High HP GTOs please respond....
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High HP GTOs please respond....
Just did a bunch of work as you can see in my sig. Problems galore....
1) Clutch: I put in a SPEC 3+. HATE IT! Chatter isn't terrible but it's not a fun take-up. Also, the spring seems to be tighter than it needs to be. Anyone pushing 400+ rear wheel torque have any more livable suggestions? I will not be doing much more to the motor.
2) Tires: Obviously, I have to upgrade my OEM 235/40/18s since they are useless. I have OEM 17"s with 275/40/17 Nitto 555R, but, I want to use these only for the track. So, any really good STREET 18s that are sticky enough outside of Drag radials?
3) Biggest rear 18" tires with no problems on a stock rear suspenion?
4) I have a K&N CAI on there. Is it really necessary? Boost is boost and having a free-flowing intake over the stock airbox shouldn't make much of a CFM difference?
5) Throttle cable: On a Maggie application, the cable runs diagonal over the blower then curves to the actuator. It is really long. Yet, in the owners manual it runs straight back. Anyone have any input to how theirs runs?
1) Clutch: I put in a SPEC 3+. HATE IT! Chatter isn't terrible but it's not a fun take-up. Also, the spring seems to be tighter than it needs to be. Anyone pushing 400+ rear wheel torque have any more livable suggestions? I will not be doing much more to the motor.
2) Tires: Obviously, I have to upgrade my OEM 235/40/18s since they are useless. I have OEM 17"s with 275/40/17 Nitto 555R, but, I want to use these only for the track. So, any really good STREET 18s that are sticky enough outside of Drag radials?
3) Biggest rear 18" tires with no problems on a stock rear suspenion?
4) I have a K&N CAI on there. Is it really necessary? Boost is boost and having a free-flowing intake over the stock airbox shouldn't make much of a CFM difference?
5) Throttle cable: On a Maggie application, the cable runs diagonal over the blower then curves to the actuator. It is really long. Yet, in the owners manual it runs straight back. Anyone have any input to how theirs runs?
#2
Launching!
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as far as a clutch the only two i would look at is TEXTRALIA AND CARTEK...period
if you buy one of those you will thanks me.
I have 18's and i have the bfg i think KDW and they are pretty decent.mine are 245 40 18.
as the throttle i need to see a picture of yours and i can look at mine and tell you what to do different..
if you buy one of those you will thanks me.
I have 18's and i have the bfg i think KDW and they are pretty decent.mine are 245 40 18.
as the throttle i need to see a picture of yours and i can look at mine and tell you what to do different..
#3
I have the Cartek clutch and love it.. Its no a full on full of kind clutch.. It is a little stiffer than stock but not bad.. If your every in CT you can take it for a ride.. I was in NJ yesterday at Atco .. If I had know I would have had you come and try it around the pits..
#4
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LS7 clutch setup has been working great in my car....over 70 passes at the strip this year on drag radials. Maggie car with 435rwhp&tq
You won't know it's anything other than a stock clutch, except that it holds consistently and doesn't go away. Stock pedal feel.
For under $500 I figure I'll replace one every couple years with a new one.
You won't know it's anything other than a stock clutch, except that it holds consistently and doesn't go away. Stock pedal feel.
For under $500 I figure I'll replace one every couple years with a new one.
#5
Installed an LS7 clutch in a 402, L92 car. Car is putting down almost 500 at the wheels. Grabs awsome, and feels stock.
I to have an LS7 clutch with 408 HP to the wheels. Not one slip in almost 5k miles.
I to have an LS7 clutch with 408 HP to the wheels. Not one slip in almost 5k miles.
#6
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I ran a set of Michellin PS1 275/35 ZR 18. I trimmed about 1/4" off of both fender lips w/ a grinder, and I never had an issue with them rubbing. Not trying to start a flame war, but the LS7 was designed for a much lighter car, and I personnally have seen two get pulled because of slipping at around 450 whp. I will be going with another Spec, but that is personal preference. The Tex OZ700 is a very good clutch, and I have helped install two of them. About as stiff as the Spec, without the chatter.
#7
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I ran a set of Michellin PS1 275/35 ZR 18. I trimmed about 1/4" off of both fender lips w/ a grinder, and I never had an issue with them rubbing. Not trying to start a flame war, but the LS7 was designed for a much lighter car, and I personnally have seen two get pulled because of slipping at around 450 whp. I will be going with another Spec, but that is personal preference. The Tex OZ700 is a very good clutch, and I have helped install two of them. About as stiff as the Spec, without the chatter.
