how hard to change rear end seal?
01-02-2008, 12:46 PM
#1
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how hard to change rear end seal? My 92 camaro is leaking from pinion seal and alot of ppl told me its easy job but the others told me its a lil bit hard to do,I got a brand new seal and I was thinking of changing it at home but whats the steps? drop the drive shaft open the yoke bolt and take off the seal? can someone explain how to change the seal because I really need to take the car to traffic department before jan 15th
01-02-2008, 03:36 PM
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ok we did this on my moms 97 suberben, we took out the driveshaft, then there is a very big jamnut that needs to be removed, u have to hold the yoke with a monkey wrench or get the right tool, after the nut is removed the yoke would be stuck in there so u will need to pry it out! we tried a pully puller but it dident work, this is the hardest part of the job, it may tak an hour to tak it out but have patience, after the yoke is removed pull the seal out with a picking tool or something. after all that is done its all down hill just press in the new seal with the same diameter socket!, we used a new jam nut with some antiseize and we had to go out and rent the socket for the nut because it is a very big size, goodluck
01-02-2008, 04:43 PM
#3
A few things I've learned through the years.
Do not hammer the yoke off, it can pit the bearings and cause failure, use a puller, you can usually use a harmonic balancer puller and two bolts depending on the brand of puller. Or use a claw type puller.
Use brake cleaner and a small brush to clean the splines on the pinion and yoke, the OD of the seal and where the seal goes into the housing.
Apply a small amount of red loctite around the seal OD this WILL keep it from weeping oil, and put some grease on the seal ID. Install it in the housing.
Use a sealer on the yoke splines, I prefer ARP thread sealer but anything seems to work, usually silicone would be my next choice.
Use brake cleaner to clean the threads of the pinion, and the threads of the nut and apply some red loctite.
Tighten the nut very slow, you don't want to crush the crush collar any more than what it already is.
Tighten it up until it takes about 10 inch pounds to turn the yoke using a dial type inch pound torque wrench. 10 inch pounds may seem like more than it calls for but you are turing the differential and axles. The pinion preload is supposed to be measured with the carrier out, turning only the pinion.
Take a block of wood and a big hammer to drive the pinion rearward to be sure the front bearing isn't stuck to the pinion, and then remeasure the preload.
This is different than hammering the yoke off because the bearing cone is now tight in the bearing cup.
If you're careful enough this will work, the correct way to do this is to disassemble the whole rear just so you can replace the crush collar.
Do not hammer the yoke off, it can pit the bearings and cause failure, use a puller, you can usually use a harmonic balancer puller and two bolts depending on the brand of puller. Or use a claw type puller.
Use brake cleaner and a small brush to clean the splines on the pinion and yoke, the OD of the seal and where the seal goes into the housing.
Apply a small amount of red loctite around the seal OD this WILL keep it from weeping oil, and put some grease on the seal ID. Install it in the housing.
Use a sealer on the yoke splines, I prefer ARP thread sealer but anything seems to work, usually silicone would be my next choice.
Use brake cleaner to clean the threads of the pinion, and the threads of the nut and apply some red loctite.
Tighten the nut very slow, you don't want to crush the crush collar any more than what it already is.
Tighten it up until it takes about 10 inch pounds to turn the yoke using a dial type inch pound torque wrench. 10 inch pounds may seem like more than it calls for but you are turing the differential and axles. The pinion preload is supposed to be measured with the carrier out, turning only the pinion.
Take a block of wood and a big hammer to drive the pinion rearward to be sure the front bearing isn't stuck to the pinion, and then remeasure the preload.
This is different than hammering the yoke off because the bearing cone is now tight in the bearing cup.
If you're careful enough this will work, the correct way to do this is to disassemble the whole rear just so you can replace the crush collar.
01-02-2008, 07:47 PM
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thnx alot guys I just want to replace the seal temporary just to take the car for regist. and insurance Im saving some money for a whole package from jegs a 3.73 with all bearings crush sleeve everything with the package
01-02-2008, 11:25 PM
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If the seal is leaking now and you attempt to replace as suggested in this thread you will have bearing noise in less than a month due to inproper preload on pinion bearings. Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward you a Installation Instruction manual.
Jeff
Jeff
01-02-2008, 11:41 PM
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If the seal is leaking now and you attempt to replace as suggested in this thread you will have bearing noise in less than a month due to inproper preload on pinion bearings. Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward you a Installation Instruction manual.
Jeff
Jeff
01-03-2008, 11:29 AM
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In that case just slap the seal in, don't waste your time. Why are you changing if you are not going to be driving though???
Jeff
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01-03-2008, 01:49 PM
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our traffic departemnt are as$ holes they need to see the car running 100% so I cant drive the car now and the rear end got zero oil I will just replace it for small period of time then I will order a complete package I just need to get the car registed and insured
