gold00

I have a 06 vortec engine and trans Drive by wire that I installed in my 69 chevelle. Had a new harness made up to delete some of the things not going to be used such as rear o2 and gas tank sensor and such. Also had the computer programed by the same place just got back and put it in the car will not start. It cranks when you turn the key on the fuel pump comes on for a few seconds and the throttle works open and closes but it does not seem to be working the injectors or coils all it does is cranks. Not sure if this is a computer problem such as vats or maybe something done wrong with the harness. The reason I mention this is it came back with the wrong connectors for the o2 sensors and the transmission which I changed I put the old ones on with the guidance from the people that made it. Then hen I went to connect to computer they had the wrong plastic guides on the end of the computer connector I believe they had red and green not 100% on that they told me to use mine which are blue and green?

Question

1 Does the symptoms seem like it may be a vats issue?
2 If they made this for a older gm vehicle with the incorrect ends and mine are different could the wiring on the connectors be wrong is the wiring different between the two.



Thanks for any help not sure were to start or what to look for.

QSPres

iTrader: (15)

Start with the dudes that jacked up your harness from ths start.......

bczee

iTrader: (12)

It would be hard for any of use to comment on what the harness has and how it is suppose to be connected for your Chevelle.. as we would need a lot more details. Who did the harness and PCM programming ?

If it was the VAT.. it normally will startup for a second or two and die.

For a test, I would get one of those NOID Light tester and plug it into the Injector conector and and see if it is lighting up when the PCM triggers the injector..

There are other test for both the injectors and the coils.. Are you getting voltage to the coils ? See if you can get a Scanner and plug it into the ODBII connector and crank it over and watch to see if the sensors are outputting a singal.

Have you also check to make sure the grounds are secure on the back of the head going into the harness (usually 3 grounds). Suggest you go over all of the connectors to see if the are secure, lose or broken. Are you getting 12+volts in both the BAT+ and Ing leads into the PCM ?

gold00

Yes I did check the grounds I will need to check those points going into computer I did check them where I tied them into ignition switch and had power there when cranking. The connectors I was talking about are at the computer them self they have nothing to do with the car. Also going to have to get a tester to check at the injectors. It does not seem to try to start at all can someone tell me where these terminals are located on the computer connectors. The Bat+ and ign. Again thanks in advance.

gold00

OK did some Moore checking got a scanner plugged it in did not see anything going on when cranking showed o2 sensors and tps and such that was about it. Checked all grounds back to battery all OK re checked all connectors all seemed OK. Got a pin assignment for my year checked all grounds from pcm connector to battery all OK. Got 12 volts from blue connector pin 75 labeled ignition o voltage when key was turned on also power on pin 57 blue connector labeled battery pos voltage, pin 19 ignition 1 voltage when key on blue connector, pin 20 battery positive voltage blue connector, there are two that say 12 volt reference 39 green and 2 blue not sure if they should have voltage or not. Was not able to check with noid tester could not get my hands on one.

Do these findings seem OK and is there any way to check for voltage at the coils with meter if so which of the four wires.

Any other suggestions would be much appreciated thank you.

gold00

Did some thinking on this does the vats kill power to the coil packs as well as the injectors? Also is there a way to measure voltage at the coils? Thanks for any help on this.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

No, vats has no affect on spark; only fuel injector pulses. If you are sure you have no spark, it's probably something in the crank sensor or PCM. You can check and make sure that you have 12 volts at the pink wire in the coil pack connector. Make extra sure that the 12 volts remains while cranking.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

You can check power at the coils and injectors with a volt meter. For the coils there should be a pink wire at pin D of each coil connector which should have 12V in both the run and start positions.

On the injectors ther should be a pink wire at pin A of each injector. This should also be hot in run and start.

Note: on the coils test from the pink wire to a known ground, not just between the two wires. On the coils you can either test between Ground and the pink wire or you can test between the pink wire and the black wire at pin A(The black wire is the ground wire for all the coils)

Jones'n

The only real difference I can think of between the Blue/Red and Blue/Green computers is the heater controls for the O2's, and some extra grounds. Beyond that, even if the harness was for an older computer, it'd still make everything run.
I'd look in to what Speartech mentioned about the ignition staying on during cranking. Some ignition switches will give you ignition power when the key is in runso you hear the Pump prime, and then it turns off when in crank. Make sure you have power to that post/wire on both run and crank.
No spark is usually something with the Crank sensor or the wiring to it.

gold00

First off thanks for the help it was all good info. I found the problem the people that made my harness crossed two wires for the crank sensor at the pcm. switched them fired right up. This site has been very helpful thanks again. Now I need to call the people that made the harness and programed computer and try to get some compensation for the trouble.