97ta383

iTrader: (5)

i have an 01 ss m6 and i wanted to know what kind of ***** power i could expect with a bolton procharger kit making 6 psi my car all ready has kooks long tubes, gmmg catback, spec clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, and a fast 90/90.

carado1984

Go with a d1sc not p1sc. Expect upper 400's and similar torque with a good tune. D1sc is more capable.. P1sc kit I'd guess 440-470

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

6psi with that setup will get you approx 450 rwhp or so. As state above get a D1SC package, preferrably from EPP.

97ta383

iTrader: (5)

will the bottem end be able to handle the supercharger?

JedWele

Depends on tune and how hard you drive it.(and luck) My honest opinion on that power range your on borrowed time. Some people get away for a little while some break in a couple months or less.

Authrom

From what I have read 500-550 rwhp is the magic number...

If your only shooting for high 400's you should be fine as long as you dont beat on it, but it will go eventually. What I plan to do is try some meth injection to keep the temps down as another safety precaution if you dunno what it is I would do a search..its good ****..

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

I cant imagine how the bottom end couldnt handle 450whp. Would prob want to upgrade the valvetrain though.

dochall22

iTrader: (6)

smack the charger on, rev it up and go, if she blows she blows, and if SHE blows, its always a good thing!!!

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Stock bottom end has shown to hold up to 8 PSI fairly reliably. 8 PSI would put you around 500 rwhp. Toss in a blower cam and some meth injection and your looking at 550 rwhp. Need a real good tuner though as without a good tune your shortblock could be toast. If you concerned though and only want around 450 rwhp then run approx 6psi with bolt ons and you will be where you want to be.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

This question is asked all the time. The quick answer is "No". Here's why; LS1, LT1, and LS2's for that matter were all made with non forged internals from the factory and a high CR. This is not what you want for a boosted car. I would say you could probably get away with running 6#'s of boost or less, and you'll probably hold up for a while as long as you do all the supporting mods like fuel system, intercooler, methanol injection, dyno tune ect. But even then you will not be making much more power with the boost levels that low and you will be out thousands on the supercharger, and thousands more on the supporting mods, so its not really cost effective. Even then, I doubt you see the same mileage you would see out of the car that you would see if you stayed N/A before a rebuild. Some guys try to run more boost on a stock bottom end, some even without all the supporting mods, and some will tell you that it is working fine. But every time they put the hammer down (even with a "safe" tune) they are rolling the dice on if the motor will go. And sooner or later their number will be up, and it will be time to look for a new motor. It might last 25,000 miles, it might last 2500 miles.

To go boosted the right way IMO, you need to build the motor for it. Spend the money it takes to get yourself some forged internals, drop the CR, and then put a blower capable of some boost like a D1SC, or even an F1. Then you can mash the gas, and fully utilize a boosted car and have the gobs of power I think you are looking for. And it will be reliable and should hold up for a very long time if kept in good shape. But you are talking a lot of money for the motor. You can save here and there and go with cheeper parts such as "Eagle" or "Summit", but it won't be as good as if you used parts like "Lunati" or "Oliver", even then you still need the supporting mods as mentioned earlier, and the blower, and have the car setup to take the power (rear end, tranny/clutch, ect.). And then if you plan on being able to actually use this power you need to do some extensive suspension work. All said and done to do it the "right" way IMO, you are looking at $14,000-$20,000 depending on the parts and how much you can do yourself.

If you are looking to put down 450-525 RWHP, the best way to go is just to stay N/A and get a killer heads, cam, and intake combo. This is much more cost effective and your motor will remain in tact. If you are still power thirsty, I would reccomend a small shot of nitrous. But even the juice can have its ill effect on non forged internals.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

your better off spending money on heads and cam to get more reliable n/a power.

what are your goals hp / tq wise 97ta383?

a full bolt on cammed ls1 can make 400+ hp
add heads and see lots more.

your probably making about 350 now, if u see a full 6 psi of boost I agree with that around 450 hp est.

properly tuned I dont see why it wouldnt last quite a bit, I would tune it extra conservative for longer life and keep those engine temps down for sure.

97ta383

iTrader: (5)

I wanted somewere around 400 to 450 rwhp but i wanted it reliable for everyday driving.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Trust me when I say, staying N/A is what you want then.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

6 pounds of boost will put you around 425 rwhp. 10 pounds of boost on a conservative tune will put you above the 500 rwhp. Any other questions feel free to PM me.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

And niether of those boost settings will give him any kind of reliability on the stock bottom end.

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Well my stock bottom end has been reliable after close to 3 years of 10 pounds of boost. Obviously adding boost or any type of performance parts to a car won't add reliability. We all know that!

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Yes but as stated extensivly in post #10, you are one of the lucky ones, and your time of running boost on the stock bottom end won't keep up forever as every time you go to WOT you are rolling the dice on "is this going to be the WOT run that my motor goes on?".

Non forged, high compression motors are just simply not meant to take boost, and they will not have the longavity of N/A cars.

In short, you can go with a VERY agressive heads, cam, intake combo, beat the snot out of it, and it will still hold up MUCH longer and more reliably than going boosted would on a stock motor.

This guy wants RELIABLE power. I am just trying to get it past him and others reading this thread pondering going boosted on a stock bottom end that there is no such thing as reliability when boosting a stock motor.

EvoWake

iTrader: (8)

911, don't be a chocotaco now... plenty of people have had loads of time out of their stock ls1 with a procharger kit running 8 psi or less.. here, EPP put a D1 on a ls1 with 110k miles on the clock, ran 7 psi for 16k miles.. no problems, just built it bigger after they had their 16 k of fun. It will handle it; If you beat the **** out of your car, then it won't handle it as well.

110k w/ D1SC

by the way my friend has your avatar tatoo'd on his back lol

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

You can keep your opinion, but the facts don't lie. There's no way you will last as long as you would if you would have built your motor for the boost, or stayed N/A.

JL8Jeff

iTrader: (14)

You can't hit WOT all the time on a stock engine and not expect it to breakdown. Boost will shorten the lifespan, but driving a car extremely hard will too. I put 45K miles on my old 93 Z28 with 5 lbs of boost and never had any problems. And that car had no custom tuning, just an off the shelf chip that was not programmed for boost. These engines will hold up, but if you beat on it then you're going to have problems boosted or not.