dtownZ28

Whats up new to the forum. Just purchaced a 2000 z28 A4 with 54000 miles. Wondering what the best mods would be for an automatic. Long tubes cat back etc. I live in a town with alot of manual mustang and want to be ablew to hang off the line what can improve the automatics responce?

NightWindDriftr

iTrader: (4)

A stall; 3000-3600 stalls are popular.

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

Since you have a 2000, definitely upgrade to the LS6 intake.. Several are always for sale in the sale area.

Lid, headers, and a tune are most peoples first mods. Lid and headers got my Z28 to consistent 12.8xs in the 1/4 mile.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Do this:

Round 1: Air lid, catback (or cutout if you need to save money).

Round 2: Higher stall torque converter, trans cooler, drag radials.

Round 3: Headers w/ ORY, LS6 intake, ported TB, dyno tune

Round 4: Suspension. Decide if you want better handling or better traction. Choose parts accordingly.

Round 5: Heads/cam package; dozens to choose from. Do TONS of research, and pick something that suits your needs well. Get an LS6 oil pump and a better timing chain at the same time. Re-tune on the dyno.

Round 6: Built trans (FLP would be my choice), possibile re-stall of the TC, 12 bolt rear with 3.73ish gears, switch to slicks

Round 7: Power adder. Your choice, N2O or blower turbo. Likely need a cam swap as well.

Round 8: New shortblock. Iron or aluminum, your choice. Go low compression for blower/turbo. Or big cube/high compression for NA.

01LS6SS

Not too popular is adding 3.73 to the rear....Makes the auto cars launch hard off the line.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

If you want serious ET reduction, stall before gears. Always.

ChocoTaco369

I'd DEFINITELY get a built trans before a H/C package, unless you want your car to be unusable a few days after the install. Driveline components are ALWAYS more important than engine modifications. All the power in the world is worthless if the car can't move.

'91firebirdformula

iTrader: (3)

I have an '02 Z28. I have a lid, longtube headers, ORY, electric cutout, 3600 stall, 3.73 gears, and Nitto drag radials. With this setup i have yet to lose to a mustang(havn't raced a terminator though!), and have outlaunched every EVO and STI but 1. Do what suits you best, but with a similar setup, dont worry about the mustangs.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Just keep the shift points around 6k-6.2k RPM until the trans is built, if you can't afford to build the trans right away.

But I agree if it's a daily driver to build for strenght first, power second. If it's not a daily driver and you just want to race it, then you might as well push stuff till it breaks, assuming you have the means to get the car home from the track without a $500 towing bill.

Honestly, I'd never do anything more than bolt-ons for a daily driver. I've seen way too many people in my club build their daily drivers for racing and still try to rely *soley* on them for the daily commute. Even when using the best parts and doing it right, breakages are still more likely to happen with a high HP car that's driven hard, and if it's your only car, you're fucked. I'd never recommend building a monster for a daily driver, unless you have some other car to fall back on "just in case".

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

catback (stock exhaust is no fun), lid, stall, and some dr's. then you should be able to do more than hang with them stangs off the line. you'll eat em.