CarnivorWS.6-01

iTrader: (7)

Do I need to no anything about installing the rods/dowels (JPR) to hold lifters in place? What will work better to change the springs TDC or pressurize? Any and I mean any hints that can make this process flow I am open for. I am very good with a wrench but this is new territory and I'm not to proud to ask for advice. Thanks

hvyhttter

iTrader: (3)

definatley pressurize and rods is a insurance but Ive never used them. I did have a problem once with a higher mileage car the plastic lifter holders were worn

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

just follow this exactly and there will be no problemos: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

CarnivorWS.6-01

iTrader: (7)

I have it printed out and have read it numerous times. I am just looking for that real world exceptions. Ex. do the JPR tools just slide right in? Do I need to rotate the cam as I insert the JPR tool. That kinda stuff.
"Chance favors the prepared mind" quote from some wacko in a Segal movie.
Thanks

Vertigo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it slide right in or you can use a 5/8"?? wooden dowell which is cheaper! Also, I would wrap a rubber band around the valve stems just in case your not using the TDC approch. When i did it i used tdc, that way i didn't have to worry about dropping the valve. Those instructions are great!

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I've found that the JPR tool works on some engines, but not on others. In those cases I've used a 5/16 steel rod(not threaded). If the pistons are at TDC the valves can't drop very far while the springs are being changed. Compressed air does help, but sometimes the locks stick and when the springs are compressed the air escapes so be aware of that. You have to tap on the valve stem or retainer to shake the keepers loose so you can get the old springs off. Don't go to high on the air pressure or the engine can spin since the plugs are out. I fabricated a cam handle out of a piece of flat stock which I drilled holes in for the bolts and locator dowel and welded it to a long steel rod. I use it to remove the old cam and install the new one. It helps because the cam is ungainly because of the weight and length. Just take your time as you remove and install the cam as you're sliding the journals past the bearings. The handle I made helps keep the cam straight which you must do during this process.

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

I used the pressurized method at first and it was a pain in the *** to screw the fitting into to spark plug hole with the headers on. I switched to the tdc method and it was much faster.

CarnivorWS.6-01

iTrader: (7)

Good stuff guys you are all giving good points to me and others. I will be using TDC for changing the springs and I will use 5/16" rods instead of magnets. How do you know if the lifters are locked in place? How about changing the timing chain? I am upgrading to LS2 chain, any hints or whatch outs here?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You don't "know if the lifters are locked in place", but it's safe to assume if got get the tool fully home in the block the lifters can't fall while the cam is out. It's a lot of extra work to get one bolt out just so you can swap the timing chain. The extra work comes in dropping the pan which is required to get that one bolt out that holds the pickup tube flange in place at the input port of the oil pump. Unless you have the extra time needed you may regret changing the timing chain. If you engine is high mileage or very high horsepower that's different. If your going to a double row chain it's even more work because the pump has to be shimmed forward becasue of the added space the dual chain requires. In that case you can make it easier on yourself if you loosen the bracket bolt that holds the pump pickup tube in place. This allows you slide the tube slightly forward to make up for the thickness of the shims. Most people have trouble getting the pickup tube to go back into the pump input port after installing a double chain because they don't do this extra step. That's because the pump is now sitting 3mm forward on the block, but the tube is still in the same place. You have to convince the tube snout it's a good idea to go into uncharted territory and the tube snout doesn't like that idea at all. When you loosen up the bracket bolt and move the tube forward 3mm you avoid this problem. You have to drop the pan anyway just to get the flange bolt out so you might as well go ahead and move the tube forward while you're at it. It makes that last step so much easier while installing a double chain.

THE CHOP SHOP

iTrader: (7)

What I did to make sure all of the lifters were up was to throw the pushrods back in. I had bought 2 5/8th rods as well as 2 1/8th rods. I could not get one of the 5/8th's rods in so I assumed a lifter was not up. I slipped the p rods in and everything was level. So I put the 1/8th inch rod in the driverside and pulled the cam and put the new one in. After I pulled the rods and installed everything else the next day I still had to push the lifters down. I have 78k on my car.

CarnivorWS.6-01

iTrader: (7)

Any final thoughts or advice??????? If not Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes......

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

They have you covered. Sounds like you are ready. Let us know how it goes..