LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I am going to have the trans in the Firehawk rebuilt this winter. The fork was bent in third gear when I bought it and it's only gotten worse. I figure while it's out I will put a better clutch in it. Modding time for it's just around the corner. Everything I have read about the LS7 clutch sounds good. I have read that it's heavier than stock though. I guess it could be a good thing because it's increases the rotating mass on take off but could eat some power up top.

Anyone know how much heavier it is than stock? I saw that Yella Terra has an ultra light flywheel thats 8 pounds lighter than stock. I remember another company having a lighter flyhweel but I thought it cost a lot more than the Yella Terra.

Should I worry about it or just put the LS7 clutch/flywheel combo in my car?

Thanks for any info.

Jason

robertbartsch

ls7 clutch has its own flywheel design.... not sure if any aftermarket flywheels will work so beware.

I would go with the ls2 factory gm flywheel if you want the ls7 clutch; works fine, holds lots of power.

See SDPC ---->

The think the extra weight is not a big issue and adds to the units' smoothness. the pp is very beefy...

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

To the best of my knowledge, YellaTerra does not have an LS2/7 style flywheel yet. The 9910 number they list is a standard LS1 replacement which again, is NOT compatible with the LS7 pressure plate and its mounting provisions.

We can however get you a Fidanza lightweight flywheel which will work. We keep them in stock too!

rsodeputy61

But just to reiterate his question, which do you recommend? I'd like to know this as well..... For a h/c ls1, which flywheel? I'm fixin to do some major modding and a new clutch and shifter is first on the list.

Benner

iTrader: (2)

I'm running the LS7/LS2 clutch/flywheel in my Formula and love it. It's got very good grip to it but still light enough for great streetability. My mods are in my sig

MPHmotorsports

iTrader: (18)

I am not Matt at SDPC but can answer this question for you maybe.
The Fidanza flywheel is alunimum and is very expensive in comparision to the LS7 flywheel.
I believe the flywheel is almost 400 dollars by its self.
And I have heard 100's of people who hate the aluminum when trying to launch out of the whole.
hope this helps.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

It looks like i will be staying with the LS7 setup. I am going with just bolt on's and maybe a cam. I will need a tune anyway, might as well throw a cam in it right?

Thanks for all the replies.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

You're very much correct on the $$ issues!!

And I agree, many dislike the lighteweight flywheels for street use....the extra weight makes for easier take offs without the bog....lightweight can be great when used in an fast revving setup like a road-race car that needs to move quickly out of corners. I'm a fan of the GM setup in most street/drag combos

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

Ok I will be making 475-500 range at the wheels once I finsih the car. I plan to to some serious racing with it, so I need a good clutch. I will also have likely an ET Street under it or a Drag Radial all the time since it isn't my daily. Knowing that would the LS7 clutch be a good investment for a H/C 402? I would like a clutch that will handle up to 550 whp. Right now the car makes 377/406 with MAC and the stock intake, TB, and MAF. Thanks

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Yea, people play too much Gran Turismo, lighter is not always better when it comes to flywheels.... RPM drop and raise quicker so in the end you will be burning up that clutch in no time.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

I'd go with more clutch. Call us and we can get you setup with a RAM or Textralia unit that is more suited for that power and abuse

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Here's my angle on this and please correct me if I'm off base.

I'm running street tires and maybe drag radials with a stock 10-bolt. I would think that I would want a slightly softer hit at the wheels so as not to break them loose. The lighter flywheel would help me get out of the hole a little easier I would think.

I rememeber reading an article in Hot Rod where they tested an older 5.0 mustang with drag radials and making ~350 rwhp. The best 60' they got with a stock, heavier flywheel was coming out of the hole at roughly 3500 rpm and ran a time of xx.xx @ 10x.xx mph. When they went to the lighter flywheel and launched at the same rpm, it bogged, had a slower et and 60', but a slightly better mph. They then progressed to raise the launch rpm up to 4200 and ran the same 60', but ended up trapping 1.5 mph quicker (which coincided with the gain at the dyno) and .1 quicker et.

Just my logic. As a street car on street tires, I don't mind hitting the tires a little softer but having a quicker revving motor.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Ive been in a car with a Aluminum flywheel and the big issue is it needs to be slipped and needs to be ridden out in order to have a smooth transistion. If the RPMs drop too quickly it will stress the clutch or you tach it up high and ride it out. Either method will kill clutch life and for people who have clutches like a Spec, they are DOOMED. A LS7 should fair alot better but then again, riding the clutch will kill it sooner.

Having a car that tends to bog will mask the real issue of traction and for some who cannot or do not want to swap to a beefier unit, its a bandaid.

Personally for me when I list certain criteria in clutch choice is.

1) Durability
2) Streetability
3) Holding power.

as long as it matches well with all im fine with it. I feel Aluminum flywheels will hurt #1 and #2 on the list, hence its not one of my choices.

skyhighsami

iTrader: (8)

Would a Center Force Dual Friction be ok with what I have in mind?

o2camaross

iTrader: (2)

I love my LS7 kit that i got from Scoggin Dickey's

Dwn Cam

It takes weight to move weight. Stay with a steel flywheel for the street. The stored energy and weight will help with a soft smooth engagement from a dead stop. I would use the 6912-07 RST twin from Mcleod with your stock flywheel. The RST will give you a nice light pedal and you'll be able to beat the snot out of your car. If you need a flywheel use 463530

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I'm not getting why you guys find it so hard to take off from a standstill with a clutch??? It's all about clutch modulation and feathering the gas. ****, I can put it is second gear and just barely slip the clutch and you'd never know it sitting in the passenger seat.

Maybe it's just me, but I don't have an issue with taking off. Granted I have a factory flywheel, but I'm not concerned about drag racing or how hard it is take off from a stop.

I would think having a higher gear ratio also helps with a smoother take off.

Can I use the YT light flywheel with a Mcleod single disc?

Dwn Cam

Sure as long as it has the Borg & Beck/Diaphragm Pattern drilled into the flywheel.

Eskimo

iTrader: (9)

I guess the 4.10 gears in mine make up for the "you have to slip it" with the alum. flywheel.. If I start in 2nd, I slip it about as much as a normal street car would to get going. First you just barely give it any throttle

I'm a cornering guy, so I absolutely LOVE the lightened flywheel.. make blipping for downshifts that much faster, you just gotta be quick on the stick..

Guess I'm just going against the grain on this one..

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I'm right there with you Eskimo. I'm thinking that I may pick up a lighter flywheel once I put the lift in the garage. If I don't like it, I can always pull it and sell it.