would rethink the whole build. You have a conundrum of mismatched, outdated parts. You wanna make 400+ HP BELOW 7000 with a short stroke, peaky engine.
Either build a bigger, longer stroke motor, or build this one to spin the bajesus out of it.

WS62001

I agree 100% with this comment. You need to start from scratch.

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Bore it 30 over, 6.250 rods, flat top 2-valve pistons (1.125 compression height), AFR heads, 244/244 534 lift cam and that will get you 480 crank hp.

moge11

Those are AFR 180 heads TOO!....I believe that is the build from GMHTP.