Lumpy

Is surging from 400-1,500 rpm every time I come to a stop, sometimes it will jump up and down a few times and settle into a perfect idle, sometimes it will not settle, sometimes it will stall. Also, at part throttle cruising at around 40mph it seems jerky like it's missing, when I increase throttle it goes away.
It's better when the A/C is on "max", but it still surges most of the time.

I did the idle re-learn procedure, it seems to cure it perfectly, but only for a little while, like half the day, then it starts again. I tried it 4 times.

I even took the PCM BATT fuse out for more than 30 minutes, put it back and did the procedure again, nothing works.

This started the second the car was started after the new plugs and wires went on. No mods were added, nothing else was touched.

I put Taylor Thunderbolt 50 ohm wires on and TR6 plugs gapped to .45

Where the heck are these vacuum hoses I keep hearing about? I can't find anything to check to see if I knocked one off or something.

I'm gonna try putting all the old wires back on to see if clears up.

Thanks

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I used the TR6 plugs but at .38 not 45, that was too wide for N2O application which is the only good reason to use those plugs!!!

Also, check all the wires on both ends to make sure they are "clicked" onto coils and plugs. Bet the #6 and 8 are not on all the way. Thats what mine did too.

The only vacuum i know is on the rear of the drvr side, where the AIR tubes meet the vacuum modulated diaphram.

Good-luck, please post back results of findings.

Charlie.

Lumpy

Thanks man, but which plugs are #6 and 8. Sorry, I'm a rookie.

When I look on the drivers side back by the firewall I see a black plastic hose that looks like a T, both ends of the T are open with nothing connected to it. Do you know what that is? I can't see anything that may have fallen off. If something did fall off, then it has to be 2 hoses.

Also, I'm not using nitrous. I was told these plugs would be fine. I have 11.5:1 compression and it's a stroker motor.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

6 and 8, second to last and last 2 on pass. side. Yep the biatch ones.
I would have went with a iridium plug. Even so, the plug is gapped a little wide I bet for N2O or that high a compression and stroker. Theres a rule, like every 100hp increase, go down one heat range colder, and then close the gap like .06 oor something.
The T, is it about palm size, for the AIR tubing maybe. If not then not sure.

Lumpy

Well, I have about 500 RWHP, N/A. You know what, I actually have them gapped at .45, oops. Hows that for that hp level, and NO nitrous use at all?

The T is about palm size, each opening on both ends of the T are about 1/2" in diameter. I grabbed it today while the motor was idling and plugged the holes with my finger tips and nothing at all happened.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Close the gap some, and when you pull the wires off, feel to make sure they were fully locked on. Like I said, my #8 looked like it was on, and it actually clicked when installed, but not all the way. When I installed headers, i found the wire had popped off the tip of the plug, resting on it and at idle it would act up, but accel i guess threw enough spark to keep her firing.

Mekkadon

iTrader: (3)

I think a half inch gap on TR6's are too wide

984mula

I am seriously having the exact same problem! just posted a new post about it, im in the same dilemma.

Lumpy

I'm going down to check all my wires right now. Hope it's just that easy.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Mekkadon, yeah...... .045 got it. neway still too wide, more like .038 or so.

canadian z28

make sure you didn't crack a plug. If the porcelan wiggles even alittle, it's usually cracked. And also check that the wires are on too. I used iridium at 0.60" and it runs perfect.

Lumpy

How about a bad coil pack, will that give me my symptoms?
Or does it just completely die 100% when they go. Can they partially work, especially at higher RPM's?

All the wires are on good.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

This coil is either good or bad. Any codes? If you don't have a scantool Azone will do it for free. The only coil I have seen "partially" work was inside of a quad actuator (electrically/hydrualic-not unlike the 4l60e)in a F/A-18 Hornet where the in flight operating temp (Mucho HOt) could not be simulated on the ground; heat of the hydraulic fluid would actually cause the strands of metal in the coil to expand, "opening" up the coil. And when the plane returned you could put a meter on it and watch the resistance come down with the temp.

Lumpy

Guess I'll go by AZone tomorrow. I haven't gotten one SES light. I can't believe it either because the motor shutters and stalls at almost every light, sounds like it's falling apart when it misses.

I've flown a couple fighter jets , never heard of that, but than again I'm just a pilot, not an A&P.

kdubb

How about your intake, especially a leak after the MAF. I don't know what it looks like under your hood, maybe you leaned on some of the intake ducting and opened up a leak. Sure sounds like an engine that is very lean.

kw

Lumpy

Some mechanic just checked my motor out. He said I have
a blown head gasket because he can smell exhaust fuel on the
drivers side of the motor. I've also been using a ton of gas since this idle thing started. Also, now that he mentioned that, my coolant has gone low a few times in the past month.
Could a blown head gasket cause the idle problem? He scanned it and there were no codes.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, loss of compression, and vacuum etc....Damn man, sorry to hear that.

Build it bigger and better, Good-luck.

Lumpy

Well, I guess it's going back to the company who built it, it's only 4 months old.