Automatic Transmission - 2004-r 6.0

Wondering if anyone here has mated a 2004-R to a LS motor. I plan to use my current trans with a new converter of course. My old school small block makes 420 HP while I expect 500 plus with the new combo.

You don't say what vehicle you have or what your expectations for your combo are ?? A 200-4R is a good cruiser for a 300/400 hp light vehicle . I wouldn't expect it to live long in a hard driven or track vehicle do to it's internal parts design !! :bang:

You don't say what vehicle you have or what your expectations for your combo are ?? A 200-4R is a good cruiser for a 300/400 hp light vehicle . I wouldn't expect it to live long in a hard driven or track vehicle do to it's internal parts design !! :bang:


I have them in 10 second GN's without issue with upgrades, many are living in the 9's.
They are more capable at these power levels than a 700-R4 or 4L60E IMO, although the ultimate answer is a 4L80E.

Key word "with upgrades" . I have no problem using a 200-4R , with upgrades . Even upgraded they are not as strong as a 700R-4/4L60E , but I like the gear ratio in low a lot better . I agree that the 4L80E is the ultimate H.D.M.F. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

I disagree with them not being as strong as a 700-R4/4L60E.

You have more hydraulic apply area for 3rd and 4th gear in a properly setup 200-4R, and you don't have to deal with the weak input shaft/drum of the 4L60 design.

The biggest weak point in the 200-4R is the forward drum and that is a $350 part that is pretty much bulletproof when corrected. Over 600 lb ft of torque I use a 4340 input shaft and recommend the OD carrier and ring gear.

There is no real fix for the input shaft/drum of a 4L60. You sleeve it, and you can heat treat the shaft, or best case scenario is cryro a NEW setup with sleeve, but either way enough power splits the shaft at the oil holes or breaks the aluminum drum.

Wondering if anyone here has mated a 2004-R to a LS motor. I plan to use my current trans with a new converter of course. My old school small block makes 420 HP while I expect 500 plus with the new combo.
I have one in my car and next summer, we'll see which last longest, it or the engine.

You don't say what vehicle you have or what your expectations for your combo are ?? A 200-4R is a good cruiser for a 300/400 hp light vehicle . I wouldn't expect it to live long in a hard driven or track vehicle do to it's internal parts design !! :bang:I was told the same thing buy a great 200-4r builder before I swapped my t56 for an a4. I went with the 4l60e. I think if they are built right they can take the power for the same price as the 200-4r trans.

He must not have been a great 200-4R builder if he isn't aware they can take more than 300-400 HP.

Sorry I left out some info. First off the car weighs in @2720. The tranny had a performance build but I can't tell ya everything that it had done. When I pull it I may take it back and have it check to see if it can handle the new power. I am in the process of doing a 2006 LS2 6.0 with the GMPP L92 heads. Following the Hot Rod magazine build. Should be 500 plus HP when done. Car is a 1991 Mazda RX 7. With my current SBC 350 it runs a 12.1 time @114. Thanks for the input

PS, Car is used for fun at the drags it is not a full time race car

bluethunder,
The 200-4R is a great trans in that car. I just did one awhile back behind a conventional SBC.

There are some tricks for the 200-4R that make a big difference in whether they live or not. Some aren't expensive at all it is just key to have a builder that knows how to do these units.
They are not a 700-R4 or 4L60E and the guys that can build a great 4L60 may not be able to make a 200-4R get out of the parking lot with big power.

There are some inherent weaknesses in any trans and the 200 has some that are similar to the 700/4L60Es.

They need a better servo to apply the 2nd gear band. They need an improved 2nd band. They need bigger boost valves, 10 or 13 vane pump, hardened pump rings, better sun shell, etc.
Many of these mods are EXACTLY the same as the 700, the parts are interchangeable.
The band, servo, and sun shell are specific to the 200-4R but the boost valves, pump rings, and pump parts are the same.

There are some tricks you need to do to the 3rd gear circuit, there are some tricks done to the VB for crisper shifts, band clearance and 3rd gear clearance are important just like a 4L60 type trans.

The only real issue is the forward drum. Like the input drum on a 700-R4 or 4L60E it is weak and with some power it will snap cleanly.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/Transmissions/100_4070.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/Transmissions/100_4071.jpg

Once that is taken care of a car in the high 12s or faster needs a deep pan and a 700-R4 filter or other pickup setup.

Thanks for sharing that info with us. I already have a fare amount of $$$$ in it now so I will take your advice and have those other areas checked.

Mike Kurtz(the GOD of these trannys) is putting mine on the pallet and shipping back to me today.
It is FULLY built, and stated that it should hold 900+lbs of tq(3500 lb car) with no issues whatsoever.
We will see though!
:D


<<< this guy posting up before me seems to know his stuff about these trannys as well...he is RIGHT on par with the mods Mike spoke to me about doing to my tranny.

Mike Kurtz is well known for his 200-4Rs.
You shouldn't have any issues with it.

Mike Brown ran one for a while in his tank bottom 9s / high 8s.