drill mod help!
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Keller
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pointless dont waste ur time doing it. if ur clutch is sticking its ur slave. trust me ive been up and down this road several times the DRILL MOD IS worthless. while ur placing ur slave you mise well get a new clutch to.
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#10
That's what she said...
iTrader: (8)
He's talking about the brake fluid in the hydraulic clutch.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html
You need to get someone to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold, then crack the bleeder. Pump the clutch up, hold it to the floor, then crack bleeder again. Repeat this process a few times, checking the reservoir. When the reservoir gets really low, fill with fresh fluid and continue. You should do this until you're getting nice clean fluid squirting you in the face, then do it a few more times to make sure. It's impossible to do it by yourself unless you drill the floorboard, and expect to get pretty nasty doing it.
If you don't have an updated slave you'll need a 1/4" ratchet and an 8mm socket (I believe). If you have an updated slave, you'll need an 11mm socket. This will go on the bleeder directly above where the line plugs into the slave on the driver side of the trans.
I've done the drill mod on my old master, and my new master. Not sure if it helped or not, but it surely isn't going to HURT anything. I couldn't believe how small the hole is in the stock line, so I have a hard time believing it does not effect the fluid flow. Some people have reported it fixing their problems, some didn't have as much luck. If you're going to be clearing out nasty fluid anyway, I'd suggest you do it. It can be a son-of-a-bitch to get the master out of the car on your first try, but far from impossible. It's certainly easier than swapping the slave, and worth a shot. When you take the nuts off of the master inside the car, on the floorboard), there are some clips going around the studs sticking out. They will give you hell if you don't know they're there.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html
You need to get someone to push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold, then crack the bleeder. Pump the clutch up, hold it to the floor, then crack bleeder again. Repeat this process a few times, checking the reservoir. When the reservoir gets really low, fill with fresh fluid and continue. You should do this until you're getting nice clean fluid squirting you in the face, then do it a few more times to make sure. It's impossible to do it by yourself unless you drill the floorboard, and expect to get pretty nasty doing it.
If you don't have an updated slave you'll need a 1/4" ratchet and an 8mm socket (I believe). If you have an updated slave, you'll need an 11mm socket. This will go on the bleeder directly above where the line plugs into the slave on the driver side of the trans.
I've done the drill mod on my old master, and my new master. Not sure if it helped or not, but it surely isn't going to HURT anything. I couldn't believe how small the hole is in the stock line, so I have a hard time believing it does not effect the fluid flow. Some people have reported it fixing their problems, some didn't have as much luck. If you're going to be clearing out nasty fluid anyway, I'd suggest you do it. It can be a son-of-a-bitch to get the master out of the car on your first try, but far from impossible. It's certainly easier than swapping the slave, and worth a shot. When you take the nuts off of the master inside the car, on the floorboard), there are some clips going around the studs sticking out. They will give you hell if you don't know they're there.
#12
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Join Date: May 2007
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Yeah I think mine was a 7/8 socket. Bled mine lastnight.. Well my friend helped me, all I did was pour the fluid into the reservior lol. Does that mean that my slave cylinder has been replaced considering it's a 7/8?
#19