Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

My friends and I installed my car audio, took about 20 hours and 2 days, we used high quality wiring, all that stuff, once we were finally done I was rocking out for about 6 months YEAH!!!

But then the lights started pulsing, whether or not I had the stereo on.

I got the Alpine PDX1.1000 sub amp and PDX4.150 component amp, one Alpine 1022D Type R sub and Infinity Kappa Perfect components in the front and the 6.5 mid bass speakers in the sail panels...

Anyway, I decided to go to a local audio store, they did a quick diagnostic, so they came back and said that I need to buy a new Optima yellowtop.

I said thanks, went to AutoZone and bought one.

Guess what???

it's still pulsing.

Now I'm thinking WTF??? what else could it be?

I called my friend Gonzo, sucker is a real life Macgyver!!!
Anyway, he told me to disconnect the power cable that goes from the battery to the amps/capacitor, and see what happens, if it stops then there's something going on with the wiring to the cap and then to the amps or speakers.

He also said if after I bypass my new system AND the lights are still pulsing AND Having the new yellowtop battery installed, then it's the alternator...

Guess what?

It's the alternator.

I don't want another factory one, I want to get am higher amp alternator. The reason why is that I bought another PDX1.1000 amp with the passenger stealthbox and another 10" Type R subwoofer, I want to make sure I have enough amps coming out of my new alternator to charge the battery while I'm thumpin down the street...

Any suggestions as to where I can get a higher end alternator?

Thanks peeps!!!

Carlos.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

High-Amp Alternators

lsheaven

yea........good ol gm charging systems........... try bumpin at a light at night with ur headlights on, rear defrost, and defroster on!

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Should I get the 180 amp or 220 amp alt?

I'm gonna be running 2 PDX-1.1000 wattsRMS@14.4V/2 ohms sub amps using two Alpine Type R subs 500wattRMS @2ohms and one PDX-4.150 amp running the component speakers.
I'm planning on running the amps @50% capacity, so not to blow the subs.

factory alternator hits what, 105 or 106 amps I think?

so 220 amps and a yellowtop Optima would work???

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i'd get the 220A alternator personally....that way, if you ever decide to use an underdrive pulley, you'll still have plenty of amperage for the electrical/stereo systems

pentavolvo

you deff need to do the big3 this will help a ton

my buddy had stock alt in his 97 TA with big 3 and an optima

we had 2 bp1200.1 (1200rms) sub amps, and a 60x4rms 4 channel, lights did dim a bit but for the amount of power it was minimal

we didnt have a cap either

dragonrage

Yeah, your wiring could be bum also. Upgrade that stuff just to make sure, and it'll help when you have a big system anyway.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Thanks you guys, and a BIG THANK YOU to pentavolvo for this GREAT link with regards to the big 3, although it's a Vette, I get the idea.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&postcount=59

redz_02

iTrader: (4)

Just get a Capacitor. Any time I run a sub amp around 1000watts I always wire at least a 1 farad cap to it. Check out www.wooofersetc.com or ebay, those are the two places I always look. This will save your electrical system. Just be carefull wireing it up, thing can drain in a few mili seconds. Made for quick easy power, but doesn't hold a charge for long once disconnected. Just make sure and run another fuse after it.

Carlos01SS

iTrader: (4)

Already got one, 3 farad.
bottomline if the alternator is fucked a cap won't do ****.
From what I've experienced a cap is just a temporary bandaid to the real problem.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

a cap may help a little, but it is definitely no long-term fix....in fact, it can actually help to exacerbate the problem by causing more draw on the alternator, further fuxoring it.

if you've got dimming lights and the extra cash, go ahead and get a cap if you want, but be sure to follow-up and do it right by getting a higher-output alternator that can actually handle the current draw that a powerful sub amp needs.

think of it the same way you would think about building an engine for a turbo.....sure, you can use stock internals and just turn down the boost to get a bit more longevity, but you're really just wasting potential, and the engine will still fail eventually anyway. go ahead and spend the extra $$$ to do it right the first time.

you gotta pay to play.....