turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

I have a 98z28 with:
Hooker Long tubes
3 inch y-pipe
corsa exhaust
373 gears
160 termostat
Going to get a SLP lid and a 80mm TB
Also have a Hypertech programer 3

I have Boyd 17's with full weight car.

josh2002-ws6

iTrader: (98)

Is the car a M6 or A4. Being that your car is only a 98 and has the LS1 intake manifold, I would not waste the money on a new throttle body until you get a LS6 intake manifold or even a FAST 90/90 setup and if you go LS6 manifold I would just do a stock ported and polished throttle body. As for running 12's it is always possible. People have gone 12's with a completely stock car with only putting drag radials on.

SlayerMaro

iTrader: (3)

You should hit 12's if you're an A4. You have more mods than I did when I broke into the 12's. If you're an M6, I'd guess it will depend on your driving.

Zero4488

iTrader: (10)

You should be able to hit 12's depending on weather, track conditions, and driving....

turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

The car is a A4. Okay so no TB, so the LS6 intake flow more? Is the Fast 90/90 a intake ( sorry new to all this)?

Thanks

Omega Doom

iTrader: (2)

yea, you will hit 12's turbo! let me make it a little clearer for you? a LS6 intake is like a cobra/GT40 on a 5.0 motor and the fast 90/90 is like a Holley systemax II or edlebrock performer RPM II for the 5.0 cars! just save and get the fast 90/90 if possible with the Nick williams TB or if you get a good deal on a used LS6 intake have mike Hutto(beenfetched on dfwstangs) port the TB for ya! but remember the main thing is the damn stall! and don't buy a cheap piece of **** either!

josh2002-ws6

iTrader: (98)

Well I would only get the FAST 90 intake manifold and Nick Williams throttle body if you are going to go with heads and a cam. With the stock heads and cam or even stock heads and aftermarket cam the LS6 intake will be just fine. The 1998 to 2000 LS1 F-bodies came with the LS1 intake manifold and the 2001 and 2002 LS1 f-bodies came with the LS6 manifold. The LS6 manifold flows way better then the LS1 does. Now that knowing your car is a A4 You should go with a new Converter with a higher stall. How streetable do you want the car to be and how fast do you want to go at the track? For a nice streetable car I would not go any higher then a 3000 to 3200 stall.

turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys, yeah i'd like to keep it streetable. I have read alot of people using the tr224 cam.

josh2002-ws6

iTrader: (98)

If you want to stay streetable I would say a nice stall converter at about a 2600 stall to 3200 stall should be great for you and the TR224 is a very nice cam for street applications. The LS6 intake manifold with the stock ported and polished throttle body would most likely be your best bet with that cam and your stock heads. You might also wanna think of doing some suspension work to the car like, lower rear control arms, torque arm, subframe connectors, and maybe some nice adjustable shocks in the front. Spohn is a good place to find the suspension parts and QA1's are a good brand of adjustable shocks. The suspension parts sometimes get you the best results when at the track. A good suspension setup is need to make all of your power transfer and get good times with out spinning.

turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the help.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

You should hit 12s with any kind of traction. Those 224 cams are pretty streetable, and definitely get the LS6 intake.

Omega Doom

iTrader: (2)

my Yank 4000 stall is very streetable!

fastvet

iTrader: (2)

Hey Turbo, have you tooken the screen off of your Mass Air Flow Sensor. It pops right off and gives you that extra power. No lights come on or anything. On the Z28 you have, people cut the bottom plastic, thats in the air filter, just enough to get extra air into the engine. The Z guys also take off the front black plastic cover thats by where the license plate is and replace it with a grill. That pushes more air in through the bottom of the air filter.
Remember to lower the pressure on your street tires to about 16-18 psi. and take off at idle the first time your at the track, or else, depending on your tires, you will stay there spinning. Keep me posted!

turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

Didnt know about the screen cause I was going to buy a TB but alot of people say to port and polish the stock one. I can pick up a 80mm tb for a 100.00 so I ask if its a good deal or not? I dont have a lid at all right now just a K&N filter. I was going to get a billet grill for the front.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

get a lid, doesnt matter which brand, they should all cost around $100. look in the for sale section on here. You will hear arguments about de-screening the MAF, some say do it, others say dont. i say leave the screen on, if you wanna do without a screen then get an aftermarket MAF, so you can put your stock one back on if you dont like the other one.

im shooting for 12s with what i have in my sig. traction will be your biggest problem. you need to get down technique for feathering the throttle at launch. i am yet to launch on DRs, next time i race ill be on them so ill see.

josh2002-ws6

iTrader: (98)

WOW I am hopping you are joking.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

M^ can do 12's in stock form. A4 with your mods should easy.

ls1_doc

iTrader: (6)

Na they are not that bad. I have a 4400. But ya that looks like a low 13 high twelve second setup.

turbopaez

iTrader: (11)

I would think you can get a any size stall if you get a lockup one and be streetable.

Omega Doom

iTrader: (2)

LOL nope I'm dead serious!