Used my stock Bose speakers/amps with Alpine HU
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Used my stock Bose speakers/amps with Alpine HU
Two years ago my stock Bose headunit freaked so we replaced it with an Alpine HU. We kept the stock Bose speakers with the amps and just used 10:1 reducers coming out of the headunit to the old bose amps and speakers and it worked just fine, no big deal.
Now I'm ready to go ahead and upgrade my speakers as well. My question is when I pull out the bose speakers and amps, should I re-wire from the headunit to the new speakers or just use the old wire that was there for the bose setup. Ofcourse I'll be removing the 10:1 reducers that I installed as well.
And is there any reason to install an Amp for my door and sail panel speakers since my headunit already has one "built in?" I'm not going for a crazy *** loud system, I just want it to sound decent.
And I'm installing a 1000 watt amp and a 10" sub in the rear that will be removable for some bass since I'll be losing my stock bose sub.
If it matters I'll be using Alpine speakers to replace my old bose ones, and my amp and sub will also be Alpine for a complete matching system.
I've done a search on all this and I didn't find anyone doing quite the same thing I'm doing here.
-Rick
Now I'm ready to go ahead and upgrade my speakers as well. My question is when I pull out the bose speakers and amps, should I re-wire from the headunit to the new speakers or just use the old wire that was there for the bose setup. Ofcourse I'll be removing the 10:1 reducers that I installed as well.
And is there any reason to install an Amp for my door and sail panel speakers since my headunit already has one "built in?" I'm not going for a crazy *** loud system, I just want it to sound decent.
And I'm installing a 1000 watt amp and a 10" sub in the rear that will be removable for some bass since I'll be losing my stock bose sub.
If it matters I'll be using Alpine speakers to replace my old bose ones, and my amp and sub will also be Alpine for a complete matching system.
I've done a search on all this and I didn't find anyone doing quite the same thing I'm doing here.
-Rick
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with a powerful sub it really helps to have your door speakers amplified, and not to mention the built in amp from your h/u sends way lower rms power to your speakers than an amp will. The biggest gain you get is speaker clarity b/c the amp will produce the power with a much lower distortion rating than your "built in" amp. IMO i'd say amp the speakers doesnt cost much more and the sound is 100x better. My last t/a I had a jl 250/1 powering my stealthbox jl10, and a jl300/4 powering polk/momo componets and it sounded amazing. Regardless of how high you turn it up it wouldnt break up. And if you decide to just use the h/u for power dont bother rewiring just hook them into to the factory harness and youll be good. Any specific reason why you wanna match everything?
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Actually, the stock wire won't work by itself. The Bose system uses common grounds for all speakers but Alpine (and almost all other systems) use floating ground. There are three wires going to each speaker: audio +, 12V+, and chassis ground. There is no ground wire returning to the head unit because the speaker and the amp shared a chassis ground. So you'll be short one wire at each speaker.