GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Like at teh center hub thats bolted to the crank, still there bolted and loctited fine, but the wheel and start ring just spins around that because it looks like someone cut a circle around the bolt pattern

Anyone ever seen anything like that? Not a stocker, this is an SFI approved steel plate

chrismorales75

Heard of it happening but never seen it, I bought a good one in hope of not having to.

Buy one of the thicker ones, some are thicker than others and have a lot more material, which will take a little power away but will help launch the car harder.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

we dont need it to launch ANY harder lol. Its the heaviest steel one that I know of.

chrismorales75

Most are .187 thick, there is one I saw before called "the Wheel" that I think was even heavier and thicker. Like 5 pounds over stock or something.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Have it happened a few times on BBC/SBCs, lot of things can cause it, converter runout, not enough pull-out on the converter or it bottoms in the crank hub, or just chinese **** with an SFI sticker..

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Pulled out of the pump right in the window they recommend, what do you mena by converte runout?

kp

iTrader: (34)

Say the three pads that bolt onto the flexplate arent even, anything that puts any kind of abnormal axial load on the flexplate is going to crack it eventually.

I assume the one that cracked is just the stock style SFI one, those are just copies of the OE flexplate made of thicker steel and have the ring gear welded on 360*. They tend to crack where they are stamped in the center to get the offset since thats the weakest spot.

If you broke something like a TCI most likely something is out alignment. If you are using a JW bell it will hit the rear cover bolts and the trans will not be flush with the back of the engine and will crack the flexplate. Same thing if you converter is ballooning badly, it tries to push the flexplate forward, either the converter will bottom in the crank and take out the thrust bearing or it will push the flexplate forward, after doing that a few hundred times things get a little weak.

All you can do is doublecheck everything and make sure its right, if it is try a different manufacture.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Ill check some of that stuff KP, and see if we can find something out.

GueSS Who

I had a TCI one com apart. I welded it together and continued to use it. I know have aluminum reatcor (much better peice)

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

you welded a broken flywheel back together? Your nuts.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

KP whereabouts would have have clearence issues on the bellhousing, I checked it as being flush on each side of the block, the rear cover sits to the inside of the bellhousing for the most part. Couldnt see anywhere it may have been contacting

kp

iTrader: (34)

Unless its a JW or other aftermarket bellhousing you shouldnt have any issues there, I had to grind quite a bit of the JW to get it clear 100%.

May I ask whose flexplate it was, just curious.

WMSuperSport

iTrader: (23)

How come the aftermarket bells don't clear? Are they made specifically for LSx?

JBM

iTrader: (15)

Reatcor part number? Thanks.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Ha, that never means a thing!

JBM I have it a the shop, email me and Ill get it in the morning.

Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

It hits the top 4 rear cover bolts, I got pics at home of where it needs to be clearanced. I'll try to remember to post them up when i get home. If your running a JW bell and it wasn't clearenced you could have some serious issues on your hands.

WMSuperSport, The JW bellhousing we are using is made for a Gen1 SBC thats why they don't clear. Some tranny shops like Rossler will clearance them for you for a fee.

Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

heres the pics of what needs clearencing.