badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

well i was removing my rockers and pushrods to see if any were bent. they werent. so i was putting them back in. somehow i stripped the rear driver side rocker arm bolt hole so i was gonna put a heli coil in it, but i cant drill it out. so i have to take the head off. and the furthest i have ever been into my engine was pulling the pushrods and i was pretty proud of myself. so needless to say, im pretty new at going into the engine. i got onto ls1howto.com and it said how to pull the heads. so i was going to see if this is what i should do and if so do yall have any tips for me. my brother was trying to tap the whole and i forgot to take the rocker arm pedestal out and it got snapped, so i need another one of those. anyone have any clue how much they cost. thanks for your help in advance folks

RZRSEDGE

iTrader: (21)

Yeah, it's pretty well wrote out on there. Just take your time and clean everything really well. The pedestals are probably a dime a dozen, just post up in the wanted section. Good luck!

rickyracer25

iTrader: (11)

it really isn't to bad to take the heads off, just go slow and do what he said^^^^^^^

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

Oooh, that sucks man. I ran into a similar problem, had a header bolt break off in the head and couldn't get to it w/ a drill. What I ended up doing was dropping the K member to extract it. That A)saved me from having to buy new gaskets and head bolts and B)saved me time because I would had to wait for them to be shipped before I could put it all back on. Dropped the k-member and motor, extracted the broken bolts, retapped the heads and had everything back in and the car running by midnight.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

well it said that i needed new head bolts, but i thought that was just for a head swap. if im putting the stock heads back on do i really need new head bolts. i know i need new gaskets, but i thought that was it.

RZRSEDGE

iTrader: (21)

No, head bolts are a must do because they are torque to yield. Meaning they stretch as they are torqued.

socmguy

iTrader: (18)

Drop the motor down a little so you can get to it with a 90* drill and some counter clockwise drill bits. either retap or put a helicoil in there and be done with it. It may save you the *** pain of prepping the block and hoping you did everything right.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Simular to my recomendation also. I've done it in the car used a shop vac to vacum all I could and went down the road.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

well i am in the process of taking off my driver side head and i just got the intake and header off. when i took the intake off, it looked nasty in there. so here are some pics. does this look normal, and is something missing from the valley cover. like coolant lines or something. this looks nasty and not normal. i can fix the nasty part, im going to clean it up with some break cleaner and tape up the intake on the heads so nothing gets in there. year and and model are in my sig. thanks.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

mine was pretty dirty too when i had that stuff off,,,hell my valley looked green-ish for some funky reason.

1970judge

iTrader: (12)

PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!! Make sure you get all liquid out of the bolt holes when re-installing. If you need ANY help give me a call @ 817-503-8947

-Marcus

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

well thanks for the help man. im goin off of ls1howto.com, and thats what they said. but i may end up giving you a call in the next day or to when i put it back on. but what about the heads and valley cover, i mean does all that stuff look normal. i thought there were some cooloant lines that were supposed to run across the valley cover.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

woohooo. i got my head off. now all i have to do is drill and tap it. how can you check and see if you have a bad lifter. cuz im right here, so i might as well. cuz i really think i have a lifter tapping. now i might be calling you when i put the heads on marcus, so be ready. haha. thanks again for the info.

1970judge

iTrader: (12)

Dude, no problem at all. Me and Alan Will always be here, as well as anyone in the back. Everything is pretty straight forward, bolt holes are a big deal. As well, the bolts are torque to yield. You need a new set of bolts from GM or this is a great time to upgrade to ARP bolts. I have those on the shelf. Regardless im always by the phone from 9am-6pm.

-Marcus

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

i'd pull those little rubber boots off the top of your knock sensors and see what kinda shape they are in... they are known to rust like crazy sometimes and fail... i covered mine with silicon gasket maker...

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

so since i have my head off, is there anything that i should do since they are off. besides putting in a cam and or new heads, cuz im broke. haha. but anything else that would help. thanks

1970judge

iTrader: (12)

Other than get new bolts, id take the time to clean up the parts. Perfect chance to make your engine bay presentable.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

yeah, im already cleaning my valve covers to paint them a gloss black. and about the knock sensors. i read on how to take them off, but since they are held on by black tape, do i need to put some more tape on the wire and does it matter what kind. and is it normal for the pistons and valves to feel realy rough, like black sand paper.

1970judge

iTrader: (12)

Being the motor has some miles on it that sounds normal. Keep in mind temperatures inside there get on up there so yes its normal.