BTW, I'm assuming the chatter is due to more-than-is-necessary aggressive friction materials?
I was advised that the very strong delivery of torque from a Maggie, combined with the high weight of the car, necessitated the need for a stronger clutch. They said purely by the #'s a SPEC 2 or LS6 clutch would be fine, but, there is much more torque available at the typical engagement levels fighting too mcuh weight.
Personally, I think it's too much clutch for my application.
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#9
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Spec 3 here as well.. Love it, chatter and all! Ok, I don't love the chatter but I get over it because the clutch simply rocks! And yes I make plenty of power to prove it.... see sig
Not to mention, this Spec 3 has more miles on it than my GTO does... (never chattered in my 2000 Trans Am)
If you're not going to be racing a lot, the LS7 will be fine. If you plan on racing it will hold up for a while but will start to show it's weak points sooner. They don't like to be heated up and raced (hot lapping).
The Cartek clutch has a very good reputation.. seems like a great choice.
The Textrailia... I have seen really good reviews and I have read really bad reviews... to each their own.
Good luck hooking on the street with anything less than DRs. I suggest BFGs. For the track I suggest Mickey Thompson ET Streets Bias ply DOT slicks or a 15" wheel/tire combo.. personally choosing BFG DR's!
18" DR's you'll find expensive and made by BFG in a 275....
I run a custom pipe added to my ProCharger intake with a huge filter on it.... But in your case I think I would leave the K&N, maybe add a larger filter if it fits!
Not to mention, this Spec 3 has more miles on it than my GTO does... (never chattered in my 2000 Trans Am)
If you're not going to be racing a lot, the LS7 will be fine. If you plan on racing it will hold up for a while but will start to show it's weak points sooner. They don't like to be heated up and raced (hot lapping).
The Cartek clutch has a very good reputation.. seems like a great choice.
The Textrailia... I have seen really good reviews and I have read really bad reviews... to each their own.
Good luck hooking on the street with anything less than DRs. I suggest BFGs. For the track I suggest Mickey Thompson ET Streets Bias ply DOT slicks or a 15" wheel/tire combo.. personally choosing BFG DR's!
18" DR's you'll find expensive and made by BFG in a 275....
I run a custom pipe added to my ProCharger intake with a huge filter on it.... But in your case I think I would leave the K&N, maybe add a larger filter if it fits!
#10
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I'm runnin gthe LS7 but with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. 7.5 lbs lighter so it was a noticeable difference. 1st gear is useless on a hard take-off and 2nd if I'm the trottle all the way, but 3rd is the sweetest thing. I'm was putting down 429.3 rwhp/403 rwtq. Since the clutch maybe 5 more! No dyno yet until rockers and maybe waterpump. I have a cam and normal bolt-ons. Stock heads.
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I have a SPEC 2+. Should be PLENTY enough for what you have, and little more effort than the stocker.
275 Nittos out back will fit if on the right wheels. I have Drift R's, and they tuck perfectly with no rubbing.
Keep the CAI...less restriction helps the blower work easier...even if it's a small bit.
275 Nittos out back will fit if on the right wheels. I have Drift R's, and they tuck perfectly with no rubbing.
Keep the CAI...less restriction helps the blower work easier...even if it's a small bit.
#12
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Ram Street Dual Disc here. Making sick power, can't hook M/T 275/40/17's in First at all. Somewhat in second, but traction is an issue. Clutch is stock feeling pedal, no on/off switch and it's rebuildable, Ram says not to replace it, but rebuild it.
Traction sucking: 11.74 @ 129mph (1.9? 60ft.). I think the 1/8 was 7.7? or 7.6? that pass @ 96ish. As bad as it spun in first and still mph that well, it was pulling like a freight train in top of second and all of third. I ran an 1/8 here at home and went 7.92 @ 101 mph (2.1? 60ft.) Once it hooked in second, down track, I've never ridden in a harder pulling car and the clutch was fine.
Traction sucking: 11.74 @ 129mph (1.9? 60ft.). I think the 1/8 was 7.7? or 7.6? that pass @ 96ish. As bad as it spun in first and still mph that well, it was pulling like a freight train in top of second and all of third. I ran an 1/8 here at home and went 7.92 @ 101 mph (2.1? 60ft.) Once it hooked in second, down track, I've never ridden in a harder pulling car and the clutch was fine.
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lol, with the power your going to be pushing after the breakin who knows how long it will last. i have the 3+ getting ready to go in mine, i just hope i have better luck with it from what i have ben reading.